MDB6658AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help

I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.

I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Took off old, snapped in new.

It takes about 5 min. to disassembled the lower jet system. As you disassemble, make sure you clean all the filters, and asses the integrity of the filters. If they are broken, you need to replace. Once you get to the impeller, you know it is broken because the lower part is loose. To replace you need to firmly hold the impeller as you unscrew the top screw. If the housing gasket is broken or too loose, replace. Otherwise you will have leak. Refer to your models diagram for proper assembly.

1. Print out the "pump and motor" exploded diagram and label the numbered parts down to #11 (discharge housing assembly).

2. Unscrew the "lower spray arm cap" (#34) by hand (it just twists off), remove the "jump up nozzle" (#1), and lift the "lower spray arm" (#2) and filter guard" (#36) out together.

3. With a torx screw driver, remove the screws holding the "pump cover and secondary filter assembly" (#4), taking note how the assembly was positioned. Be careful not to lose the two plastic "lower spray arm seals".

4. Lift out the "pump housing filter" (#6) and "rinse arm assembly" (#7).

5. With a 5/16 wrench, remove the bolts holding the "discharge housing assembly" (#11). You will likely find a plastic disk just sitting there under the discharge housing assembly. This is the source of your problem. It is the lower plate that has worn loose from the rest of the assembly and the noise is from it being ground by the impeller below.

6. The simplest fix is to order a new "discharge housing assembly" along with gaskets #37 - O-ring (for "pump cover in step #3. Mine was missing.) and #38 - "upper discharge housing gasket. Three parts to order and save your exploded diagram for when you put it back together.

7. Remove the "discharge housing nut" at the top of the old discharge assembly, lift off the "wash arm support", and put both on the new discharge assembly.

8. Insert new seals where they belong and reassemble the dishwasher in reverse order.

We ordered the replacement part for our Maytag model and when it came we saw that it was different than the original part. The original part had 8 wheels with a higher left hand side. The replacement part had only 6 wheels and no higher side. The replacement part would not pull in and out evenly and was a bit too narrower. We called Parts Select and told them our problem and they are going to refund us in full and take back the part they sent. Alas we will have to buy a new dishwasher. We would use Part Select in the future for replacement parts.
Alice
Cambridge, MA

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

Don't over think the process, removed module and replaced damaged parts.
Worked the first time re-assembled.
Replaced control panel and latch handle with minimum effort and time.
Needed “star bit” to remove primary screws associated with main door panel. Delayed experience when double sided tape was required to adhere protective plastic shield for electronic touch panel component.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

I took apart the lower spray arm apart and removed the 6 hex screws. I noticed that the little plastic circle thing had been ripped off the dome-shaped thing. I replaced the part and put it all back together.

Remove bottom rack. Unscrew the retaining ring on the wash arm, remove along with wash nozzle. Unscrew the eight retaining screws on the filter cover and remove (be carefull not to lose the two plastic bushings). Pick off and set aside the wash fan. Remove the six retaining bolts on the discharge housing. Pull up and remove the discharge housing. Remove the gasket (buy a new one, cheap and easier) with small screwdriver. Push gasket into new assembly. Under plastic nut with pliers and take off the plastic bushing that the wash arm rides on. Install new housing assembly with the parts that was taken off in the reverse order. Be carfull when installing the filter cover to make sure the drain outlet is aligned or mated to drain. Gently push down until the filter in down and continue reassembly.


(PS: Never use Sears parts, they extrembly slow as well unable to deliver on time).
Wash your dishes

Was extremely easy to remove that existing rackings(upper and lower), install the new racks and snap in the new spray tower. It now looks like we have a new dishwasher. We are hoping that it will last another 10+ years.
We will recommend your site to friends.