Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
removed screws that held the ice maker in place, then removed the cover (popped off) The drive element was easy to remove, three screws and it was out. I put in the new part and reinstalled the icemaker with the three screws that hold it in place. I never call Sears for any repair. They use contract help and I have heard horror stories about those guys!
Refrigerator was stored for about 2 years and we picked it up when the owner decided to move into an apartment and no longer needed to unit (lost home to foreclosure). Brought the unit home and it worked great for about 3 days. On the third day my wife noticed a slight electrical burning smell. I did also and quickly emptied the unit and hoped for the best. The unit did indeed stop working. I fancy myself a do it myselfer but I would normally not go near electricity but thought what the heck it was free if i ruin it I would give it away. After a little research i found Partselect and they had a great design and a few stories that sounded similar so i pulled the relay capacitor for the compressor and sure enough the unit showed burn marks where the unit had shorted out. Maybe a bug got in there or water, dirt but I ordered the part. I arrived in two days which was great. I installed the part and plug the unit in and crossed my fingers. Very happily the unit clicked on and has been running great ever since. thanks Partselect, while I may not be one of your big customers I will refer anyone with appliance issues to your site first.
I first replaced the fan, because it wouldn't run, then replaced the defrost thermostat, because I didn't know how to test it, and the defrost control board, because it was all I thought was left. Turns out it was the defrost heater. The control board senses current flow through the heater and switches the fan off. With an open element the fan won't work. This can be tested with an Ohm meter. The thermostat will test open at room temperature, this is normal.
ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,
Removed the back wall (several screws) of the freezer too get at the thermostat and removed the thermostat and after checking to makes sure I plugged the wires in correctly I replaced the defrost timer by removing the housing that held it in place, which was located underneath the freezer compartment on outside of the unit. That was it!
remove the bin from the freezer, there are 2 tabs on the lower front cover that pop off and you just pull the entire front cover off. there are 4 nuts that hold the blade cover which you can use the 7in1 with the insert removed.. i believe it's 5/16". remove the cover and the tumbler assembly pops out of the tray. remove the nut with a set of pliers and lay it out on the table in order. install is reverse of removal. make sure you get all the washers in the correct location when assembling. don't tighten the nut too tight or it will bind the rotating assembly.
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
I unplugged the unit, removed the freezer racks and removed the back panel to expose the evaporator. I removed the defrost thermostat, unplugged the wires, and installed the new thermostat. I replaced the panel and racks then removed the defrost timer kit by removing the two screws that fastened the cover to the refrigerator and the two screws that secured the timer to the cover. The timer is centered behind the front toe grille assembly. I installed the new timer, replaced the cover, and plugged the refrigerator in. It took several minutes for the defrost timer to advance before the evaporator fan would come on.
Crack in Water Reservoir Kit, causing water to leak inside the refrigerator door each time the water dispenser selector was pressed. Also ice despenser was not making much ice due to crack in reservioir .
Removed screw that held the old Water Reservoir Kit with screwdriver. Used box cutter to cut line in and line out of old reservoir kit and cut off enough of the length of line in and line out of new reservoir kit to make a good fit between old and new lines. Added the connection fittings between the old lines and new lines just below new water reservoir kit inside refrigerator door. Did not need to replace entire lines because the old water lines was in very good shape. This cut down on the repair time. Entire job took about 15 to 20 minutes. This corrected the leak and ice maker now makes plenty of ice.
The icemaker unit comes right off, only 3 screws hold it in place, so it was a breeze replacing it. I probably saved a couple hundred bucks by doing it myself, thanks to the great service at partselect.com.
Shut water off at source, disconnect electrical supply at wall, remove screws retaining cardboard dust cover, and remove cover. Removed water supply line to control valve, remove two screws retaining unit to frame of refrigerator, and gently pull out unit. Remove two water lines, making sure to note where each line was connected to unit. Remove two electrical connectors, making sure to note where each line was connected, remove old valve. Noting where mounting bracket is positioned, remove old mounting bracket from valve, and reinstall bracket on new valve the same way. Coat threads lightly on new valve with vaseline, reinstall valve in reverse order, making sure not to over-tighten water connections. Note, before installing dust cover, reconnect wall power, and turn on water and inspect for leaks, at connections. Tighten leaking connections very slightly until leak stops. Reinstall dust cover, and carefully return refrigerator to it's original location.
Lower RH door hinge was making a snapping noise because door closure cam screw backed out and damaged cam by egg-shaping hole.
Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
