RGB745WEH7WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

because my oven had two floor panels I had to take and remove both to be able to reach and unscrew the mounting screws to the igniter.This process took extra time, but putting the igniter in was simple.

I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.

Troubleshot the problem, located the part (igniter), tested with ohm meter, and ordered all using online help tools. I got a good price on the part and it showed up the next day. All the necessary adapters shipped with the part and the installation went perfectly. My oven is working again. It doesn't get any better than that.

the lower over bake part wasn't working but, the boiler portion was. replacing the igniter fixed the problem

Open the bottom drower and disconected wires loosend the 2 screws an d out it came . To put it back I just reverse what I ve done . . Works beautiful by the way part came the next day thank you for that'

opened top cover and bottom cover. removed broken parts and removed old connections. reconnected new wires and screws and put back the top cover and bottom cover.

Simply removed the cover screws, and the heat shield then removed the defective part, discarded it and re-installed, the new igniter and the associated heat shield cover and screws, then turned the gas back on and tried the oven it worked as advertised.

I removed two bolts at the rear of the oven bottom. I pulled the old oven bottom out, and put the new oven bottom in. I put the two bolts back in and voila it looks like a new oven. Done in less than 15 minutes.

Remove the oven door by opening slightly and then gently lift it up and away. I was surprised at how easy it was to remove the door. Remove the wire wracks inside. Remove the bottom plate by unscrewing the holding screws in the back. Lift the plate from the back and it will slide out from the front lip. Depending on how much crud has accumulated you may have to gently move it from side to side to get the back to lift. Remove the lower drawer. Now you can work the oven away from the wall. Take the time to clean up any spills and etc. from the sides and the floor and cabinets. My oven was lighter than I expected when I moved it away from the wall and I had less stuff to clean around it so I was very lucky. It helps that I don't cook that much but I was annoyed at having to replace the igniter for the very same reason. Unplug the oven from the wall outlet.

My next step was to remove the top plate to access the broiler igniter. I had to unscrew the front pipe that feeds the gas to fully remove the plate then I put the screw back in so the pipe would not hang down. There are four screws in the top plate and I had to lay backwards in the oven to put them in again but it was a one-hand job removing them with a socket wrench.

I used two flashlights for most of the job but in the end I had to use a hanging light so I could illuminate the entire inside of the oven. I also took pictures of each igniter while they were in place and while they were still connected to the main connections.

Once the top plate was gone, I removed the cover on the back of the stove that covered the broiler igniter connection. Then I used one hand with a socket driver to remove the two screws holding the igniter. Due to the age of my oven the screws were challenging to remove and I broke one of them during the removal process. If this had been any other less risky environment I would have used lubricant but I didn't want any residue left inside. I disconnected the igniter from the rear and then pulled it free from the inside. I cut the wires close to the old igniter and then used the ceramic wire nuts to connect the old wire to the new igniter. I left the connections long to ensure I fed most of it back through the hole. I completed those connections and then moved on to the broiler. I replaced the back cover only after replacing both igniters. I used the new screws and the igniter held tightly with the one screw. The oven was too tight and the position of the plate was too awkward to try to drill out the old screw and the new plates provided with the igniter did not fit my oven.

The bottom igniter disconnected from beneath where the bottom drawer slides in. There is a white disconnect link and a flat head connector covered in a plastic protector. It was easy to disconnect those two. I rated this as A Bit Difficult because it was, but it would have been really easy if I had been able to remove the two screws holding the igniter faster than I had with the broiler one. The igniter hangs off the bottom gas pipe and very close to bottom of the oven. There is an opening where the wires feed up and the pipe connection feeds to the bottom of the oven. I could not get a socket wrench to fit easily. I managed to loosen the front screw a bit but then the socket wrench was useless. I couldn't use a nut driver because of the location. I was left using the closed end of a box wrench by touch and this is what took me hours to complete. If not for those screws I could have been done in 45 mins. The new screws went in by hand and I could not get them as tight as they were before, but the igniter was in there and level and as close to the plate as I could get it. I cut the wires close and fed them down the pipe. Attaching the first wire to the clip with one hand was darn near impossible. I almost lost the connection through the hole and then I would not have been happy since it would mean removing a back plate to get to it. I did manage it and the othe connection slid on w

First I removed 3 screws and took off cover plate. Next I removed 3 screws and took off old igniter. With power off to stove, removed wire nuts from old igniter. Very carfully replaced it with new part. 20 min

When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.

First i tested where on the piping (i checked each pipe just in case, that is what caught the front right tube) it was coating the pipe in soap and letting gas flow to create a bubble by the leak. i then processed to order parts. in the processes of repair and check i noticed that the insulation for the vent was torn and decided to replace it and the hinge after i clumsily lost it. the installation was hampered by the fact that the nut by the burners was tight as if soldered in place. it is easier if you take out the lighter from the cage freeing it to be dealt with without having to do contortions. in order to work with out breaking the piping unscrew all screws from the all burners. and wreastal out the lighters from the cages so it does not bend the tubes too much(it is very easy to re"install" them just screw the cage back in and bang the lighter back in it wont break) Remember 3 things: 1)turn off gas and electric 2)keep track of every thing taken out and were it goes 3) check by the knobs as well (that is where ours were)

I removed the two nuts that secure the rear orifice tubes. This allowed me to lift the range top to access the broken tubes. Once lifted I removed the nuts that held the broken orifice tubes. I then connected the new orifice tubes. I removed the three(star)screws that fasten the orifice brackets under the range top. Doing this allowed me to connect the new tubes without having to maneuver them at all. I then lowered the top just enough to reattach the brackets. After securing the rear tubes I snapped the range top back into place. Just remember, if you use propane for cooking then you must remove the brass orifices from the old tubes and place them in the new ones. If you don't do this then your flame will not burn properly. Simply unscrew them from the old tubing and put them in the new tubing.

Turned off the electricity. Unscrewed bracket holder for igniter. Gently pulled igniter wires our from behind the metal wall. Twisted porcelain caps off to disconnect. Replaced with new igniter. A tight fit to get tools in but easy and quick.

Husband actually did the repair, It went really well except he forgot to remove the heat shield from the old part to attach to the new bottom. (His mistake!)