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The old lint screen on the dryer was broken
I analyzed the situation to see how to remove the old lint screen. I carefully pulled out the old lint screen. I was careful not to drop it. With caution, I placed the old lint screen in the trash receptacle that was nearby. Next, I opened the box that the new lint screen came in with a sharp knife. I removed the new lint screen from the box, took off the plastic wrap and inserted the lint screen in the same slot that the old one used to be in. I tested that it was seated correctly by pulling it out and reseating it in the slot. The true test came when I ran my first load of laundry through the dryer. The total repair time for this fix was 14.92 seconds.
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.
Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE
Replaced belt while I was in there replacing motor
If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis: 1. Unplug dryer; 2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top; 2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket); 3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached); 4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front; 5. Unplug door switch; 6. Unscrew screws from #4; 7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips; 8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc. 9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order. If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.
After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.
Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.
After unplugging and removing the back cover from the dryer, locate the push button switch. Slide putty knife around outer cover to unhook catch. Replace with new push button switch. My dryer is still not working, but this was a simple replacement.
The dryer belt broke. During the effort to replace the belt it was noted that the lint trap housing seals were in need of replacement.
With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had covered the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.
Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.
While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.
Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:
I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.
The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.
The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.
The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.
The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.
The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.
Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.
With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.
The front of the dryer was attached .
The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.
The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.
The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.
The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.
1. Shut off gas and disconnected dryer. 2. Opened cabinet. Easy sheet metal screws and fairly obvious how everything goes together. NB: You'll need a block (or a helper to hold things while you run to look for one) to hold the drum while removing the front. 3. The motor is connected with a single harness, so wiring is a snap. 4. Removing the blower wheel from the back was hard. I braced the motor shaft and turned with all the leverage I could muster, but it was stuck. Plan B: Recip saw to cut the shaft. Motor comes out one side and the fan comes out the other. 5. The fan, of course, was unusable because there was still a piece of motor shaft stuck in the thread. This is why I had to spring for a new wheel. 6. Put everything back together and receive wife's adoring praise...