LTF6000ES1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

very easy, just put in the 2 screws and it was fixed..

Installed New shock absorbers and new door strike. The existing broken shock absorbers caused the drum to oscillate and pull wires from door lock switch.

The end of the door strike had broken off in the lock. The door strike itself went on in just a few minutes. The time consuming part was getting the piece that had broken off out. After trying with tweezers to get it out, we took the lock off the machine and finally got it out. So....if the door strike looks damaged or isn't shutting properly, replace it before it breaks off inside the lock. We were pleased with how quickly it came. We ordered it Sunday evening and it came Tuesday morning.

I took off the bottom cover by removing the two screws on the bottom cover. The shock absorber was completely broken off from its bracket. I pulled the plastic pin on the top and bottom of the shock absorber and installed the new shock. The machine works perfect again spinning out all the water. With the broken shock absorber the drum will shake violently and the machine shuts down. It makes it appear to be an electric control problem.

Using a youtube video, (which might have actually been related to parts select), the door lock replacement went smoothly AFTER I couldn't SEE the SPRING around the rubber boot, as the spring was the SAME color and with a little bit of dust on it, was indistinguishable. As soon as I found it, the rest was fairly simple. I MIGHT even try replacing the moldy boot on these stupid front loaders...I paid for overnight shipping as I also had Geek squad guys on hold for repair, and needed to know fast, whether or not this would do the trick. HOORAY!

I watched a tutorial online (don't believe it he only showed the easy side) you have to hold the clip on the nylon pin and drive it out on both ends of the shock. on the rite side the lower pin hits on the back side and wont come out far enough to release the shock,i had to get on the backside and cut the pin off(thankfully their was a spare pin in the kit,you also have to disconnect a hose in front of the top pin on the rite side,i don't know how you would ever get this pin out if you ever had to again as you have to drive it in backwards. I neglected to tell you this was a top loader and the fron lower panel gives you access to these shocks.

Remove the 2 screws on the rear of the top panel. Open door and remove the 2 screws holding the latch assembly. Reach down and pull up latch. Remove the 3 wire connectors. Plug wire into new latch and re-install in reverse order.

One day the washer would spill water out on the floor then it would be fine for a week and do it again.Finally it broke,i ordered the new drain pump and installed it in just a few minutes,Hose clamps were a pain,it works just fine now,I would say replace the clamps while you are doing this ,it would make it much easier .Hope this helps !

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

Remove the top cover and the doorlacth and unplug the old parts as simple as that

I didn't have the right tool, so asked my handyman neighbor to come do a few projects and he had the driver in his pocket screw driver. it is a tip that is included in many multi-tip drivers. two screws removed the old and replaced the new. cheaper than local parts place, and no repair man. thanks

The washer was in the garage, and if you take off the top of the washer, the entire inside is un-insulated. THAT is why these things freeze and break in the cold. Turn off the water, un-hook the water hoses, remove the frozen valve body (two screws into the soap dispenser) and replace. The new part doesn't come with the rubber grommets that slide into the soap dispenser, so use your old ones. Put some WD-40 on the rubber grommets and push the valve body into the soap dispenser....it will slide in soooo much easier than without it. After screwing in the two screws to the soap dispenser, wrap the valve body loosely (but completely) with some fiberglass insulation. I insulated the whole inside of the washer (staying clear of the motor and belt) so that it would survive colder temps!

took off front an back panels-pushed half inch socket over pins and pulled them out with channel locks from opposite side of socket-need a piece of broom handle or something about 2 ft. long to tap pins back in to make installation easier

removed and replaced pump

It went easy