Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
I followed the steps from online videos to determine where the leak was coming from (cleaned the pump filter, still leaking; checked gasket and inlet hoses).
Finally, I discovered a wet area and cut on the drum-to-pump hose. When I removed the hose, I found that the culprit was a credit card that had broken into shards and slit the side of the hose. I was happy to see it was from the previous owners, which meant it wasn't my fault!
I did have a hard time removing the clamps (double-wire "rotor clip" or "spring clamps", according to Google) holding the hose to the drum and pump. This became a problem when replacing the hose as well. I was not strong enough to squeeze the ends together to loosen the clamp.
Getting the old hose off was easy enough, as was putting the hose back on. The problem was clamping it back on, as I mentioned.
I tried using zip ties, but this was a disaster! I tested it using a rinse and spin cycle, and the zip tie seemed to hold. However, the hose slid off during the first full cycle I ran and dumped at least 15 gallons of water on the floor. Clean up was not fun!
My recommendation (and what I finally went with) is to use hose clamps with the small screw that lets you tighten the clamp with a screw driver. I used that on both the connection to the drum and the connection to the pump and I've had no issues since.
Overall, it's a quick fix once you have the hose replacement and the right parts. If I'd gotten the hose clamps right away, I could have been done in 30 minutes.
Removed top of washer. Removed top front panel. Removed old front panel clamp. Removed front door panel. Removed old tub clamp. Then removed torn tub seal. Installed new tub seal. Needed two sets of hands to install new tub seal. Pretty tight installing the new tub seal around drum lip. Might be a good idea to heat up or let your new tub seal soak in water prior to installation. Once tub seal was installed, I installed new tub clamp then re-installed the door switch. After that, I put the front door panel back on. Then tightened down the door switch. Finally, I installed the top front panel and then the top of the washer.
no drain, and pin hole in hose causing slight leak
The most time consuming part was fitting the hose back on because of the confined space. Once on the rest was a snap. The drain pump installed just the same as the video, so watch the video! I think in total it took about 30 minutes to complete.
Remove old belt, rotate large washer belt wheel, guiding belt off large wheel. Guide new belt onto Washer Large Wheel. Use a pair of pliers to hold belt onto wheel as one turns the large washer belt wheel, guiding belt onto wheel. Note belt will be tight. Seems like belt will not fix but keep going it will fit, you might even hear it pop on. Old Part number (W10116215) new replacement Part number (W10388418). New replacement washer belt fits tight, that is ok.
Unplugged washer , used shop vac to drain water through drain hose on washer. Removed both hoses from old pump. Removed electric plug, removed 2 screws from bottom of the pump. Then reverse the process.
Easier if you block up front feet on 2x4 blocks. remove bottom front panel. Remove detergent dispenser tray. Remove top front panel. On door remove large round retainer clamp to bellows. (Pop off with screwdriver.) Remove door. Remove inner bellows clamp. Use phillips screwdriver to loosen it. If the input water filler hose is in the way, pull it out, but don't forget to put it back on or a flood will ensue!! Replace by doing everything in reverse order.
Used suggestions on list - water to lubricate bellows and an extra hand to secure the bellows. Biggest challenge was seating the bellow that attaches to the rim of the outer tub. After getting the bellow lip seated the rest was fairly easy including the bellow seat that secures to the outer door assembly. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that the bellow was the problem even though the symptoms - leaking under the door - was the same as noted on the list of problems. Had to order the dispenser-to-tub hose as that looks to be the problem (had to contort to follow the leak all the way up to the hose).
Only needed a pair of pliers for the clamps on the hoses connected to the pump. Removed the old pump ( no tools needed) and reinstalled the hoses. Works like a charm!
This repair is something even the most casual DIY'er could accomplish. What made this even easier for me was the fact that my washer was on a pedestal so accessing the 1/4" screws were extremely easy. There is no need to tilt or lift the washer. Just open the drawer and all three screws are visible. It also made draining the water out of the washer very convenient. The video perfectly describes how to accomplish the repair and allowed me to diagnose the problem by taking off the panel, opening the trap door and allowing the water to drain into a small trashcan until all the water is removed. I could physically see that the impeller was detached from the motor and found the culprit that caused the problem - a small vile of eye drops... From there, ordered the pump, two days later, replaced it with the new and I swear the new pump must be stronger than the original because towels come out near dry after a spin cycle. Very satisfying repair!
