SCE30500W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Unscrewed three screws securing the glass top. Lifted glass top and wedged it open. Took a picture of the current wiring. Removed old burner.Compared male contact points on new and old burner. Plugged new burner in appropriately. Note: The new burner is MUCH hotter than the old one.

Removed two screws holding cooktop to oven. Unlike the video, the cooktop was not detachable as the wires were hard-wired to the range, so I had to prop the top up with a 6" block of wood and was working upside down. I replaced the element and everything worked just fine.

I watched the video on how to change the oven sensor, which helped me change both the bake element and the sensor. Had a little trouble pulling the sensor plug apart so had help with someone else holding half of it with pliers while I pulled it apart. (It is in an awkward place in the oven and I didn't know how to take the oven door off.) The bake element was a breeze. Had to use tweezers to grab one of the connectors that sneaked back into the insulation. Saved a ton of money. Would have cost more just to have the repairman come--not including parts. Thanks!!!

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

Disconnected power pulled oven from wall, removed 8 screws from back, unplugged sensor, removed old, attached new, put screws back wow saved me $500. From buying new and $150. For service call

Followed provided video

Turned of the power, removed an old element, by unscrewing 2 screws, pulled out element out about 4 inches, remove the slide on connectors, then put them back on that new element, carefully slide in element to the back wall and screw in the 2 screws. Turn the power back on. It is nothing to it. When the old element is out, I took an advantage and cleaned up the inside, using the oven cleaner sprayer.

The thermocouple was suspect. It should be super easy- two screws, but the wiring harness would not pull through on my oven. I confirmed the procedure with the PartSelect video which is good. The harness was caught and broke so I had to pull the oven out partially to get to the harness. The sensor did check bad on the multimeter (resistance too high- Google it, I did) so I ordered the part. Once the new part was installed the oven still did not function. So I had to get busy with the multimeter and pull the oven again. On the back of my oven near the wire to the bake element is a Hi Limit Switch which cuts off the bake element if the outside of the oven gets above the preset temperature. Mine was cracked and faulty and had to be replaced. The oven works great now.

Thanks to the highest rated user comment and following his instructions the switch exchange was easy. The supplied instructions were of little to no help and confusing. The hardest part was getting to the two side top Phillips screws because the granite counter top was in the way necessitating raising the stove till the screw heads were exposed. Once raised the front cover was easily removed after undoing six screws. The cook top did not need to be removed. Either of the supplied wires would work and only one of the two was needed. The replacement switch performed far better than the original.

Remove 2 screws in upper left corner of stove holding sensor in place. Pull sensor out and disconnect plastic electrical connector. Select appropriate adapter (both styles provided with new part) & reinstall. Power up stove and select bake on control unit to test. Works like a charm!

I never reply to these surveys, but this was so brain dead simple, I had to respond. You take off two safety screws ( the ones that keep the oven door from falling off) You take off 6 screws holding the door together in order to remove the old hinges, put in the new hinges, put the six screws back in that hold the door together, put the oven door back on. Oh, and then put the two safety screws back in the so the oven door does not fall off. The only advice I have is put a big beach towel down to keep anything from getting scratched. Very Easy and saved me a lot of money.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

I removed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new one using the supplied wiring adapter for my model of range. Parts Select made this an easy project. Thanksyou

Followed directions as supplied. New part did not work, so it must be in the control unit which is no longer available. So time for a new range.