MDB9150AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

The bottom rack was easiest, just picked it up out of the dishwasher and moved the sprayer and the silverware holder from the old rack to the new rack and set it back in the dishwasher. The top rack was a little tricky, it took a minute to figure out to remove the little end-caps on the runners and then it just slid out. Slid the new one in, replaced the caps and moved the upper rack basket. It took less than 15 minutes to fix and now it's like a brand new dishwasher!

Our first effort was to replace the lower washer arm that had splits in the sides of this plastic part. While this increased the water pressure in the wash cycle some it was not enough to adequately wash the dishes. We read that someone else had to clean out the filter which was below the lower washer arm assembly. Thus, we took off the loweer arm assembly by screwing off the hold down assembly in the middle of the arm. We then took off the pump cover by removing the 6 screws that hold it in place with a #3 metric allen wrench. When we took of the cover we could see that the pump filter was so covered with deposits that it was not letting the water through to the pump. Rather than spend hours trying to clean the filter and pump cover we decided it was easier to repalce them. Thus, we ordered the parts and replaced them. The dishwaster is now working fine. We appreciated the information that others had shared that helped us find and fix the problem.

Snaped new part in place.

The dishwasher is well engineered to perform this work.

Remove the bottom two panels to provide access and visibility to base of pump motor.

Locate plastic pump locking lever and push toward rear of DW to unlock pump from DW.

Inside the DW remove basketsand spray arms. Revove screws holding cover over pump motor and remove cover.

From below raise pump motor and support with block (piece of 2x4 worked well).

insde DW, removre old gasket, clean well around pump and botom of DW, install new gasket.

From below remove block to drop pump motro back into place, and re-tighten locking lever by pull toward you.

re-assemble inside componets, run through a rinse cycle to test for leaks and replace bottom panels.




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I was able to remove the old handle and place it on the new basket - using only a screw driver.

After unplugging the dishwasher, I opened the door which required more pulling effort than it should. There were 10 screws which fasten the inside panel to the door. 2 Of these are located next to the latch. I used my drill driver with a star bit. By carefully separating the panel from the door, I was able to see the inside of the latch mechanism. The plastic handle had 2 ears that had snapped off. It was fairly easy to remove the broken handle and replace it with the new one. All that was necessary then was to replace the 10 screws and tighten them. It seems to be fine now.

I removed the plastic retainer that held the lower spray arm in place. After removing the lower spray arm I was able to remove the 6 hex screws that held the cover over the filter screen and the discharge housing assembly. I was then able to remove the bolts that held the upper part of the discharge housing assembly, and replaced it with the new part that I received. The rest of the job was simply putting it back together.

Note: While repairing the broken part, I noticed a small leak under the machine around the float assembly. This was simple to fix. Remove the small lock ring on the bottom of the float. Pull the float out and clean the grease and soap scum out of it. Put it back in and attach the lock ring. No more leak and the water gets turned off when the float activates the switch. Something that everyone should check periodically.

I had two problems with the dishwasher. The top basket was loose, but the main problem was a plastic part inside the bottom assembly.

The part was backordered, so I re-ordered it through Sears. They said it would arrive in two days. Theirs came in two weeks, and their customer service was terrible.

Your "backordered" part came in two days, even before it was supposed to come had the part not been back ordered. I am delighted with your customer service and your company.

The illustrations on your website were excellent. They helped us not only to identify the part, but to diagnose the problem.

This was my first purchase through your company and if I ever need parts again, there is absolutely no reason to go anywhere else.

You have an excellent company, and great website! I bookmarked your page for future purchases.

Read the experiences here, very helpful. Bottom slides out first - really easy. The new part comes with rollers, you don't need to remove the old ones. Now the only problem, getting the sprayer off the bottom basket. Look carefullty, you must use a screwdriver to release one side of the sprayer, then it works off easily. Make sure you note the orientation of the base of the sprayer. Reverse steps above and you are done. New tray slides in. Our new tray was a bit wider than the old one so we needed to use a bit of pressure to "shrink" the back just a wee bit.

The upper is easy also. Since the rails are uneven, make sure you put the high rollers on the high side no matter what your wife told about how it is supposed to go in. The end caps snap inward and slide out of the rails. Easy once you know. The uneven rails are obvious once you notice. Total time was 45 minuts, 30 of which was figuring out how to get the sprayer off without damage.

Would be nice to know the factory recommendation for removing the sprayer.

I took the bottom cover off and pulled off 2 wires and removed 2 plastic nuts. I removed the old part and removed the O rings from the old part and installed the new heating element. Replaced the plastic nuts and the two wires. It was very simple. The hardest part was lying on my back to get to the wires and nuts.

The upper washer arm can be removed by just snapping it out of place. Just take a screw driver and put in underneath the spray arm and pry it out of its socket. It will just snap out its place. Sometimes this retainer will break so make sure you have this retainer before trying to remove the upper spary arm. I removed the spray arm and back flushed it out with a garden hose to get the debri out of the washer arm. The holes are all clean now. Washes much better now. To put in back on just put the washer arm back where it goes and then just snap the clip back in its hole. Pretty easy fix.

Replaced upper and lower racks. The new lower rack has a design flaw: it has 3 wheels on each side, but should have 4 wheels on each side. When you pull out the bottom rack, the last set of wheels drop down into the open space where the door hinges to the cabinet, causing the dishes to bounce and shake around. Then when you push rack in, you have to lift it back up onto the tracks made for the wheels to roll on. You can't pull the bottom rack out far enough to access the back of the rack very well.

The replacement of the spring linkage was simple - the pulling out and pushing in of the under-the-counter dishwasher was the difficult and time-consuming part. The repair of the part took less than a minute.

The actual repair -
1. Hook the linkage to the dishwasher door
2. Hook the spring to the dishwasher base
3. Hook the spring to the linkage.

Getting the dishwasher out to be able to make the repair involved:
1. Unscrewing the base panel (6 screws had to be removed)
2. Unscrewing the dishwasher from the counter (two screws)
3. Turning off the water supply
4. Disconnecting the inline water supply from the dishwasher.

Once the part was replaced, I had to return the dishwasher to its original position, which meant performing the four steps (in reverse) used to pull out the dishwasher.

First I had to remove two screws, one on either side of door. I then removed the panel, put the new one in its place, and screwed the two screws back in. Done. Simple.

1 - Unlugged power cord.

2 - Reviewed main plastic panel to see where required screws were located.

3 - Removed 8 screws on inside stainless panel.

4 - Separated the loose panel while removing screws holding the front plastic bezel in place. Removed two screws hold latch in place.

5 - Noticed that two screws were holding the PC board down plus a retaining nub on the plastic piece. Removed screws and held PC board out of way.

6 - Pulled off plastic splash shield held down with sticky gunk.

7 - Was a little difficult keeping the front door panel separated from the inside panel while doing all the work.

8 - Installed new handle into latch device and then attached to inside of door.

9 - Put it all back together twice after forgetting to install the two PC board screws. Oops.

10 - Felt confident the repair was correct when done.

Parts arrived as promised. Web exploding details insured exact replacement part.