RS776G*01 Hotpoint Range - Instructions

The Surface Element on our GE stove made in the mid 70's finally gave up and would not heat. I went to several of the big home improvement stove with not luck in finding the right heating element for our stove so I turned to a local appliance stove that carries GE products, they did sell me an element and asured me it was the correct one, but once again the element was the wrong one. Then with a simple google search for GE replacment parts I found partselect.com. With the detailed description and images with measuring grids I was able to quickly find the correct heating element for me stove. I am very pleased and the stove is back to 100%.
Thanks partselect.com

Shut power off. Removed two outer screws, pulled heating element forward and removed two more screws. Ordered part and it arrived in three days. Installed in reverse order of removal. Easy fix. Cost was reasonable.

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

Drilled out the screw on one wire as it was corroded to the metal socket. Sanded both wire terminations. Installed wires into terminal block. Reassembled all loose parts and installed into burner slot. Worked perfectly.

I was worried at being able to locate the part as the oven is over 35 years old. I put in the old part number on your site and it gave me the correct replacement. On my model you unscrew the two screws securing the element to the back of the oven. Then pull out the old element carefully because the wires are screwed onto the element. I pulled it out 4 or 5 inches and unscrewed the wires and connected the wires to the new element. I then threaded the wires back into the hole at the back of the oven and screwed the element back in place. Works perfect.

First, turn off the power. Remove the two retaining screws, pull out the broken element far enough to unscrew the connectors, remove the element, reconnect the new element, screw it back in, turn the power back on. Yes, it is that easy! Took me all of five minutes. Took longer to find my tools!

unscrew two screws pull the old element out put in new one and screw back in . We had to wire it direct because our oven had quick connect connectors and this part did not. But it was no big deal and didn't take any time to fix.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place againts the oven wall. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. These wires were screwed into the element so it was important to order the correct screw-in type replacement element. I pushed the wires back into place and screwed in the plate that holds the element against the oven wall. It was very quick and easy.

I simply removed the 2 mounting screws, pulled the element out a few inches, disconnected the 2 screws holding the wires to the terminals and reversed the order for assembly.

REMEMBER to turn off the breaker at the panel because the wires are still hot even though the oven control itself is off (trust me!!!).

Excellent service and fast delivery from partselect.com........ I'd gladly deal with them again.

The hardest part of this entire repair was locating the right socket and explaining why/how I burned my fingers (yes I had to touch the element to prove to myself it was that easy to fix and worked). 4 screws, 1 replacement part 5 minutes no cussing. This was the easiest repair I have ever done.

Removed screws that hold element in place. Disconnected the two electrical leads. Put the new element in place, hooked up the two leads and installed the the screws that hold the element in place.

Because of the age of the oven it took a little time to loosen the screws that held the element in. Once the screws were removed it was a matter of pulling the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then it was a matter of repeating the steps in reverse. Very quick and easy