RBS305PVQ04 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.

Replaced the lower heating element with a new part.

My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.

I am not the handiest guy around so i was a little nervous doing this job but figured i would take a crack at it ( no pun intended). Took the door off as per instructions from kitchenaid , unscrewed all the outer screws , took off the back of door unscrewed the metal bar holding the glass in ( there are 3 levels of glass) took the 2 good glass sheets out got to the broken glass removed that put the new one in , replaced all the other glass and screws and put door back on, and i felt so proud. Probably saved about 150 dollars by doing it myself. I feel so proud.

This was more difficult than anticipated - probably because I'd never done it before. Once I got the door off (I didn't have the proper pins and used nails but didn't realize they had to be headless) I found all the screws, which were relatively easy to take out. I was surprised that the thermal door glass was obscured by two other panes of glass. It took more disassembly than anticipated and a few false starts when reassembling, but all in all it got done. I was happy that a job that would have cost probably $300 or more ended up getting done for $40 plus my labor - which isn't worth much these days. I'd certaily do it again.

Turned off the breaker. Removed the door and side trims. Slid out the oven and removed the metal casements. Removed the front control board by unplugging each wire and carefully replaced them back into the exact same places on the new board. Be sure each plug is firmly seated. Then put everything back together and slid the oven back into the wall.

Removed and replaced boiler element

Read all the way through this once before doing it. It really helps in keeping pieces and parts separated. First I had to take off the oven door. Please do this as it will make your life so much easier! The owners instructions does a lousy job explaining how to do this. You need to insert a small Allen wrench into the holes behind the door hinge pin. Just stick them in there and leave them. If you don't have Allen wrenches you can use small nails or the like, but you have to put something into the holes. Close the door slowly, yes it will feel like you are going to break the hinges or the wrenches. When you get the door almost completely closed you should wiggle the door a bit by the handle and pull up. The door will come off. Once you get the door off you can get to work. Leave these wrenches in the hinge holes. You will need a flat surface big enough to lay the door down to work on it. Lay it down with the handle towards the surface and the broken glass facing you. Remove the 4 screws on the broken glass side, the 2 screws holding the brackets on the bottom and the 2 screws on the top of the door. You will need to wiggle the inside cover off because there are 2 little clips at the top you need to get it off of the outer glass door. You should have 2 separate pieces, the outer glass of the door and the inner tempered glass and sheet metal portion of the door. Set the outer glass door aside, somewhere safe, as you really don't want to have to reorder that part too! From there you can lay the door down with the broken inner door glass towards the work surface. Remove the screws and good pieces of glass and lay them down in the order you take them out. This helps putting them back together later. Keep the pieces together in sets so you know which set goes to each section. There should be 3 pieces of glass total in the assembly. You remove the screws and the 2 good pieces of glass. The inside door glass is accessible under a large piece of sheet metal held in place by little flanges cut into it. You can remove this sheet metal panel piece by wiggling it out away from under the hinges and away from the hinge end. There is a piece of insulation under there as well. Make sure you reseat it correctly when you put it all back together. If you don't it will stick out, and make things hard to line up. Pull the broken glass out, Put the new glass in and replace the sheet metal panel. At this point I would suggest putting the four screws you took out at the very beginning from the inside of the door back in. They keep the 2 hinge assemblies in place and they will be harder to line up if you don't. You need to work from the bottom side up but it's pretty easy to get the 4 screws back in. Don't be afraid to wiggle the pieces around so you can line up the holes. They need to line up so that the hinges line up back to the oven. Reverse how you took the other glass pieces out and put the door back together. Put the front glass piece back on and secure it in place with the bottom door brackets and screws and the top 2 screws. Lift the door unit back up by the handle and place it in the slots for the hinges exactly the way you removed it. You will feel it sort of catch when you pull the door open slowly. Remove the Allen wrenches and you are done.

I removed the door from the oven by locking the hinges with the built-in locks leaving the door open about 20 degrees. the door can then be lifted slightly off the hinges and pulled out at the bottom while tilting the top inward to remove it from the oven. With the door laying on a suitable surface with the outside face down, I removed about 6 or 8 screws from the door inside panel freeing the springs and the inside panel from the middle and front panels. Care must be taken to note from which locations the pointed self-taping screws come as opposed to the narrower-thread machine screws that hold the springs. Note: The inside panel does not need to be removed! Once the inside panel is freed from the inner panels, using suction cups the glass can be lifted slightly and slid toward the bottom of the door, rotated slightly, and removed through the window hole in the back face of the door. The new glass is installed in a similar way using suction cups by maneuvering it at a angle through window hole and into its frame. The hinges were replaced by lifting the bottom of the inner door panel slightly to clear the hinge and swapping in the new ones. Be sure to observe the difference between the left and right hinges in the location of the screw hole at the bottom of each hinge The narrow-thread machine screws that hold the hinges to the inside panel should be installed first while you can get you hand inside the door to hold each hinge in alignment with the screw holes while you start each screw. Re-install the pointed self tapping screws by pressing down on the rear panel to collapse the spring-action glass frames within the door so that the short screws will reach their threaded hole. Be careful to back off the self tapping screws first until you feel a click into the original threads to avoid stripping the holes. Last re-install the door on the oven. The replacement hinges should have come with the springs already "cocked" with the built in locks in place. Install the door with it in tan almost-closed position by sliding the hinge extensions into the slots in the oven. Once the extensions are properly in the slots the door can be fully opened and the built-in hinge locks re-positioned to the unlocked position to allow the door to fully close. Should you accidentally release only one of the hinge locks in trying to insert the hinge extensions into the slots you will have to reset the hinge. If the door is free from the oven, this may require a pair of heavy pliers, like channel lock pliers, to re-tension the hinge spring and "cock" the hinge extension by re-positioning the built-in lock in the locked position. If the hinge lock on one side of the door releases, but the the opposite side hinge extension is not fully inserted into the oven slot I recommend carefully moving the door to the fully open position, being careful to avoid twisting the inserted spring's extension, so that the hinge lock can be re-positioned to the locked position, the door full removed, and start again to install it. It helps to have two persons to hold opposite sides of the door for this operation as the door is heavy, but not essential. When in the proper position the hinge extensions may not appear fully inserted, but this is normal to allow for closing of the built in locks. It helps to observe how much of the hinge extension is exposed either before removing the door initially, or, if you have a double oven, looking at the hinges on the door of the other oven. Good luck with your repair.

I bought an old house where this Double Wall oven was not working. I looked at the suppressor and one of the Red diodes was burnt. So, I removed it, took a picture of it and send it to the sales rep. She located the part exact part and sent it within 3 days. Then I installed it and the oven worked beautifully. My Appliance repair man gave me an estimate of $760.00 and I was able to repair within 30 minutes and $60.00 part. Really happy, Thank you .

Remove rear panel - remove sensor from inside - unplug from rear - reverse to install - did not fix problem

Cut the power. Undid the screws to the element. Popped off the old element replaced with new,put screws back in turned power back on and Shazam it was up and going

Removed old racks, installed new racks. Recycled old racks.

I was able to remove the old element and planned it with what little time off that I could. This would have been maybe 20-30 minute repair at the most. HOWEVER! I was extremely irritated screws were not included? When I called to ask if they were missing they said they didn’t come with the element. Cost me a very annoying trip to the hardware store. Not sure if I missed it on the site that they don’t provide screws - would have been nice to know that before I started. Still scratching my head as to why screws wouldn’t be included? My old ones were as beat up as the element I replaced. I was so irritated I was looking for a spot to leave feedback. Product is fine. Shipping was fine. Sending these products out as they do? Zero stars on that.

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