Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.
Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.
Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.
I first unplugged the microwave. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the top grill. I had to be careful because the grill was cracked close to each screw. It was a little tricky to remove the grill. Had to tilt it down as I removed it, and make sure the microwave door was opened as wide as possible. Filters were placed as the old ones, with the metal part up I believe. A little tricky to get one of the filters to fit. Grill was replaced with care so as not to further Crack it. Kind of maneuvered grill back in place, getting right side in place first. I noticed there were several tabs on the grill that needed to be placed inside of the microwave body while reinstalling the grill. Once the grill was in place, the 2 screws were put in to hold the grill in place.
Turntable would click, pop, and jerk while running.
Unplug the microwave. Removed the glass tray, the roller ring, and plastic piece that sits on the motor shaft from the inside of the microwave. Remove the 12 Phillips head screws from the bottom of microwave, let the bottom hang down on the mounting hooks at the rear of the microwave. Remove the 2 torx screws from the mounting bracket under the microwave lower the turntable motor remove the two leads. Transfer the rubber washer from the old motor to the new and reassemble and test. It took longer to write these instructions than it did to do the job.
Hint: if the microwave is over a stove lay a towel across the stove to catch any screws that may fall.
Good luck and enjoy your fully functional microwave!
Replaced broken glass tray. Used two screwdriver to remove top front panel to replace charcoal filter. Microwave parts diagram with descriptions and part numbers made the project very simple. Price of parts was substantially less than manufacturers price schedule. A very satisfied customer.
Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.
The close door warning kept coming on and the microwave would not run
Don't waste your time with other parts stores online. Partselect sells quality parts and they arrived 2 days early. I purchase a door switch from another online store and the switch was defective.
Part of the support was missing. I had to remove the two switches and put them in the new bracket Had the switches reversed and started blowing fuses. Reversed them and changed the fuse and it started working.
We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place. Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this. The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.
Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.