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Our Ice Maker drove us nuts with noise from cubes getting stuck.
I purchased the replacement part (no instructions sheet) from another company, not this one, that cost 2X's a much as this company. So I sent it back and ordered from this company. Got it faster then the post office sends us the stamps we order by internet and this ice maker had instructions. Our's is a side by side refrig, so working space is limited but do-able. The old ice maker has made a clicking noise for years while trying to push the cubes out of the tray. They would get stuck and refreeze, sticking half way out of the tray. I loosened the 2 screws with a socket driver (which are difficult to see), raised the unit up and off the screws. Unplugged the power & out it came. Removed the bracket on the side as instructed to attach to the new ice maker and in the trash the ol' ice maker went. Set the new ice maker on the screws, plugged in the power, tightened the screws and walla. A quiet ice maker. In fact, it would startle us the first day as we didn't hear the clicking noise indicating it was stuck. All of a sudden the cubes just dropped into the container. Alright! Don't know why I didn't do this years ago.
Removing the old unit was easy enough, just loosened two screws that attach unit to side of freezer and disconnected the wiring harness. But the new unit never goes in quite as easily because it's always just a little different from the original. In this case, the wiring ended up being about six inches longer and the excess had to be stuffed behind a shield at the rear of the unit. Theoretically, the wire could have been pushed back through the opening, but it got jammed and wouldn't go. I had to remove side rails and pry the shield forward in order to get the wiring back out of the way. The unit is a narrow side by side, so there wasn't a lot of room to move around. But it wasn't difficult, just tedious. I had to make sure the wiring did not come into contact with the heating element at the bottom of the icemaker. Once installed it worked great.
Defrost function in freezer was not working, while the refrigerating side was warm
1. Turned off and unplugged the refrigerator. 2. Removed the lower back panel inside the freezer with a screwdriver. 3. Unplugged the thermostat. (No tool is needed) 4. Ordered a new thermostat from PartSelect and it arrived in 2 business days. 5. Plugged in the new thermostat.. 6. Put the lower back panel inside the freezer with screwdriver. 7. Plugged in the Refrigerator and turned the power back on. 8. It is working again!!!
un plug fridge. removed ice maker from fridge. loosen 2 mounting screws. lift unit in slots to get over heads of screws. unplug wire harness. remove cover. remove 3 screws from control housing. remove 2 motor mounting screws. unplug motor wires from switches w/needle nose. installation is the reverse. plug in fridge turn on icemaker. takes 10 to 15 min to start to cycle. easy and cheaper than new fridge or ice maker
Ice maker stoped working and the water dispenser also stopped working at different times.
Pulled unit away from the wall. Removed backing from lower controls and compressor. Unhooked water lines and wires to solonoids and removed malfunctioning valve. Hooked new valve to the the plastic water lines, connected wires and mounted new valve to the back support plate.
I removed the old gate by using a flat head screw driver to pry open mouth. I then removed 2 bolts that held on the cage that hols the ice crushing blades. Then I inserted the new gate and used a screw driver to pry the mouth open again (it was more difficult to insert than remove). I then popped in the new gate and re-assembled the cage. It worked on the first shot with no problems!
This is the 3rd time I have attemped and successfully repaired major home appliances myself after the warrenty ran out. I'm sure I could buy a new appliance for the money I saved.
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and replaced unit. Works fine ever since.
The freezer coil was frosting up blocking airflow to refrigerator side
I first unplugged the refirgerator. Note the time because the refrigerator should be unplugged at least 30 minutes before plugging back in (see end for why). A trouble light is necessary to see adequately. I removed the shelves and draws and put food in a picnic cooler. I took off the lower panel in the back of the freezer, and defrosted the coils with a hair dryer. I unplugged the wires to the defroster, and then the screw holding the coil to the back of the freezer side. I lifted up on the coil unit to clear the blade that inserts into the drain. I removed the bands on the top of the coil that hold the heating unit in place. I tilted the bottom out when there was clearance, and pulled the defrosting unit down and out. I replaced the new one, and reversed the procedure, and then plugged the wires back into the new defroster unit. The bands on the top should be secured before putting the coil back in place, as well as the foam spacers on top of coil, put the two wires back in the plastic clip that keeps them away from the fan and pipes. Replace lower freezer cover panel and screws. Put shelves and food back in. If at least 30 minutes have passed, plug the refrigerator back in. If you don't wait that long, their will still be pressure in the compressor and it will not start to cool properly right away. It works perfectly now. TIP: check the end of the drain hose periodically by taking off the lower back cover and pull th hose out - not hard to do. Mine plugged from dust and lint build up backing up into the end of the hose so water didn't drain out, and ice built up causing the defroster coil to burn out. I cut a little off the hose so the water level would not rise up into the hose, but the hose would still stay in place in the plastic holder.
Remove back panel inside Freezer compartment remove 2 screws that hold (small) fan motor. Unplug electric motor supply and install new motor in reverse order
frezer not staying cold enough to freze newly added product
took the shelves out, unscrewed the rear panel,unpluged the thermistat and uncliped it from the line.Replaced with new thermistat in the reverse order. Before turning the unit back on,allowed the coils to defrost.All of the process was shown in your vidio that I was able to view while ordering the part. Thank you
