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Ice maker just stopped making ice
This was the third icemaker replaced since January 1999. Improvement need to be made in the design of the icemaker so that more than 2-3 years of life is available. The most difficult part was disconnecting the power plug in the back of the icemaker. You must squeeze the upper and lower tabs together and pull out at the same time to disconnect. Once this is done, take out one nut head screw, lift up on the icemaker and remove from the hanger. Be careful that you don't break the plastic tabs on the hangers. Replace new icemaker in reverse, feed water supply where it must go in the back, resnap onto hangers, replace the nut head screw and snap in the power plug. It took about 2 hours before the icemaker began making ice. It has been working fine ever since. PS. I saved about $200.00 over having a repairman come in and replace the unit.
Removed the 3 screws that hold the ice maker in place and remove the cover and level wire. Put the cover and wire on new part and install the 3 screws. Had ice within 1 hour. A very easy job for the do it yourselfer. Suspect the heat coil that melts the cubes was not working in the old unit and cubes stayed in the tray.
Remove two screws from top door hinge. Remove door from unit Remove old broken plastic cam 1 screw Replace new door cam tighten 1 screw Reinstall door and top hinge screws.
Removed the screws from the plate holding the valvefrom the frig. Removed the screws holding the valve to the plate. I took a picture with my digital camera before disconnecting any of the tubing or wiring to verify I put everything back the way it's supposed to go. I do this for most repair/replacement projects. Then I disconnected tubing and electrical connectors. Reinstalled new valve.
Super easy - emptied door of all food, unscrewed bracket from top of door, lifted door off and set aside. Broken cam removed, new one screwed in, and lubed with some Vaseline. Set door back in new cam, screwed bracket into the top, and good to go. I was kinda worried about shopping from PartSelect since I had never heard about them, but the part was here in less than 2 days. Pretty awesome little company.
I had to order three times before I got the right part. This was due to my rush to fix the problem and not studing the diagram carefully (black and white diagrams are not that clear). The repair was very simple. Just remove the rubber from the plastic door and slip on the new one.
I removed the two screws on the Ice dispenser housing and dropped it down. I catalogued all the electrical connections on a piece of paper for reassembly and basically followed my nose. I gave my wife the honor of testing it and I held my breath. Replacing this part was a breeze and it functioned perfectly when the job was completed. I wish I had done this three years ago when it failed! Thanks very much !!
Refrig began to trip the GFI circuit in the garage. When plugged into a house interior circuit the lights and fan ran but no cooling in either the freezer or frig.
First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!
ice maker dripped water into ice bin, freeezing into large block of ice,
turn off water and unplug fridge. remove ice maker bottom mounting screw. just loosen the 2 top mounting screws. unplug wire harness from back of fridge. remove old icemaker from freezer compartment. once removed, salvage square endcover and reinstall on new maker. unfasten wire harness from old maker and reinsatll on new one. reinsert thermal wire in new ice maker holding bracket. remove second wiring bracket and reinstall on new maker to hold remaining wires (not mentioned on "how to-" video). remove old ice maker on/off bale and reinstall on new one. remount new maker to top mounting screws, reinsert harness plug into fridge. replace bottom screw,
We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.
Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.
It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.
But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.
I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.
Amana Side by Side - refrigerator side began to not cool, freezer side froze up
Problem led to 3 possible problem parts, defrost thermostat, defrost heater or defrost control board. Defrost heater ohmed out to 31 ohms, so seemed good. Defrost thermostat was open when warm but was open after running refrigerator to get freezer side cold enough for thermostat to close, it did not I thought. So I ordered thermostat. Once part came in, I cut up a couple inches on orange and brown wires, stripped off enough to work with. I soldered new one in and heat shrunk the wires. I turned on and it seem to work and all night. Working fine right now.
I checked previous installation instructions posted on your website. Since the facade is a peel and stick, I used a hair dryer to soften the old facade and was then able to just peel it off. I applied heat to one side for about 5 minutes. I then applied the new facade.
I simply removed the old dual valve and installed the new one. The lines were a snap to remove and replace. I couldn't be happier with the PartSelect web site and prompt delivery of the part.
