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Dryer motor bearings failed. Motor wouldn't start.
Disassembled dryer. That was the hard part. Figuring out how to get the top off the dryer so I could get the drum out took the most time. The end caps on the control panel had to be removed by forcing them outward to release the plastic catches. Then the bottom corner screws were removed to allow the panel to swing up out of the way. The top panel could now be removed. To gain access to the belt and tensioner the blower and ducting off the front of the motor had to be removed to remove the belt. Now the drum was able to be lifted out. The motor swap was a cinch with no wiring modifications required. Reassembly was the reverse, with the most difficult thing being tightening up the blower fan. This required putting a wrench on the belt end of motor shaft and holding it while reaching thru a narrow gap on top of the fan ducting.
intermittent shut down and alarms, The right side of front panel buttons not working
Replaced the front panel electronic control board, now works perfectly. Note: part received did not quite fit right in the front bezel assy. I ended up making the Wrinkle shield and Temperature select button holes in Bezel slightly larger so buttons would not rub when pressed. I also recommend ordering a new select knob if you have an older machine as ours cracked when removed.
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
Old. Original heat seal was deteriorated and peeling off. Streaks were getting on the clothes.
Removed the front panel, removed the tub and removed the old seal. Tub seal area was scraped, sanded and wiped with acetone to ensure a clean. Bonding surface. Applied adhesive with and acid brush to get a consistent adhesive layer without getting too much in any one place. Seal was a bit smaller than the tub circumference so it had to be stretch to fit. While the adhesive was curing , I took the time to clean the contact surfaces and vacuum the lint from inside the cabinet. Reinstalled the tub, drive belt and front panel.
A) Watched video of repair on site.B) Looked around for competitive prices and decided on PartSelect because of original parts, price, and 1 year guarantee.C) Proceeded to take dryer apart like video showed. Error was my dryer front panel has two screws covering the heater box and that was all I needed to remove and replace heater instead of dismantling the back. Good news though was, I removed all the lint build up in the machine so not a waste of time. Be sure not to touch the new heater wire coils as oil from your hands will destroy the heater prematurely. Heater was original Whirlpool ! I'm a happy camper.
1.Removed lower dryer cover - two screws. 2.Tested heating element circuit including high temp cutoff, - Heating element circuit was "open" so I first tested the heating element - "open" so I removed one screw on the side and removed the element - element broken. 3.Ordered the part - good price and the deliver was great, three days. 4. Cleaned any lint up and Installed the new heating element and front panel 5. Heated right up - probably saved myself a good $100 for less than thirty minutes of work!!!!
The pulley is accessible from the back of the dryer. Disconnect the gas line. Remove all the screws. Also remove the small plate that secures the line cord. Lift the back up and out. I was able to avoid disconnecting the water line. Take a picture of the pulley so that you will have a record of the belt routing. Release the spring and remove and replace the pulley and bracket. Vacuum out the lint. Plug in the dryer to make sure that it works properly before reassembly.
This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side. Instructions: 1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor. Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer & screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn. 2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level. 3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position. 4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment. 5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.
The lint filter needed replacement due to what is probably normal wear and tear.
I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.