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Washer wasn't filling with cold water.
I think finding the tools to do the repair took longer than the actual repair!
After unplugging the machine, turning off the water and disconnecting the hoses~ All I had to do was remove the top front panel~ I think that was 3 screws; remove the old part~ 2 screws, disconnecting a hose, and unplugging the 2 connections; put in the new part~ reconnecting the hose, 2 screws, plugging in the two connections; put the front panel back on~ 3 screws; reconnect the hoses, turn the water back on, plug the machine back in then tested it and it worked perfectly!
When the kids got home from school and I told them I fixed it they high fived me and said, "Way to go Mom!"
Motor making clicking sound in low speed. Bearings bad.
First I unplugged the washer from the wall and then I removed the front panel with a putty knife. I slid the putty knife in between the front panel and top of the washer to disengage the two clips (see parts diagram on Partselect.com). Then I removed the four nuts holding the motor. I then removed the motor and old belt. I installed the new motor and new belt and tightened the four nuts ensuring proper belt tension. The new motor included a new wiring harness and capacitor. The wiring harness installation instructions were easy to follow. Besure to read the all the instructions first before beginning to cut the old harness. Once the wiring harness was installed, the machined worked just like new. I did not need the Retaining Clip for Clutch since the new motor and clutch kit come as one assembly and there is no longer an actual clutch. The two-speed motor just has a pulley for the belt.
Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.
Valve was dripping cold water when washing machine was not running.
Took 4 screws off of face plate, exposed valve, unplugged power supply, removed wire harnesses to hot cold valves, removed hot and cold water hoses from back of washing machine, removed two screws holding valve body to washer,put new valve in and reversed procedure. ta da!!!!!!!!!!
Repaired Agitator - required to pull from the bottom pulling on one side a little more then the other. Once you got loose it comes right off. Under neith there is a bolt that holds on agitator coupler. remove the bolt with wrench or socket wrench and then the agaitator coupler. Replace with new agitator coupler ,make sure grooves are aligned when putting on the rotor. Tap the top of the agitator coupler lightly until it is completely seated. Put the bolt on with wrench or socket wrench. Put the agitator back on over the agitator coupler and agin make sure grooves are alighned and push down until it feels it is seated. When done, give it a light pull to make sure it is secure and then you are done.
Removed washer to garage (after water was pumped out by the washing machines pump). Tipped it over to access bottom of machine and removed about 8-10 nut machine screws. Slipped new clutch on and used old retaining clip (new one was too difficult to get on). Loosened motor mounts on the drive motor and slipped on belt. Positioned the motor to put a good amount of tension on the belt and tightened motor mounts in a star pattern. Works great, even with heavy loads (like jeans). Easy easy.
followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut
Actually putting on a knob is self-explanatory. But wanted to say your company had the best price and reaction (delivery time). Great job by PartSelect!
First I removed the agitator with a belt. Then I removed the nut with a wrench. The Agitator coupli was smooth on the inside so I knew that was the problem. I got the new part, slid it into place. Tightened the new bolt and replaced the Agitator component with a quick push downwards. Easy!
The pully attached to the bottom of the Clutch (all one piece) broke apart.
I loosened the 4 screws that hold the motor and clutch in place. Removed the motor and clutch and turned upside down. Removed the retaining clip. Pulled the old clutch off (does not come off very easy). Stuck the new clutch on and replaced the retaining clip. Slapped it back into the machine.
We couldnt figure out why our clothes werent getting clean until I took the door magnet off and placed it on the sensor so we could watch the washing machine while it was operating with the lid open. The agitator was not moving at all. I put a rope through the fins of the agitator on 2 sides, and using a board for leverage, it popped right off. I used a socket to remove the coupler screw and put on the new parts. Washer works great now. A very easy repair.
Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.
Old belt wore out and stretched, wasn't driving tub through spin cycle.
I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.
I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.