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Replacing the heat sensor following an F-24 Error Notice.
I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!
The washer machine didn’t start the cycle. Had a weird sound. Then f 30 was ther error code. With research internet it was easy to know about the motor dispenser problem
I did follow step by step your YouTube video. I’m a woman. There was nothing heavy in the process. You have to be careful that’s it. Thank you for the instructions. I fixed it with the YouTube tutorial you provided. Really nice from you people.
replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.
Washer was filling up with water when not on or running.
Removed old valve and replaced it following the directions provided. Then flushed out intake hoses and cleaned aerators. Easy repair. Your directions were very helpful and user friendly!
The electronic control board had to be replaced as per Error Codes
Note: unplug washer / shut off circuit breaker, either will work * Remove the top: 3 screws in back of washer. Detach the wires, all color coded and can't be mistaken to fit elsewhere, but be careful, there is a tab which needs to be pushed away for wires to come off of the board. Side wires are color coded, but I took a picture to make sure no mistakes. Remove the ECB by using a screwdriver to push tab away that sticks out toward the back from metal frame then slide part out carefully pushing and gently pulling, may have to wiggle it a bit. Replace new part by putting wires back in it's place. Slide the backside against metal frame and lock in place with a click.
Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.
Took door off with a Phillips screwdriver went to hardware store with door so he could match up the 6pt screwdrivers that were needed. No more then 1 hour to do.
I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.
The repair was simple as you can imagine. Thought I could buy these legs at any big box store or at least at the local hardware store. No such luck. Partselect had the right product---easy to order and easy to install. Things around here are great.
Broken Strike on Washer Door - prevented door from latching, and washer would not start
The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.
Removed rear cover (6 screws) unpluged harness from motor control and removed same. Replaced motor control reinstalled harness. Replaced rear cover. Parts used motor control board.
Shut off water and disconnect hot and cold hoses. Use nut driver to remove three screws at back/top of washer. Slide top of washer back and up to remove. Use pliers to loosen band clamp on rubber hose and pull away from valve assembly. With fingers, disconnect wiring from hot and cold solenoids. Use allen wrench to remove valve assembly from frame of washer. Use reverse order to install replacement valve, although you can leave the top off the washer until you've checked for leaks.