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Models > PFS22SISBSS > Instructions

PFS22SISBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for PFS22SISBSS parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the PFS22SISBSS
346-360 of 471
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Gasket Rubbing And Tearing Where Both Doors Rubbed Together To Close.

  • Customer: Roland from Matawan, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Not being very experienced in repairs, I researched the internet and found the site of partselect. Watched the videos and decided to give a try. While the gasket was soaking in a hot tub, I pried the old gasket off the door. I then dried the new gasket and laid the plastic strip on the door, tapping it in with the mallet. Then pushed the rest of the gasket into the door. Surprised myself that it went so easily. Thank you partselect.

coils were icing up and refrigerator section was warm freezer was cold

  • Customer: Chuck from TARRYTOWN, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged unit and removed vented cover over compressor section. The run capacitor is a simple fix 1 Phillips head screw and 2 spade wire connectors. For the temperature sensor I had to remove all drawers and the ice maker to remove the back cover to expose the condenser. Put a bowl at the drain stem in the rear of the unit and used a heat gun to defrost the coils on the condenser. Cut the wire about 3" from the sensor end . cut about the same off the new sensor stripped the wires put shrink wrap on each wire, attached butt connecors . heat gun for the shrink wrap and reassembled everything. Simple job that took about a half hour to do both. I will monitor the fridge for a couple of weeks to see if I need to change the control board.

Started ticking like a bomb and losing coolness

  • Customer: Ron from Bowie, MD
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the Parts Select video step-by-step. It was exactly as the video described and took about 5 minutes (though I already had the cover off). Almost a week later and the refrigerator is running fine.

Clicking sound. Compressor tried to start with each click, but would not start. Temperature display not lit.

  • Customer: Arnold from Hoodsport, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
The instruction sheet (2-pages) supplied with the main control board were simple to follow. I removed the cover in back, carefully unplugged all the cable connectors, unscrewed the green ground wire, and lightly pinched the four white mounting pins with my fingers to release the old board. I then snapped the new board onto the four white pins, plugged all the cables back in, attached the ground wire under the closest available screw, and closed it up. I did not need to cut any wires. Plugged the refrigerator in and it's been running fine all day. The whole job took less than 10 minutes.

A few small ice cubes in an empty try on return from vacation

  • Customer: Robert from Loudon, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Look at various pertenant DYI articles and videos on the internet. Replaced water filter with bypass plug. Checked water flow to icemaker water solenoid. Ran icemaker diagnostic test which failed. Ordered replacement. On receipt of replacement, began replacement work. To wit: Pulled fiidge from wall and unplugged. (Not necessary to shut water off.) Removed small freezer basket. Unloaded main freezer basket, removed it then removed the freezer door. (A screw on each side bolts the door rail of the chassis slide to the freezer chassis slide.) Loosened screws on rear, top of partition between icemaker and small freezer basket. Pushed up on partition front and popped out U-bar supporting partition bottom being carefull not to bend it. Removed same. Removed screws from partition and set aside. Removed grilled "thingy" between rear of icemaker and partition. Now have access to icemaker screws. Loosened the screws, pushed up and out and carefully let it hang by it's connector. Fiddled with the connector locking tabs and finally got it loose. Compared old and new icemaker. Have to keep the old water funnel. The new wiring harness was stiff and the connector had a different orientation. Twisted both the wiring harness and connector to align connector while the icemaker hung by it's cable being careful not to let the icemaer slip and fall to the bottom. After much fiddling, got the connector inserted and locked. Set icemaker over the two screws, pulled it down and tightend the screws. Put the old funnel into the new unit being very careful to get it right the first time. Put grilled "thingy and the partition and U-bar back in, put door back on, put the ice cube bin back, freezer drawers bac and reloaded the frozen food, plugged fridge in. Done! Time to replace icemaker was about 20 minutes and another 2 hours to do the rest ofthe work. Still required only a nutdriver and phillips.

Fridge wouldn't keep temp

  • Customer: Richard from Nesquehoning, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!

Frame was broken in multiple places - along the back and front

  • Customer: Michelle from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I agree with the others, it took more time to take off the other parts and make sure I didn't snap the plastic than it did to actually install the entire thing. I would recommend having an extra set of hands to install the middle part for the drawers. All in all, not hard.

stuck relay caused the refrigerator to cool for a few days and then go hot

  • Customer: Paul from Deerfield, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Very simple repair. Watched the installation video of the motherboard on PartSelect.com. and followed the steps. Took me longer to pull the refrigerator out away from the wall than it did to do the installation. Do pay attention to how you remove the plugs from the old motherboard so you plug them in correctly on the new one. We amateurs tend to over think our projects. Watch the video of the pro. Follow their instructions. Be very happy and satisfied with the results. And, remember, ALWAYS unplug your appliance. No shortcuts.

Fridge/Freezer getting too warm

  • Customer: Nick from Burnt Cabins, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
What an awesome site! After putting in my model number and finding the problem I was having, I simply picked the 2 parts that were most likely to solve the problem. I bought a defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. To a high certainty, they would solve my problem. They didn't however! I ended up having to buy a temperature sensor on another order a few weeks later when the problem resurfaced! My own fault. I should have bought it the first time. As others have written: the longest part of the job is defrosting the ice from the coil. One thing I did that I didn't see suggested: plug the drain hole below the coil. I put a couple towels in the bottom of the freezer and ran the hair dryer. Didn't take long. I read that the amount of water created will overflow the pan under the refrigerator, so I plugged the drain hole. Once you clean that mess up, the repair is pretty straight forward. Great site. Even through I had to make two separate purchases, I still saved a lot of money. Thanks!

freezer and fridge warm

  • Customer: Brian from Bluemont, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
diagnose problem would not come out of defrost cycle researched issue on line with model & serial # found issues with control board and boards were upgraded purchased new board installed in 15 minutes and been working fine

Both, refrigerator and freezer stopped cooling. Fan was working, but the compressor didn’t turn on.

  • Customer: PAULO from HIALEAH, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, you must watch the video on the partselect.com site. The video helps a lot. Then, you can start disconnecting the power cable; unscrew the cover of the main control board. Disconnected the connections from the old board. Unplug the board with a help of a small plier. Installed the new board, connect all connections back. Put the cover back. Connect back the power cable. Unit is running as a brand new.

Ice maker not making ice and leaking

  • Customer: Andy from Ft Pierce, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the front cover of the icemaker assembly and found that the gears were not meshing properly and therefore slipping. I removed the front panel and found that the white plastic cam unit under the large gear wheel had disengaged from the hole in the front plate which is why the gears were slipping. I refitted the cam and wheel and it worked fine but stopped again for the same reason the next day. As the plate appeared to be buckled somehow (not user repairable) and, as the unit was leaking and pooling water (which froze) in the collection unit, I decided to change the whole icemaker.

Ordered about 1300 on a Thursday, it arrived the next day at noon and was fitted straight away. As others have mentioned, the extension cable required to fit into my old fridge made it quite cumbersome however with a bit of juggling and persuasion, I got it to fit into the cut out corner of the ice container so it is completely out of the way. Job done in about 35 minutes, making ice in an hour.

My refrigerator had a clicking noise

  • Customer: John from El Sobrante, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After watching the video on the main control board removal and installation I had no problem replacing it. It was very simple.

Refrigerator Running Warm, evaporator is not defrosting.

  • Customer: Edwin from Quincy, CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

freezer cold fresh food side not cold evaporator covered in ice.

  • Customer: Ignacio from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I changed the defrost thermostat and the evaporator thermistor and the main control board I didnt change the defrost heater because I tested it for continuity and it did have continuity, the freshfood section and freezer section thermistors had 16.3 k ohms + - 5 % so I didnt change those, and the problem got worst now the freezer section wont cool under 40 degrees and the fresh food section is about 50 - 60 degrees I might as well put the old board on at least the freezer was actualy freezing for a week or so, before it needed defrosting.
All Instructions for the PFS22SISBSS
346-360 of 471