STF7000FS0 Electrolux Washer - Instructions

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

With breakdown maual, I diassembled the door and reinstalled the glass and rehung the door and closed it. Turned on the machine and the bottom of the glass does not meet the rubber seal on the washer opening.

removed front panel and used deep socket to remove pins that hold shocks. front left shock took most of the time because of hoses and a unit in the back that needed to be released to be able to remove the pin on the bottom. the right shock was a piece of cake to replace. used a hammer to pull the pins into place (i did not use it to tap on them ) . lots of bloddy fingers from sharp edges.

I replaced both shocks, as both shocks were broken! Keep in mind that Parts select packages them in pairs. I order 2 packages or 4 shocks, guess I have another pair for ~ 5 years from now. These are located under the front bottom panel, so no need to isolate water lines or even pull this sucker away from the wall. Tight clearances are the only factor from making this really easy. Use some Vaseline to assist inserting the new plastic pins.

The parts came with instructions They stated to remove the front panel. This only gets to one side for a difficult repair. I removed the back panel then it was a snap. Easiest with two people.

replaced the two shocks with the new ones by removing the pins that held the old ones in place.

Removed old shock abs. (both sides). The one side, I had to remove the speed control board to access the lower nut on the one shock. Install was fairly easy however, it did not fix the washer. Apparently there was something else (either a switch, the control board or the motor) needs replaced too.

First I removed the two screws that hold the part in place. I then pulled the part out about 3 inches and disconnected the three wires from the part and put the new one in

Remove top of washer, remove door lock assembly,install new assembly replace top.

love parts select have used them several times for parts great company

I removed the front access cover and the rear cover. It was also necessary to remove the water level sensor (attached to the tub drain hose) to access one of the shocks. Not having a 1/2" deep socket, I used a 2" piece of 1/2" copper pipe to depress the locking tab on the shock attachment pins--worked great. Pulled the pins out with pliers. Putting the pins back in after replacing the shocks was easiest to do using 'channel-lock' pliers to grab the bracket and the pin head and squeeze in the pin. The only problem was that my copper pipe piece fell into the drain hose when removing one of the pins! Had to take the drain hose loose to fish it out.

As others have mentioned, it was pretty straight forward although a bit finicky to get into the tight spots to press out the pins. The little piece of 1x4 block helped press the pins back in. For the right side shock, I had to undo the large rubber hose at the bottom of the drum and also had to remove the sheet metal shield in the back to allow clearance for the pin to come out. There's only 2 screws holding it in so again, not too hard to do.

Removed front panel, used socket to compress lock tab on plastic pins holding shocks. Still taks a little effort to get them out. The one behind a plastic drain canister is a proble as there doesn't seem to be a good method for moving that canister. I think that's why the spare pin is provided.

Sadly, my case was one of the lower percentage where the problem is in the rear bearing area. The shocks were, the top support springs were good but the rear of the washer drum was shot. Opted to replace with new washer rather than go through the much longer repair with the almost $300 in parts.