Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Opening the refrigerator door past half caused a loud thump.
Before removing door, remove everything from on the door including the shelves, then close the door. Using a step ladder to access the top of the door, I removed the plastic hinge cover at the top of the refrigerator door using a Philips head screwdriver, remove the screw located at the back of the cover and slide the cover forward and up to remove. This will expose the two 3/8 machine screws that hold the top hinge bracket. Remove the screws using a socket or wrench. Then lift up on the hinge bracket from the top of the door to remove it. As long as the door is closed it will remain stable with little pressure to keep from falling. Then lift the entire door from the bottom hinge assembly and lay it across an arm chair or flat elevated surface so you can access the bottom door hinge bearing. You will see a bracket screwed to the bottom of the door with two 1/4 machine screws, it is the door stop bracket and this has the door hinge bearing inserted through it. My bearing was broke in half , the first piece fell out when I removed the door and the other piece was still inserted in the door. I removed one 1/4 screw from the stop bracket and loosened the other screw to allow the bracket to swing away from cavity that holds the bearing. Using needle nose pliers I remover the broken piece of the bearing. This part is nylon or plastic and can be cut into pieces if need be to remove it. Once removed, I cleaned the cavity, reinstalled the stop bracket assembly then inserted the new bearing. Gently align the door to the bottom bracket and set it in place, a second set of eyes may help. Once the door has been seated and in the closed position replace door bracket and the two 3/8 screws at the top of the door, check the alignment before you tighten. Check door operation! Then tighten the screws and replace the plastic cover by pressing down on the cover and sliding it back to align the Philips screw to be replaced .
Real simple repair..just backed off the two 1/4" hex bolts holding the ice maker to the wall of the fridge,(a little tricky since you can't see them),unclipped the electrical doo hickey. I re-clipped the electrical do hickey of the new ice maker, hung the ice maker on the bolts and then re-tightened them. However,still no ice,my problem was the water valve on the back of the fridge behind the cardboard. Although it was still giving H2O thru the door it was not allowing water to flow to the ice maker. I reccommend pouring some water into the ice tray of the ice maker. If it makes ice and dumps it in to the holder, your ice maker is OK. If it turns out to be your water valve, that fix is easy as well. I HIGHLY reccommend watching the "fix it" video associated with that part. That repair also took less than 15 minutes. Good Luck! KC Bridgewater,NJ
Put on new shelf in seconds. What a wonderful way to be able to purchase the perfect part easily through the internet. I ordered the part on Sunday and received it on Tuesday. THANK YOU Parts Select!!! K.F.
Had to reach right hand to top of ice maker to locate hex head screws by feel, then place nut driver onto hex head by feel and then unloosen screws with lft hand ,a couple of turns, enough to lift ice maker off screws. Replace new icemaker onto screws and tighten screws. The only problem incountered was the location and availability of having to feel with both hands to fit nut driver onto the screws.(could not see with my eyes because front of ice maker blocked view. )
Door had a "hitch" which made a sound when the door was opened.
I emptied the door of food, removed the top hinge by removing two screws. I then lifted the door off the lower hinge. The teflon hinge was just sitting in the bottom bearing. I removed the broken one and replaced it with the new bearing hinge. I didn't need the door stop. I then put the door back on the bottom bearing hinge and returned the top hinge. After replacing the food, the job was done and the "catch" and noise were gone! Success!
I slid out the tray in the ice/water area and exposed the 3 screws to remove the unit/panel. I then had to unplug the electrical connection and work the panel around to where I could get to the 2 screws that hold the actuator in place. The water tube holds the panel tight making it difficult to access these two screws but I was able to complete the job in about 15 minutes.
After disassembling, the thermal fuse I ordered were not and exact fit, I had to cut off the ring terminals, strip the insulation back and splice it in. It works.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
3 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Defrost terminator (Thermostat) Was Stuck Open, Not Allowing Defrost, Heat Gun or Hair Dryer
PURCHASE: Buy the terminator from the site because they sell the terminator (thermostat) separately. Other places have it with the wiring harness for more money. Changing it with the harness attached is a very, very involved project. It includes removing the entire inner liner of the freezer. The one the site sells requires only a simple crimp splice and shrink tube.
TEST- If you have another freezer, ice or a friend's freezer available, it is highly recommended that the new part be tested: You will need an Ohm meter or a continuity tester. You can make one very easily per instructions found on line. TEST RESULTS- a) At room temperature. An Ohm meter should show "Open". b) After being in a freezer or submerged in ice water for at least an hour, the Ohm meter should show "Closed".
I have installed hundreds of defrost thermostats. Very occasionally one is defective. This project is a bit involved, so it is wise to pre-test.
HOW TO INSTALL THE DEFROST TERMINATOR (THERMOSTAT): A) Prep Remove Food & Be sure the freezer is warm. Parts need to be pried upon & cold plastic breaks easily. Tip: Put the screws in separate cups with labels. This will make re-installing the many components easier. Gather tools from the attached list.
B) Unplug Unit (Turning it off is not sufficient protection against shock.)
C) Remove Light Bulb (If it gets broken while working, glass may get in the eyes.)
D) Remove Drawers (This is a bottom freezer unit with 2 drawers) 1) ) Upper Drawer: a) Locate the 2 rectangular boxes covering the gears. They are on each side, toward the rear of the drawer. b) With a nylon spudger, push in the 2 clips on each box and lift the boxes 1/4". They will stop at 1/4". c) At the front of each track, remove 2 hex head screws with a 5/15" nut driver or a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver. d) Lift the front of the drawer a small amount while pulling drawer. Lifting allows the 2 stops on the drawer to clear the track tabs. e) When near the end of the drawer, lift the gear wheels slightly to clear the track. f) Put the drawer out of the way.
2) Lower Drawer With Front Door *Leaving the door attached makes it easier to align the drawer when reinstalling it later. It must be straight or the gasket will gap. a) Put a thick towel on the floor, in front of the unit, so the door can be laid upon in without scratching the handle or the floor. b) Pull the drawer out and look at each track about 2/3 of the way to the back of the freezer. You will see two long, white tabs. c) Push a tab in while pulling the track slightly forward. Firm pulling is required. Repeat on the other side. d) Drag the towel and door out of the way
D) Remove the air grill at the top, rear of the freezer. 1) There is a clip in the center to push with a spudger. It is easy to see in a photo of a replacement fan bracket. 2) On the right side, in the top row of square holes, is another clip to press with a spudger while pulling that side of the grill out. 3) On the left, there is an air chute blocking the clip. It can not be removed. With the right side pulled free, gently wiggle & pull the left side until the clip clears & the grill is free to leave.
E) Remove the Ice Maker (Water does not have to be turned off) 1) Loosen, but do not remove, 2 screws above the ice mold. 2) Remove the one lower screw & put it aside. 3) Lift the ice maker & store it out of the way. 4) Do Not turn any wheels by hand, nor bend the bail wire.
F) Remove the Thermistor Cover (Upper Right Back Wall) 1) Gently squeeze the sides while pulling. Stop as soon as it's free. 2) Note how the thermistor & wires are installed in the cover & thread the thermistor free. 3) Set the cover aside.
G) Remove The back Wall 1) Remove all visible hex head screws. 2) The back wall can now be removed. 3) Set it aside where it will not scratch any surfaces, as the edges are a little sharp
H) De-Ice the evaporator with a heat gun or hair dryer. Don't hold the heat source in one spot for long or wire insulation or plastic components will be damaged.
I) Note the permanent ice ball in the upper-right corner. The defrost thermostat is under this ball. Melt it with heat.
J) Install The New Thermostat Hint- Take the thermostat to a hardware store to buy the correct size shrink tube and crimp sleeves (butt connectors)
