PFS22SISBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

Seemed simple and intuitive B U T the water tube receiver fooled me. Seemed to be on backwards. So, like my wife suggested, I D I D then read the installation instructions. Yeah! It's amazing what you can do when you just RTI. :-0

very easy installation and speedy parts delivery. thank you

Replacing the main control board was not difficult. When I received the order confirmation from partselect.com they included a link to their repairman video for the part replacement. Unplug; unscrew the panel; unplug the wired connections from the old control board; do use pliers to squeeze the corner clips that hold the board in place and remove old board. Slide new board over the clips; plug in all the connectors (they each have different number of pins so you can't confuse them); replace the back cover and plug the refrigerator back in. Very quiet now; temperature controls work; freezer works and as an added bonus, the ice and water dispenser is also back in operation. I had thought it was a separate issue, but lo and behold, replacing the main control board fixed everything. Thank you partselect!

Freezer is located on the bottom. To acess the ice maker, entire contents of the freezer were removed. The power and water were shut off at the refrigerator. The shelves in the freezer were removed; the freezer door was removed;the shelve partitons/slides were removed. Sounds complicated, but the ice maker is located on the left side of the freezer and would be impossible to unscrew, remove, disconnect and install by touchy/feely method. Total time from start to finish was about 45min. Water filter: twist out twist in.

First, I had to remove the freezer drawer front. This is 8 large phillips head screws. then remove the plastic cover over the drawer slides. to do this, remove the white center screw from the slide near where it attaches to the drawer front. then the plastic cover will slide off pushing to the rear of the slide. take off the slides from the freezer walls by removing the phillips screws and pulling them towards you. They have tabs/slots in the rear. remove the center tray support and support bars, too. the icemaker has to come out, that is just 2 phillips screws but you also have to disconnect the electrical connector. just squeeze the locking wings and rock/pull. a screw in the top center of the back panel comes out. Lift and pull the back panel out. The evaporator coil appears. The thermocouple is attached to the coil in the upper right. Cut that one's wires and take it out. Just cut back about an inch from the back of the thermocouple, there is not much slack. Seperate and strip the wires back about 3/8 inch. Do the same for the new thermocouple. I twisted the wires together and used a solder sleeve to join the wires. The sleeve is just a little plastic tube that has a ring of solder in it that melts with heat gun heat. You can join the wires using butt connectors or whatever method appeals to you. I just wound the extra wire and put a cable tie around it, there is plenty of hiding space in that area. Make sure the new thermocouple is contacting the coil firmly.At this point, for a test, I left everything apart, propped the drawer against the opening and plugged the fridge in. Note that the evaporator fan will not start spinning immediately! It will just sit there making little bumps like it wants to go. The temp in the coil has to get settled before the electronics in the refridge will tell the fan to spin. It takes maybe 20 minutes. Reassemble. Fridge and freezer work great. It does take several hours for all to get cold again.

Replaced board, easy to diagnose and repair.

I watched the video that was provided by PartSelect. The process could not have been more straight-forward. After unplugging the fridge from the wall outlet, i unscrewed the 9 or so screws that attached the plate covering the circuit board, I carefully unplugged each of the wiring plugs that were attached to the circuit board, except for the plug providing power to the board. That one I was unable to unplug while the board was still attached to fridge. I then used a pair of needle-nosed pliers to release the 4 plastic clips that held the circuit board in place and removed the unit from its housing. I was then able to unplug the one remaining wiring plug. The new board had a slightly different design, so attaching the power to the board was easily done after mounting the new board onto the plastic clips. The entire process took me less than 5 minutes. I plugged the fridge back into the wall outlet and my refrigerator came back to life! Thank you PartSelect for helping to make the task so simple and straight-forward!

followed the instructions included with part. Basically removed metal cover, disconnected cables from board, released plastic clips that held board in place, followed instructions included to reconnect. My particular model did not have any wire loom modifications (it tells you if you need to based upon your model number prefix)

I started by Googling what causes a refrigerator to stop working. Step by step, I learned about a refrigerator components. Compressor, relay, capacitor, were good. Took the mother board out and noticed that portion of the back of it had blackened. I immediately remembered that we had two short power outages that day. Ordered the board through PartSelect- regular shipping. To my surprise I received the part in less than two days. Installed the mother board and cleaned up the area in 15 minutes. It's been 2 week since installation, and everything is good. FYI, now the refrigerator is on a 2150 Joules surge protector.

After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

Removed old ice maker, then screwed in new ice maker. Only thing that was a little difficult was to hold the auger motor, while trying to unplug the clipped in plug on the old ice maker. I could have used an extra pair of hands.

First tried the temperature sensor. Unfortunately, that did not correct the problem. Replaced the main control board and that did the trick. Before the freezer would go down to -10 to -20 now to the normal -5 to -10 range. Both repairs were simple following the directions.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!