PYG2300AWW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

There was no reair needed. We just needed to replace the filter. The new filter arrived in a very short time and now we are drying clothes without losing lint through the dryer vent.
Ordering was easy with just the model and filter number which was listed on the dryer door. I was even given a diagram on the computer screen as to where to locate all the parts numbers needed.
This was a very satisfying order experience!

I threw out the cracked lint screen and put the new one in it's place. I don't know why I waited so long to order the replacement part.

The first issue I had was diagnosing the problem, but after researching on the internet I was able to determine that the High Limit Switch caused the Thermal Fuse to blow. I found instructions on how to check the Thermal Fuse with an Ohm Meter, which was bad. This was a simple test. I removed the Thermal Fuse from the machine and tested it by using my Ohm Meter on the continuity setting. The instruction said that the fuse should always be closed and have continuity. Simply put, its like having a light switch in the on position. I put the leads from the Ohm Meter on the two connectors of the Thermal Fuse and found that there was no current passing through it, telling me that it was bad and needed replacing.
The bigger issue for me was what caused the Thermal Fuse to go bad in the first place, which was evident after I opened the dryer to check the part. The dryer was full of lint. Now understand that the lint that was inside the dryer was just a dusty coating, but I am one of those people that when he takes something apart and it is dirty I have to clean it before I put it back together, which payed off for me.
I removed the front panel to make it easier to clean the machine. This is when I noticed that the lint trap was almost completely blocked. Most people like me just before starting a load will clean the lint screen, but we never think that over time some of that lint gets by the screen and has to go somewhere. Well in this machine this happened and eventually clogged the tunnel leading out of the machine, which caused the machine to not be able to breath, which caused the heating element to overheat and blow the Thermal Fuse. I also used this time to inspect the rest of the machine, which again payed off.
During my inspection I found that the belt was beginning to fray, the drum seals were starting to tear and the pads under the drum glides had started to fall out, so I decided to order all the parts and refurbish the machine.
While I was waiting on the parts to arrive I disassembled the machine and cleaned everything and removed the old parts.
The first step I took was to clean out the lint tunnel on the front panel of the machine. To do this I first had to remove the front drum seal which is held on using a double sided tape. I then opened the door and removed the two screws that held the tunnel in place. I then removed the tunnel from the front panel and was able to remove all the lint that was clogged inside. This tunnel also has a foam seal, which is used to seal it against the front panel stopping the lint from escaping into the inside of the dryer compartment, which I also replaced. It was easy to install as it comes with a self adhesive backing. The next step was to reassemble these parts in the reverse order that I took them apart. This is where I ran into my first setback. Reinstalling the tunnel was not a problem but, when I went to install the felt drum seal I found that it did not come with a self adhesive backing and I had no way to secure it on the machine. So I had to go the next day and purchase some double sided tape which I used to attach the seal.
The next thing I did was to remove the drum from the machine. I did this by reaching inside the machine and releasing the belt off the tensioner. I then took hold of the front of the drum and lifted it slightly while pulling it towards me which allowed it to pop off the rollers which the back side of the drum rides on. I then removed the felt seal from the back side of the machine. This seal was a little more difficult to remove as the factory glues this seal in place. I cleaned this surface and reattached the felt seal using the double sided tape.
The next step was to replace the front drum glides. These glides are a two part component. The first part is a Teflon coated glide and the second part is a felt pad that goes underneath it. I removed the old parts, cleaned the surfaces and reinstalled the glides in the reverse order.

removed front panel cleaned dust trap and ducting,removed heating element cleaned all lint changed thermal fuse and high lilit fuse reasembled and ALL BETTER,works fine

1. Opened the top. (UN-plugged it first) by prying between top and front of machine.
2. Disconnected the door switch
3. Removed two screws one each on top corners of front
4. Pulled top of front cover forward and lifted up to remove.
5. The drum will fallout if not careful, good time to remove drum to clean dust from inside machine.
6. With drum in place slide new belt, skinny side down around drum, to about halve way back.
7. While supporting drum reach back to the motor area, should be on right side facing front of machine. There you will find the belt idler/tension assembly.
8. Thread the belt through the assembly and around the motor drive pulley.
9. Ensure the tensioning assembly is firmly in the slots on floor of machine.
10. Reassemble housing in reverse order. took about 45 minutes

I watched the video to know how to change the belt. I removed the front panel and slid the belt over the tub (you will have to pick the tub up a little). Then I reached around with one hand and slid the belt over the pulley. Then I used the same one hand to push the tensioner back and slip the belt behind it. You will be doing most of the work by feeling not by vision but that's where their video is helpful. I paused the screen on my laptop where it shows how the tensioner goes around the belt. Also when you slide the belt over the tub look for the grove the previous belt left for alignment. It took me 10 minutes.

Opened the bottom panel w/ 1/4 nut driver to access the flame sensor and easy fix.

Disconnect power source remove front panel, lift drum off mounts, push old belt off the rear of the drum and remove drum from dryer cabinet. release tension on idler ass. and remove assembly idler was wrong depth so I had to remove the wheel from new assembly and replace it on the old mount (not a big deal, easier than returning it for a replacement 5 min. job)don't forget to vacuum out all the lint that accumalates in dry cabinet ( big fire hazard if left in there) lay new belt over drum, sneak it pass all obsticles and route it around idler which is the hardest part because of limited room for arms and hands. Make sure drum is snapped back into the rear seal and spin by hand to check proper belt alignment. Replace front panel and run.

I followed the excellent video instructions for dryer drive belt replacement. The tensioner proved to be a little tricky. I also had to fiddle the drum back into position. Now that I've actually done the repair, it would take half as long if doing it over.

Removed top, removed front, laid dryer on back to keep drum in place and replaced belt. Used masking to hold new belt in place while installing. Easy job. Belt was delivered in 2 days. Thanks

We followed instructions in videos from this site and youtube. The repair went smoothly and dryer works great now.

The new one came. I put the new knob on. It looks and works great. Looks just like the original you can't even tell its been replaced. Tip: Don't stack boxes on top of your washer or dryer in storage unless you protect the knobs first, or they will get broken!

Stumbled across this websites video on how to open the dryer lid and replace 2 parts. Went and did it the same way and wala.. done. Before going wild and just unscrewing everthing take a moment to look over how everything is positioned it will help out later. I got a little confused on how to wedge the little fuse bracket back on, that took most of the 30min of the operation.

I'm a woman over 50 with little experience in appliance repair, but I didn't want to buy a new dryer. Landlord's Electrician ruled out house circuit. Viewed the expert videos. Opened top with putty knife, front with screw driver,cleaned out front lint areas then removed, tested and ruled out door switch and heater. Then removed the thermal switch, which tested to be dead. All parts were tough to remove, but saw fellow on video having trouble pulling off wires so it gave me confidence to use a little force and plyers. Since I knew if I didn't damage parts I could return them I gambled and spent under $30 to save my old dryer. It runs better than it has in years, so now I can save money on the electric bills and know how to maintain more than just the vent out. Thank you part select, because without the videos I would not have tried this by myself.

The dryer seemed to be shutting off due to overheating after 10 minutes. It would have to cool before turning on again, but it wouldn't stay running for very long before overheating. I cleaned the unit thoroughly and attempted to run another load with the same results. Other websites suggested replacing the motor, but in reference to this site, I tried the high limit fuse first, and I'm very glad I did. When I took the dryer apart to clean the blower, I found the old fuse which seemed quite used. It must have fallen down in the bottom when the repair man last replaced it. Anyhow, the color dot on the fuse is very important, but easy to miss. Even the repair man missed it as he had replaced the old pink dot electric fuse with the yellow dot gas fuse. The gas fuse will allow the electric dryer to overheat, tripping the thermal fuse and shutting down the dryer. This is a good design, as it prevents the dryer from burning down your house. The pink dot fuse MUST BE USED if you are using an electric model. I even missed this detail on my first attempt and almost lost hope after replacing the fuse with no change in performance. I double-checked my work though and caught my mistake. Now I enjoy a functional dryer again for fractions of the cost of a new unit. Thanks, Partselect!