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Dryer work but wouldn’t shut off when finished cycle, had to shutoff from breaker
With a thin flat screwdriver I was able to pry out the old door switch, I replaced it with the new door switch, pushed back in dryer and so far is working since I installed a month ago.
An appliance repairman determined the problem which was that it needed new pulleys and thankfully PartSelect carried them. He installed them in an hour and my dryer runs fine now.
I replaced the thermistor, then the gas ignitor which were easy to get to once the drum was out. The gas is still not igniting so not sure where to go from here. Putting the drum belt back on took some muscle. But then I'm 71.
Noticed small tear in hose bellows and leak during reassembly
I already had the top of the washer open, from previous disassembly to clean the front loader seal, and when I ran a trial load, noticed a small 1/4" tear in the hose bellows that attaches to the drum.
Very simple repair, remove the existing hose by loosening the clamps, paying attention to their orientation. Install the existing hose clamps onto the new hose, install and tighten the hose clamps.
5 minute job, if the washer top is off (which is also simple).
I assumed this was a belt problem. Ordered the belt and followed the excellent screw by screw instructional YouTube provided by PartSelect. In fact, I probably would not have attempted the repair, until I watched the video and was reassured that I could do it. When I got the front panel off, the problem was obvious. There was a dishrag stuck in the blower. Didn't need the belt, but the video was sure worth the price of the part (~$17). Mr. Appliance charges $109 to DIAGNOSE the problem! This was way easier than dealing with them, especially during a pandemic near the holidays.
I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.
Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.
Called LG on the phone and they gave the button presses for diagnostics, which then gave the HST code, saying the Humidity sensor was bad. The part was described as the Humidity sensor module. Actually it's just the wire leads for the sensor which must be electronic and only accessible by disassembling the dryer. There were descriptions about cleaning the wires, perhaps because some people use dryer sheets which cause a buildup on the wires and prevent them from doing their job. I use wool balls and have no buildup on my wires and replacing them did not fix the sensor, because the module accessible inside the dryer is not the moisture sensor, but only the wire leads.
Repair was easy, but the part does not come with directions. It is pretty self explanatory if you are used to taking things apart and fixing them. Otherwise there are YouTube videos you can pull up. Dryer runs like it is new again though and it was way cheaper than buying a new dryer.
FIRST REMOVED THE LID ON TOP OF DRYER.THEN THE CONTROL PANEL AND THE STEAM TRAY. HAVE TO UNCLIP TWO HARNEST CONNECTORS. REMOVED THE FACE PLATE THAT HOLDS THE DRYER WALLS TOGETHER ALSO REMOVE TO SENSOR HARNESS CLIPS. .REMOVED THE BELT FROM MOTOR. TOOK DRUM OUT . UNCLIPPED MOTOR COLLAR SNAP CLIPS DISCONNECT THE MOTOR HARNESS. INSTALL NE MOTOR AND CONNECT HARNESS INSTALL CLIP . REINSTALL DRUM AND PUT BELT ON. CONNECT HANESSES AND INSTALL FACE PLATE. INSTALL CONTROL PANEL AND THE TOP LID.
