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Freezer Iced Up/Refrigerator Warm
Defrost circuit was inside the control assembly inside the refrigerator so I snapped the two release clamps located to the rear of the assembly (lights and controls). Slid the whole assembly cover off and removed the lightbulbs and two screws right above them. In from of that is the temp switches and directional slider, removed the two screws holding that. With the four screws out, removed whole assembly and laid it dowm on the first shelf, defrost circuit is at the back right, easy change out but take note which way the 4 prong plug fits into the circuit board. Refrigerator was back to normal in about 6 hours.
Replaced old dual outlet water valve with new design, which eliminates the (reportedly) troublesome "y" connector. A relatively simple matter of unplugging the refrig., turning off the water that feeds the ice maker and removing the cardboard/fabric service panel at the bottom rear of the refrig. Removed one screw with a nutdriver, disconnected the valve from both lines and out came the old valve with little fanfare. Next, as I replaced the valve with the new and improved version, cut out the "y" connector and used the supplied union and tubing to connect to the existing water line (just upstream from where the "y" connector was). Then, as my water/ice dispenser was sticking "on", I went ahead and replaced the rubber activator and internal switch. This just required moving a few hex screws on the front part of the dispenser to gain access to the parts. A relative snap and now all is working well.
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.
I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.
I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!
Vegetables kept freezing regardless of temp setting.
I noticed that the thin plastic flap was missing. I squeezed the housing, unsnapped and pulled. INstalling the new part was just the reverse. No more frozen vegetables.
Lower hinge (door closer) was worn out, so door wouldn't close on its own.
Simple. Removed all food and shelves from the door. Removed the top hinge, which allowed me to lift the door off the door closer. I layed it on the kitchen table on its front with the handle over the edge so it wouldn't cause a problem. Since I had it all apart I replaced both the top and bottom pieces of the door closer, and put a touch of grease on it. I then reassembled it in the reverse order. - The fountain spring and actuator pad were for a different problem with the fountain. It wouldn't shut off all the time because the actuator pad was getting stiff from time and use. I removed A/C power and turned off the water, then removed the front screws from the fountain cover. I then had easy access to the actuator pad, which only took a few minutes to replace. Careful when you pull the cover off, there are wires connected to it. Just don't forget to pull the plug out off the wall so you don't get killed!
The part that closes with the solenoid broke off and did not close the ice maker
I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then unscrewed the four remaining screws with a star screwdriver and pulled the element out and disconnected the wire. I removed the part containing the solenoid, spring loaded holder and the plastic closer. I did not need to replace the solenoid or the spring loading device only the round circular piece that opens and closes the ice door. I just snapped it into the spring loaded part and replaced everything as I had removed it. It was very simple. Your need the star screwdriver though for removing the screws.
Turn off freezer. Pull the shelves out of freezer. Remove two screws that hold on back panel. Melt ice off of cooling fins with hair dryer. Remove heating element by unplugging heating element on top of fins, pull off wiring with small unit clipped to tubing, slide the wires out from the side of the fins, and pull off clip on the bottom of the cooling fins that holds heating element. To install new part I just reversed these steps.
Defrosted coils with hair drier and after the freezer was turned back on the freezer cooled to 0 Deg. within 4 hours but coils collocted ice. Checked coil with ohmmeter OK replaced Defrost Assy. Repair was very easy and new replacment unit is sealed and the original is an open curcuit board. thanks for allowing me to share this with you!
This is the 2nd time I replaced the ADC, the freezer condenser was frosting up again and wouldn't keep the freezer or refrig cold. 1st part only lasted 6-months. The simple fact is that the ADC used in the Maytag as well as others is under designed; I purchased 2-this time, 1's a spare, and you know it going to need to be replaced again. Sadly I'm stuck with this Refrigerator for at least 2-years before I buy another, it's only 5-years old. From my experience (with other Maytag products I've purchased recently) I'd never buy another Maytag product, ever! Since Whirlpool bought Maytag, I'm taking Whirlpool off my list too. Thanks Partselect for such a speedy delivery on the part everything back to normal, at least for now, wished I knew how long this ADC will last?
I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!
Door flap not opening correctly and noise when pushing button for water
This repair was relatively easy due to the instructions provided and took about 15 minutes. Originally, I had bought a door flap thinking that was the problem (a small plastic piece on the flap had broken off) but after replacing that the assembly still would not allow ice flow. I then purchased the kit including solenoid and the repair worked. I had a bad solenoid all along. My suggestion is to replace the entire kit rather than one part as it is likely all parts need replacement.
From the beginning I have never had good water flow in the door and ice cubes turned out funky. I tried replacing the filter once with hardly noticeable change. The change I did see was $35 less in my pocket. So I bought a filter bypass plug and it now works like a champ. I have well water so I trust its quality and I am very satisfied. I would describe how I did the repair but if you don't no how to change out the filter you probably shouldn't be trying it.
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
