MFW9800TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Unplug electric. Open door. Peel rubber bladder back from washer door seal enough to expose wire retension ring. Remove three screws that hold door latch. Remove latch. Remove three wire harnesses. With new latch, reattach wire harnesses. Insert latch. Secure to machine with the three screws. Refit door seal and secure with retension ring. Plug in electric. Done.

Had to open the panels, remove the old drain pump and install the new one. Remember if there is water still in the hose to either take it out with a wet/dry vacuum or put towels under neither to sook the water. 15 minutes of work and your done.

We followed another very helpful repair story. Unplug machine. Unscrew top back screws, remove top of washer. Reach inside from the top in the front of the machine. Remove screws holding latch in place, unplug the three plugs attached to latch. Replace with new door latch, screw it in place, replug the three plugs, put top of machine back on, replace screws on back and your'e done! Works great! Job made easy thanks to others helpfulness!

Disconnected power. Turned of the water supply. Removed/disconnected the water lines from the washer. Removed the top by removing three screws. Disconnected the wires/connectors from the valve assembly. Disconnected the water line from the valve assembly to the dispenser assembly. Removed the screw holding the valve assembly on. Installed the valve assembly and reversed the above procedure.

Replaced pump assembly

It took me a minute to put the baffle in place. The piece got here in one day. I would order again from here if I ever need any parts for any of my appliances. Thanks Anne B.

Plastic door hook was broken in half and door lock (DL) error code was showing-- though the hook was still in the door (each half held in by its own screw) and the door actually felt as if it was still latching o.k. After reading some things online, I though it was worth buying new hook since it was cheap, and giving it a try. Got it for a total of about $11.00 a little over 48 hours after placing order. It took about a minute to put it in. Then, tried to start the washer and "Voila"-- same error code still appeared! Read some more stuff online and saw a recommendation for "restting" this error by unplugging and replugging the pink wire harnesses at the back left of the top of the machine, after taking off the top (held on by just 3 screws at the back edge). So I did this (after first unplugging power cord), and this time "Voila", it worked! So I assume the error code was initially caused by the broken plastic hook, but the code stayed in the system (even though I had also tried unplugging the power earlier)- and then was cleared off when I did wired harness unplug/replug operation. So the situation was a little puzzling, but still an "easy fix" overall.

The washer tech manual stated to: 1) remove the top, 2) control console, 3) front below the door (front load washer), 4) remove the retaining wire, 5) pull back the rubber bellows, 6) remove the three screws and remove the door latch/lock assembly. I discovered that steps 1 through 3 are not required to replace the assembly. Installation is the reverse of steps 4 through 6. That was easy. The difficult part was figuring out how to reset the pressure switch so the drain pump would not start every time you reconnected to the power supply (pressure switch thinks the washer still contains water). With the power disconnected, I disconnected the pressure switch from the central control unit. Then I reconnected the power supply and pressure switch. That reset the pressure switch solved the problem with the drain pump. Washer works fine now.

Unplug washer. Open door. Look at the very bottom of the bellow and will see a spring that is connected to a small wire that runs around the bellow holding the outside on. Using a flat head screw driver insert it between the wire and bellow, pull down slighty. Grab the wire and gentley pull off. Now the outer part of the bellow will be free, pull it toward you, and off the water/soap despinser, then push it into the washer. Now look to the right side and you will see a screw head that is actully a big clamp ring around the bellow. This is the hardest part. Use a small rachet screw driver with a 7mm socket to lossen. Pull clamp off gently, you can now removwe the bellow. Put bellow back on in reverse. There will be a small tab on the bellow it goes to the top. Took about 2 hours.

This took ten minutes .... super easy .... DO IT YOURSELF!!!! About 75.00 with shipping ... can only imagine this woulkd have been 250 to 300 to have somebody com e onsite.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.

It was a little difficult to put the new Bellow in place on the tub, due to the fact you have to basically push the outside of the Bellow all the way into the tub so you can install the tub clamp. The other difficult part of the task was tightening up the clamp it's self. There really isn't a lot of room to move your hand around in the space you are given to work. But after a few hand cramps and a few things said, that are not needing repeated, I was able to get the clamp tight. Once you have the clamp on the tub, it's basically pretty simple to slide everything else into place. The wire/spring clamp that is used to attach the Bellow to the front of the washer is fairly simple to put into place with a little patience. All in all it was a cheep and easy repair for a due-it-your self repair.

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.