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I was getting a sewer smell when the washer drained I did every cleaning technique and didn't solve the problem then I cleaned the inside drain hose and that helped so I replaced the hose and problem solved.
I removed the back panel to access the top end of the hose then I removed the lower front panel to access the lower end of the hose that attaches to the pump. The hose is secured with spring clamps and they were removed with pliers, the panels are secured with screws.
I replaced the hose and reinstalled the panels and I was done.
First tilt the washer back so you can drain water from the lines to the pump and the pump itself. Disconnect the lines with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver to move the rubber stopper so that the pump will move to the right. With pump now in position to lift up and out of the washer , do it so you can disconnect the wire assembly. Replace the pump starting with the wires, then slide it in place and secure it with the rubber stopper. Attach the lines and make sure they are well sitted and clamped. set on feet and you are ready to wash.
It wouldn't drain anymore so I started looking on the internet for a solution. I came upon this website and found the part I needed. It was easy to install. It fixed the problem I had with the washer.
I just took off the old part and installed the new one. The new part was a bit different.
Since i knew the filter was cleared of obstructions I knew the code issue was something more serious. After consulting with local repair reps I decided that the drain pump was beginning to slow down causing the faults. First, I took the lower front panel off the front of the washing machine so that I could drain the water out of the plumbing. After draining the water out of the pump into a pan, I went ahead and then lifted the front of the washer (and dryer on top of it) and tilted it back far enough so that my wife could place some blocking under the front of the washer. I did this so that I could access two screws on the bottom of the pump. First disconnect the wire socket connection to the motor. Make sure power is off before doing this. There is plastic clip holding the wires to the motor that may need a screwdriver to pry it apart for removal. There are two 1.5" long screws holding the pump to the frame that require at least 4" of space so that you can remove them with a socket. After removing the two pump screws I disconnected both pump hoses from the pump. This requires pliers for one clamp and screwdriver or nut driver for the other clamp. My machine originally came with one clamp that could not be removed, so I had to use a dremel with a stone to cut the clamp. You have to be careful to not damage the hose when cutting the clamp if it cannot be removed with tools. I replaced it with a 2" typical standard stainless steel hose clamp. Carefully wiggling the pump while pushing it to the side it will loosen up so that the front of the pump can be pulled up. One side needs to have the plastic plate pried apart from underneath and after removing it the pump will come free to lift out. Reverse the removal process for re-installation. It is a little tricky holding the squeeze clamp open while pulling the hose onto the pump, but it is not too difficult. Before putting the front panel on run one load of laundry to make sure there are no leaks. Once you find there are no leaks, then tilt the machine up and back to reattach the front panel. It is much easier to do it this way than with the machine on the floor since the panel screw are on the bottom of the panel at floor level.
F 21 code kept appearing even though trap clean out was clear.
Replaced drain pump took longer to soak up water than actually replacing the pump motor with mine having the pedestal underneath I did not have to tip the washer at all so it was fast and easy. Three screws taking the front cover off a screwdriver lifting the Rubber and sliding the motor off and pair of pliers 4 to hose clamps making it a breeze.
Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
Remove old belt, rotate large washer belt wheel, guiding belt off large wheel. Guide new belt onto Washer Large Wheel. Use a pair of pliers to hold belt onto wheel as one turns the large washer belt wheel, guiding belt onto wheel. Note belt will be tight. Seems like belt will not fix but keep going it will fit, you might even hear it pop on. Old Part number (W10116215) new replacement Part number (W10388418). New replacement washer belt fits tight, that is ok.
