WDF530PSYB4 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Googled the problem. Found a really good video about how to fix it. Ordered the part from PartSelect and it came in a couple of days. Son and I fixed it and had it up and going in a little more than an hour. The biggest problem was getting it disconnected from the water, drain and power and then hooking it back up. Old fat guys don't do well lying on the floor with their head under the sink - was why I needed son. Works now just like brand new. I highly recommend PartSelect! Don't know what it would have costs to get a repairman to do it but figured our labor saved us a couple hundred $. Yea!

Bought a new baskrt

Replaced latch switch with parts-select whirlpool (usa) model (good choice) and unit still wouldn't turn on. I then turned 115 vac power off to unit for 1 minute and then back on and unit worked correctly with no additional problems. .

Removed front panel and screwed old dispenser. Torx screwdriver and tiny nut driver a must!

1) Symptom: The soap dispenser did not open up during a cycle, and a soapy mess was present after completion of the cycle.
2) Looked on the WEB site for spare Kitchenaid parts, and with the model and serial number inside the door found the diagram related to the soap dispenser (which was on the Inner Door Parts page).
3) Unscrewed the bottom portion of the door (3 philips screws on each side). You do not need to unscrew the top portion.
4) Noted that the soap dispenser lever is controlled by a solenoid relay.
5) Disconnected the power to the dishwasher (I did this on the power panel: I believe it is code that a separate circuit is used for a dishwasher).
6) Then I disconnected the connection to the soap dispenser (there is a little lever at the bottom to release the connection). Then used an ohmmeter to check for continuity of the coil. Since there was no continuity, it was pretty obvious that the solenoid was defective. It is an expensive part, so double checking is important.
7) I was not absolutely certain the the electronic control module was defective as well. This is also an expensive part. To verify this, I connected an AC voltmeter to the connector, re-connected power to the dishwasher and started to run a cycle (just close the door – you do not have to add the door front). I found that immediately after the water had taken it that approx. 95 volts AC was present. That suggested that voltage was being applied. However as I found out later, this conclusion was not correct. The true reason was that no load was present, and therefore the voltage reading could not be considered reliable. In this case, this step was not essential.
8) At this time I was convinced that I needed to replace the soap dispenser and that replacement of the electronic control module was likely not necessary.
9) Obtained a new soap dispenser assembly.
10) Disconnect the power to the dishwasher.
11) Removing the old soap assembly was not difficult using an appropriately sized socket.
12) Just put the new soap assembly back in its place was no problem. Note however how the flap is positioned: the slot on the top reaches the tab on the soap dispenser. Only one side has the hole for the top size screw and the other side just goes between the door backing and the soap dispenser.
13) Reconnect the wiring assembly to the connector of the soap dispenser.
14) Re-connect the power to the dishwasher.
15) Close the dishwasher door and leave the panel still off. Run a cycle and monitor that there are no leaks and everything runs normal. Every now and then I opened the door and noted the position of the release lever. In this way I found out that later in the cycle the soap is released. I could not find in the documentation when in the cycle it actually occurred. Anyway, I let the cycle conclude and at the end I found that the soap dispenser had opened up during the cycle.
16) Put the outside panel back on. Repair successful and the lady very happy!
17) I hope this is helpful to others.

Electricity to the dishwasher was turned off at the electrical panel. I removed two screws from the bottom plate where the dishwasher meets the floor. I removed another bottom plate that had insulation attached to it that was behind the first plate. I also removed 6 screws from the inside of the dishwasher front panel. The screws are located along the edge of each side of the front panel. Once these screws were removed I was able to remove the front panel that acts as a cover for the outside of the dishwasher. With the front panel removed I noticed there was a bracket holding the soap dispenser in place attached by 6 very small screws. These had to be carefully removed so as not to strip them. With the bracket removed it appeared I could pop out the soap dispenser unit from the dishwasher door. However there were two small metal tabs that kept the soap dispenser in place. These needed to be gently pried up to free the dispenser unit. Before removing the old soap dispenser I unplugged the electrical connector that was attached to it. Once the old soap dispenser was removed I popped the new one in until the little metal tabs clicked it into place. The electrical connector was attached to the new soup dispenser. I re-attached the bracket that held the soap dispenser in place using the 6 teeny tiny screws and attached the front facing cover by putting the 6 edge screws back in. The two panels found near the bottom of the unit were re-attached. Turned the juice back on from the electrical panel and ran the dishwasher as a test. I monitored for leaks and functionality of the new soap dispenser. Repair complete.

I pulled the dishwasher out from the countertop rolled it to the side removed old clamps and hose installed new hose in kind used different hose clamps than provided turned up right pushed back in ran a cycle while looking underneath with a flashlight and saw no leaks and dishwasher has been back in use for a week now.Chris

I opened the package. I removed the cap. I screwed the cap in place. Voila!

After attempting to change the "high limit switch" to no avail, I researched further and found that doing a reset/reboot cured the problem.The instructions for the high limit thermostat were a bit off, as there was no screw to remove, only a spring like bracket that I did not try to figure out. The work area is so tight if the dishwasher is not removed and tilted that I thought it best to look for alternatives prior to pulling it out and disconnecting power and water. So ... voila, it's fixed with a reset only. Reset is accomplished by pushing two buttons 5 times. "high Temp Scrub then Heat Dry, high temp scrub then heat dry etc, until you click them both 5 times.It will go through cycles for a few minutes, then after done, run the dishwasher as normal and test if fixed. There are a few different ways to do it depending on the model.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

Removed unit from counter. Replaced element.

I remodeled my kitchen with new cabinets. In order to better utilize cabinet space, I located the dishwasher away from the sink, which means that I had to have a longer drain hose. The store I purchased the dishwasher from didn't have a longer hose, so I went online and found it on this website. Thanks for the quick shipment. I ordered it using standard delivery and received it in less than three days. I have book marked this website for future use.

I removed the screws on the inside of the door. Removed panel from the outside. Disconnected the power wires to the panel. Disconnected the wires to the latch switch. Removed the latch assebly. Put new assembly in place. Connected swtich wire. Connected panel wire. Put panel back on dishwasher door. Installed panel retaining screws. Job Complete!

Empty dishwasher remove bottom basket. Disconnect electricity then turn off water. Remove top screws from counter. Slide unit out and gently tip forward. Remove the two wires from connectors on element. Unscrew plastic nuts from element save if reusable. Gently tilt unit back to normal position. Remove old element and install new one and attach to stainless spacers to hold element in place. Tip unit forward. Reinstall plastic nuts. Plug wires back into new element connectors. Tilt back into normal position. Turn water back on check for any leaks and repair if necessary. Turn electricity back on and then slide unit back into original position and replace under counter screws. Test out by running quick cycle wash. It should function normally. During drying cycle open door to be sure it is hot inside. If hot then it is repaired. Let it finish cycle and replace basket. Do not touch hot element as it will burn you.

After finding out how to replace it (on YouTube)the repair went smoother than anticipated. the difficulty was disconnecting/connecting the electrical(BX to electric hook-up to dishwasher) due to the proximity of where it was located(~1" from the floor). Other than that, the unit now works as good as the 1st day when it was bought(~6yrs ago)