Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Door Seal was falling apart
Replacing the door seal only involved unscrewing about 50 screws, attaching the new seal, & screwing all 50 screws back in. I'm glad I have a good electric screwdriver. The hard, if not impossible part, is trying to get the door to seal properly again. At first the door wouldn't close all the way, so after 2 hours of tinkering, it will close now, but the top left corner of the magnetic gasket will not seal no matter what.
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
removed card board protection.4 screws. Unpluged refrigerator unscrewed the screw holding the valve but not all the way. disconnected the electric connection. removed the water connection after disconnecting the main water valve. replaced valve by reconnecting everything. Turned on water to check for leaks. Easy fix and recieved the part sooner then expected. Will highly recomend your fast service and correct part replacement. web site was easy to use. THANK YOU
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
I removed all contents from the lower shelf. I, then removed both of the pull out drawers. Secondly, I removed the lower glass shelf and the glass support tray. At this point all four plastic shelf supports were accessible. I removed the inner screw from all four supports and replaced with four new shelf supports. Then reassembled in reverse order. Very easy to do!
Diagnosis: Defrost timer tested fine for continuity. Removed relay/capacitor unit from compressor (carefully). Tested compressor connections for continuity (OK). I tested the connection paths from timer to compressor and they were fine. At this point, I figured it could only be two things: [1]bad compressor or [2] bad relay/capacitor. I put the odds on the relay and bet the $70 on the part. Before installation, I marked the timer position with a sharpie. It's located on the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment. After the part installation, the compressor kicked in, purring quietly. Condenser coils warm, Evaporator coils cold. After a few hours I had ice in the freezer. I checked the timer markings with a compact mirror. It had advanced over a half turn, assuring that the timer motor functions. . Next, I went to the grocery store.
One pair of freezer door stop basket brackets broken
First I used needle-nose pliers to remove broken hooks from the door. (One of the broken hooks slipped down inside the door and could not be retrieved. It will not create a problem is you cannot remove broken hooks.) I examined the hooks against the bracket to check the hook orientation (up or down ... they faced down). Next I searched online for the parts and discovered my door decal model number needed one or more letters, and I could not find the serial number. I only knew it was a 10 year old Maytag model RSW2400E.
All online websites (no matter what model version I used) said the basket door stop brackets were obsolete and no longer available. I finally found Partselect.com and used their easy search system to find pictures and descriptions of the parts. But I could only find parts with upward facing hooks. I was concerned but decided to take a chance and ordered them because they looked like they might fit. I had nothing to lose since the original parts are no longer available. When the new parts arrived, they looked just like the broken ones except for the hook orientation, and the packaging listed them correctly as "STOP. BASKET (LT) part #61004465" and "STOP.BASKET (RT) part #61004466". I held them up to the door (while still in the packaging) and they looked good.
INSTALLATION: First, I inserted the left-hand bracket hooks into the door panel holes (you can start with either the left or right side) and gave it a little push and it snapped into place. The hooks and the little stop node fit perfectly and flush. YES!
Second, I took the basket, and making sure it was facing the correct direction for tilting in and out, I inserted the basket pivot post into the pivot hole on the stop bracket (making sure that I had the basket frame to the inside of the stop so that the basket would catch and be stopped when tilted out).
Third, I got the right-hand bracket and inserted it onto the other basket pivot post BEFORE I installed the right-hand bracket into the door.
Lastly, while holding the basket and the bracket together, I inserted the bracket into the door and pushed it into place.
I checked the basket operation. It tilted perfectly. There were no clearence issues. WOOHOO! Job done in less than 5 minutes, THANK YOU PARTSELECT.COM
I would only ask Partselect to adjust the online description to "Door Basket Stop - Left Hand and Right Hand" (Door Shelf Retainer Bracket is not correct.)
(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!
The repair goes much easier if the door is removed. The door is bulky and that's the difficult part. Once its on the table, unscrew to get old one off, put new one in place and re screw. (there are many screws) Then bulky door needs to be placed back onto the refrigerator. Again difficult positioning, weight, bulky. The door comes off and goes on very easily (2 mins to get off, 10 to put back on). Just 3 lower screws. This job could have taken less than an hour if I had started with a removed door.
I called a repair man from a pretty large name to come out and take a look. He found out in about 10 minutes that it was a bad capacitor. The quote he gave me was $75 for the part and $175 labor. I tried my best not to laugh and tell him no thank you. He did have to charge me for him to show up, which was only $98. So I used what he told(minus the "scrap it") and opened it back up. Although he had left wires everywhere and the broken pieces laying inside, I thought it was enough for me to order the part. PartSelect was very easy to navigate and ordering was a breeze. Took about 4 days to get the part and I ordered in the X-mas craze. Fixed it in about 15 minutes.
Sides and door frames of the refrigerator warm to the touch.
Confirmed the condenser fan was the problem when I noted it was not running when the compressor was on. Removed 3 mounting screws, unpluggede the fan. Removed and replaced the mounted flange(3 screws) and remounted. Plugged in fan and it started running.
Thanks for the diagrams and quick delivery. This is the second repair on appliances I have made with your parts and probably saved $300-400 in service calls.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
Broken left side slide rail for the meat/cheese bin
Removing the broken rail was very difficult. There is a small notch that actually holds it in place. To remove the old rail, there was a hole in the metal bracket next to where the notch was. You had to apply pressure through the hole to the rail to slightly bend it to get it to release the notch to slide the old rail out. After the old rail was removed, the new rail with rack wheel installed, slid in and snapped into place very easily.
