Valve stem broke off the right control burner valve so the knob for burner could not go on the stem to light the burner.
I first shut off gas to stove and unplugged the stove. I then opened the oven door and used a phillips screw driver to remove the three screws under the cover plate that sits behind the gas control knobs . I then removed the cover plate. I then took off the grates on stove top and proceeded to remove the two screws on each burner head with a phililps screwdriver. Some where tight so I used a drill driver on low speed to turn the screws out. After removing the burner heads I had to remove two screws on each corner in the front under the cook top of the stove to remove the cook top off the stove. But before that I had to release the two wires from a clip under the cook top for the ignitor switches before I could lift the cook top off the stove. These should be on the right hand side. Now I had access to remove the burner valve that had the broken stem that the knob is attached too. For this I used adjustable wrench to remove the nut for the gas tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve. Then I had to release the ignitor switch by pulling it off the control valve stem or gently pry it off with a flat head screw driver. Then used 1/4 in socket wrench to remove the top bolt to release the old burner valve off the gas plenum where all the burner valves are attached too. Then pull the old control valve off from underneath the gas plenum. Then i put in the new burner valve making sure it had a rubber seal around it where it goes up through the hole underneath the gas plenum. Then while holding control valve in place put the screw back in the top of the gas plenum through the other hole on top of the gas plenum and screw it in the burner valve making sure it also has a seal under the bottom of head of the bolt that you are screwing in to the control valve. This is so that no gas can leak from the plenum where the control valve is attached to. The control valve threads should be lined up with the bolt since both holes on the bottom and top of the gas rail (plenum) are lined up Use a 1/4 in socket to tighten down the bolt with the seal but don't over tighten. Then reattach the tube that goes from the burner head to the control valve with adjustable wrench and make sure not to over tighten. Then grab the stove cook top that you took off and replace it back on top of stove.After in place make sure to put those two wires back into clip that is under the cook top so wires are not touching the oven. You have to put part of your arm under the cook top and use your hand to try to push the wires back into the clip that's under the stove top. These wires will be on the right hand side. This is kinds tricky to do. Then tighten cook top back down with two screws and reattach the ignitor switch back through the valve stem of new control valve . It should clip in around the valve stem. Then reattach the cover plate over the valves stems with the remaining three screws and attach the control knobs.
Turned off power to range. Removed the lower panel that was secured by two screws, as well as the metal cover beneath it also secured by screws.. Removed the two screws securing the igniter, and pulled apart the black tubing that secured the igniter. (I had to pull hard to get it apart). Plug the new end into that same black tubing. screw in the two screws to secure the new igniter (this is tricky because one screw is hard to reach) I laid something in the base to cover the holes so I wouldn't lose a screw if it dropped. Screw metal panel back in, followed by the lower oven panel.
Very hard to close the door range, especially one way and it sticks to close.
First, view videos to know what is an active door range problem. Second, when you know the problem, see videos on you tube and be sure you will replace the right part Third, I go to Part Select, see reference video for your problem if you need and buy the part on line, good price, very quick delivery.
Compressor would not shut off at the maximum recommended pressure (150psi)
Removed face plate (4 screws). Removed 2 screws holding manifold in place. Detached wires from the switch. No need to mark them - they don't have to go back on any particular terminal. Remove the switch from the manifold with an adjustable wrench. Replace with new switch (thread sealing compound on the new switch is sufficient - no need for teflon tape). Reattach wires and reassemble manifold and face plate. Easy fix!
I order the part here, the first part never arrived, it was an empty package, the second part was breaking, the glass support was missing. Broken from the vent trim, then I was tired of it so I just put back the original broken part with some super glue on it, lol
Unplugged stove. Pulled stove out. Unscrewed screws and removed cover. Removed & replaced sensor. Reinstalled cover & screws. Plugged in stove and pushed back in. Only problem was when I pulled stove out, lid opened and disconnected the gas line to a burner.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
