MER5730AAL Maytag Range - Instructions

Real easy to do. I just unscrewed from back pulled out until wire can out of back then seperated from wire. Took out element put new one in. Real easy didn't even need my husband

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.

very very easy. but keep in mind that step one, killing the power at the power box. I jumped that one to a near disastours outcome, thankully all turned out well byt there was a hell of bang and VERY bright flash. Still was worth "doing it yourself" just keep in mine the cut power side...Safety first!!!

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. I then pulled the element and wiring out until I saw the connecter. I disconnected the two wires and then chose the correct connector from the package, snapped it back into place, put the screws back, turned on the breaker then tested the oven and found that everything was working correctly.
This is the second time I have ordered from Part Select, the first time was for a front LED panel on the same appliance. With the help finding the part you need and the comments from other customers I have saved a lot of money by repairing these problems myself. Oh, and the best part is the look on my husband's face when he came home and found out the repairs were made by me and not a repairman that he said I should call. He said he would laugh when the first repair by me didn't work but who's laughing now : )

removed the screws,pulled the element out about 3 inches disconnected the 2 wires

As the video described I just unscrewed the sensor from inside the oven. Although I couldn't pull the wiring harness through the insulation (the wires were gathered in back with a wire tie) just four screws to loosen the back panel for access to the connection. My wife says it seems to be heating perfectly now.

I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory.
Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal.
Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.