LNC6766A77 Admiral Washer - Instructions

The Repair went well . I had the hose on in about 30 seconds . The best part about this ordeal was the ease of finding the part on your website , and the speed of the delivery . I had my part in about 2 days , put it on and back to the fun part of clothes washing . I would recomend this company to everyone. Thanks, Rick K.

Once the washer was unplugged, i removed the two screws on the back pannel, disconnected the three wires, rubber water line, and two screws holding it to the control panel. Quite simply reversed the process with the replacement part i ordered, which arrived overnight, and the problem was solved.

unscrew the screw holding the broken part in the lid to remove the old part and tighten the screw to a firm position to hold the new piece in place. Now working fine.

I think normally the problem is caused by the Brake Rotor Lining Assy (item #50 on the diagram). It has a brake lining facing down that makes contact with item # 51. It turned out that I had grease & grime on these parts, thus the brake is not taking grip & causing squeaky noise. All I had to do was to clean the parts & put them back. I bought the part (#50) - P/N 2347192, but it was a whirlpool part that didn't fit my Magic Chef. Some parts fit both brands, but this 1 didn't. Here is the procedure:

1. Unplug washer.
2. Move unit away from wall.
3. Tilt it back far enough to work underneath. Support the front with lumber.
4. Pull out cap (#58)
5. Remove ring clip (#57)
6. slide out everything from #53 down. Keep them in same order for re-installation.
7. There are 6 ea screws (#53) that hold item #52 to item #45. It is spring loaded by item #47. Item #53 has a 5/16" hex head. Use 3 ea. #10-24 hex head screw, at least 1.25" long to assist in compress/decompress the spring tension. You can buy them from a hardware store.
8. Take out every other screw (#53) & replace them with these 3 longer screws for remove/re-installation of item #52.
9. Take out the remaining 3 ea #52 screws.
10. Go around & back off each of the 3 longer screws to decompress the spring.
11. Remove item #52, & everything from #48 down will come out.
12. Clean or replace what you need.
13. Do the reverse to put everything back.
14. There is an item within #59 that looks like a miniature bearing. I would put some grease on that & on item #55.

Disconnect electricity....remove front panel by gently prying up lid.... Remove two small screws at corners of front panel. You may need small nutdriver here or very small hands, you can easily swivel tub out of the way....once front panel is off water pump is at the bottom right... It is only connected by two squeeze clamps and 3 nuts... This is obviously where the adjustable wrench and nutdriver come in very handy... Otherwise this job will be a bit longer....be prepared for residual water to pour out...you will need towels or a bucket....replace old with new one by reversing the process...at this point tilt the entire washer on it's backside or at least at a 45 degree angle to access the bottom... Swivel the motor away to slack up the belt...remove belt and replace in reverse order of diassembling.... Should take no more than 15 minutes.... Good luck!!!!!

Replace the motor in 25 minutes, my repair guy said it was not worth the time , I got this motor for less than $150. And save my self over $600.00, this was incredible.

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

removed 1 bolt with 1/2" socket, ratchet and extensionand pulled old part off, replaced with new part---less than 5 minutes total time

Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together.
Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinstalled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.

I'm not a washing machine technician but I did nurse a new Kenmore machine for 23 years and was ready for a replacement. Craigslist advertised a Maytag I was interested in and I bought it with the seller's assurance that it worked perfectly. It didn't and I went online to try and figure out what might be wrong. Clearly, the tub was traveling beyond it's design limit and I suspected a spring or two might be involved. Somewhere online, I found the illustrated parts diagram and then went looking for additional information. To my extreem delight, I came across a do it yourself repair video that demonstrated the procedure well enough that I was completely confident I could make the repair with little effort. That video was one of several service related appliance videos offered for free throughhttp://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/index.html/ The final consideration was whether I could buy the replacement suspension springs and snubber ring for less than I paid for the washer. I found PartSelect and within minutes, I had the parts ordered. The parts arrived within 4 or 5 days, as promised, well packaged and in perfect shape. This morning, using the video as a final reference and the new parts, I completed the repair with only a minor hitch. Without the special spring tool used in the video, I struggled a bit with getting the new springs attached. That's where my wife came in handy (after all, she was movitated). Having her tilt the drum toward the spring landing made it much easier for me to stretch it into place using an adjustable locking plier. I actually enjoyed the whole procedure.

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

I read some stuff on the internet where folks with the same problem replaced the water inlet valve to repair this same problem. So I did the same. However, after I installed the new water inlet valve, the problem was still there. It was at that point I decided not to guess at the what issue was and instead test the components in the washer. Yes, I am a lazy dumb ass. There are many of us out there. I decided to use a continuity tester to test all components in the hot water fill circuit and determined that the water temperature switch was bad. So I ordered a new switch from Parts Select (they rock - it showed up next day) replaced the water temperature control switch and...walla. fixed!!! Only took about 30 minutes to replace. Lesson learned: Don't be a dumb ass and guess. Test.

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

Removed front panel also right side panel to get to the springs. Used vise grips to extend springs and used coins to keep springs open for replacing.