NWSR483GB1WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Unplugged the dryer. Removed the top hood with a phillips screwdriver. Twisted out the old starter. Unplugged the connectors on the starter (they were not in the same location as the new starter but were numbered so I kept the numbers consistent. Put the new starter in and plugged in the connectors. Plugged in the machine - hit the "on" button and viola! Easy cheesy lemon squeezy.

Replaced power switch

I initially thought it was the clothes causing an imbalance, however upon further inspection I found the front felt bearing was shredded and missing, thus the loud noise.I retrieved my GE owners manual and went online, there I found the link to PartSelect. I found PartSelect was absolutely user friendly and even had DIY videos on the replacement, genius!I was able to order the parts I needed that night, and they were shipped to my doorstep within 3 days,unbelievable!I was able to make the repair quickly and safely.I plan to use PartSelect in the future, and recommend them to people I know.Thanks again

Parts arrived well in time, exactly what was needed. The latch was a snap-in process. The strike require gentile use of a pliers, and went in quickly. Thanks!

I didn't do it, my husband did all the work. He showed me which parts he thought was making the noise, which was kind of obvious. The small drum slide was melted, or something, it was gone. So we first ordered 1 slide and drum bearing, which fixed the noise, but he noticed the other drum slides were "gone" so I ordered another 2 of those. The dryer is back to its old self, not making any noise. We really didn't know what the problem was until looking on the site and seeing the most common problem, and luckily we got it fixed. I was ready to buy another new dryer.....good thing hubby wanted to work on it before buying....saved tons of cash.

Found PartSelect website went to the part of the site that gave brief detail of steps to take for repair.Proceeded to remove panels to expose problem area.Ordered parts that i seen were needed for the repair on Tuesday,recieved comformation on ordered parts after the parts were ordered.Recieved the parts next day Wed. Found I forgot to order all the parts,sent email to customer asst. was told part # I needed to order,ordered it on Wed. recieved it on Thurs. Finished repair.Ran dryer Thurs. Afternoon.Great Service, Customer Service Representative Lady Margaret was Great.I will never order Parts for my Appliances any were else. Thank you so much. Bud D.

It clicked right in. Thank you!

Watched the video associated with the repair and followed the instructions, it was easier that I thought it was going to be.

Take the old one out. Put the new one in. Really easy.

Hardest part was rustling up the proper screw driver. 1) Unplug dryer from outlet. 2) Pull plastic knobs off all switches. 3) Remove screws and remove control panel. 4) Remove rotary switch by gently prying up on hold-down arm and twisting entire switch mechanism. 5) Remove wires one at a time and attach to corresponding spade lugs on new switch. 6) Install switch and twist into place. 7) Replace panel. 8) Replace control knobs. Under 20 minutes.

First dis connect from power sourse remove knob and the four screws that secure that instrument panel from machine.With a simple twist removed the defective switch,inserted new switch, transfered wires from old switch to new, replaced the panel and knob, reconnected power cord and it's done. Total time for this repair was less than ten minutes.

new handle just popped right in the slots

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the rear cover of the control area by removing 3 phillips screws on the back of the dryer - There is also a lower small panel that will come out along with the rear control panel cover during this operation. Next I removed 4 T20 Star type screws on the top painted edge of the control panel. The panel then tilted forward allowing good access to the start switch. I removed the switch from the panel WITHOUT taking off the wires as I wanted to verify that I was getting the wires transfered correctly. Both the new and old switch have number designations by the connection terminals. Once I had transfered the wires to the new switch by associating the numbers on the switch. The terminal with two wires has a little adapter that comes out with the two wires. I placed the new switch into the hole on the control panel, gave it a twist to engage the holding clips and when rotated into place, the switch "clicked" as it locked the little arm that sticks out of the side of the switch into place. Reassembly of the panels was easy, just put the panels back into place and torque down the screws and replace the control knob. Even though I had to purchase a set of stardrivers to complete this repair, the whole repair process ran only $30.00 and I ended up owning a set of star-screwdrivers. The last time Mr. Repairguy was here it ran over $200.00! Also, the documentation offered by Parts Select made locating and getting access to the switch fairly easy.

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.

Had to tap three holes in the rear bearing to match the three attachment screws. Screw up with the part.