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Drum bearing and Lint Chute plastic was cracked.
The video of the dryer lint chute assembly showed the man without gloves. I didn’t wear gloves. When I disconnected the wire from the front panel assembly, my hand jerked and hit the side of the panel. It must have been razor blade sharp, because I got a deep cut. Advise people to wear gloves to protect hands from sharp metal.
After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part. Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am 83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY
Replace broken drum belt and belt idler pully wheel.
Watched video instruction, paying attention to what it showed in machine. Several virsions of similar designs over the years, look over yours and note access points, take pictures as you go! Just pay attention, it is very logical. Spread the side panels to get the drum in and out, and pay attention to drum axel in back and the bushing it rides in. Be patient, be firm but gentle, no real forcing needed if you are alligned. Be sure the grooves of belt are on the drum, drive wheel on motor, no twists. Reverse order to reassemble. There are several internet videos of models with same basic setup, so look at others if one doesn't show the detail you need to see, or clear some uncertainty. Your local hardware to sorce push fastening for the idler wheel to shaft if you mash it up, they are cheep and several styles will work.
Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her suggestions.
Rear drum bearing gone (only 4 years old). Decided to replace belt while I was at it.
I first watched the video on how to. Being mechecanically inclined I dismantled and removed everything needed to replace the drum bearing. Also removed belt at the same time. I replaced the bearing, then the belt. The belt could be a little tricky for some people. Getting the belt on the tension pulley could be a problem. What I did was I got a large nylon tie and put it around the armature of the motor. I then retracted the pulley just enough to be able to slip the belt over it. Of course this is all performed through the limited space on the bottom left, between the drum and the dryer shell. Once on the pulley, I cut the tie with wire cutters and it snapped into place. Rotated the drum a couple of times to line the belt with the pulley, perfect. I then put everything back together. I also cleaned any and all the lint that had gathered throughout the exhaust. Pluged the dryer in, perfect. Just like new. One more note getting the parts was so easy also. Your website and how to demo was a great help. Thank you, thank you very much. The words of the late Elvis Presley. They never get old.
The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.
Dryer started making screeching noises while running, got progressively worse. Without taking it apart first, I ordered a front drum bearing and slides because this site said it fixed the problem the majority of the time. The site said replace the slides in pairs, but there are actually four. I picked up 2 more at a local appliance store, at roughly twice the price. Turned out I didn't need th replace the plastic piece called drum bearing, just the 4 slides that clip onto it. It is really easy to get the top and front off with just a phillips screwdriver. I did not check the rear center main bearing, as it requred removing the drum. The squealing lessended but it still was bad. Took it back apart and pulled the drum, and fount the rear main bearing bad. I found one at the same local store for only 2 bucks more than on this site. This was a bit more of a hassle, you really need two people to get it mounted to the drum. Tip-pre thread the holes with the self tapping screws, it makes it easier to get it together. There was a bit of lint build up under the drum heating element cover, so it was good to clean that out. Also blew all the dirt out of the motor with compressed air and shop vac. There was a access panel on back to get to the motor and belt tensioner. Got the dryer all buttoned up and now it runs nice and quiet.
Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.
My husband and I had taken apart this dryer before, so the second time was a lot easier. The first time we took it apart it took 2-3 frustrating hours. So, if it's your first time, plan for longer.
1. Before we started anything we unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent. 2. We removed the top and loosened the contol panel on top. 3. We removed the front. Be careful of the wires. You can label them, or just remember where they go. 4. Lay the dryer down on it's back. This make's it easier to remove the drum. 5. Remove the drum, but gently slide the belt off first. Don't stretch the belt removing it. 6. Once the drum was removed, we removed the screws from the inside of the drum. 7. We didn't need to use the entire kit, just the part that sits in the center and spins...kinda looks like a top. (Yes, that's my technical description) 8. We screwed in the new "top" and put the dryer back together.
Really the only part I had to help with (this time)was putting the drum back in to make sure it sat where it was supposed to. It made a big difference that it was laying on it's back...we didn't do that the first time, which was part of our frustration.
Putting the belt back on is a little tricky too. We had instructions still for our dryer to refer to put it back on. If you don't have yours, just google or bing for the instructions. There's website's out there with great pictures.
Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.
i read in the forums about what was wrong and ordered the parts--they really need to tell you there are four bearing slides to be replaced-- you have to order singly. other than that - my grandson could repair it and the silence really is golden Moose
loud squeaking, and clothes hanging on the plastic
open door, remove two screws from below the top. gently remove the top from the side and bottom panels. remove two 5/16 screws from front panel hold panel so it does not fall. the bearing assembly will come out by moving the bearing towards the dryer, and pulling upwards. replace with new bearing, use 4 front dryer slides and reinstall the top and front panel. can be done in less than 15 minutes
had squilling noise.clothes get stuck in between top of drum and dryer
inside dryer door housing i removed two screws these hold top of dreyer on.pulled dryer top up and it unhooks from control panel.theres two more screws inside the front door asembly located at the top on booth sides.remove them and the front is free except for dryer door switch.lean it back far enough to unpug wires.lay door asembly on the floor.drum slide pops out with screw driver at the top the bottom just slides out.drum bearigs are plastic strips on the drum slide. pull the old ones out if their is any left.replace with new.you need four drum bearings.then put back together the ame as you took it apart. good luck terry
