LAT5004BGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I did it per the video on line and was a snap.I don't have issue recomending the web site to my freinds who want to do repairs themselves.

This website is GREAT! I found the part by looking up the symptoms, and once on the page for the lid repair switch, I found several folks with the exact same problem. This was such an easy fix. I waited for the part to come in, and once I had it in my hands, simply unplugged the machine, took out the 4 screws holding the control panel in place, and then took out the 1 screw holding the lid switch in place and replace it! It was really that simple! The machine works perfectly again. Worth every penny! One thing, the old part is black, and the new one is white, so it takes a moment to find it.

Follow the instruction from Partselect video. Strongly suggest to get all the tools ready, before you start.

replace the water valve

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

First of all I had water in the machine that I had to bail out before I could tilt it back in order to work on the motor trolley, which is where the tension springs are located. I thought that the pump was not working because the tension springs that held the motor trolley back to ensure tension on the tub belt & the pump belt, were not strong enough. However, when I got the tension springs in, they were not any stronger than the springs I had. So, then I thought the only thing left to do was order a new pump belt, which I have already done. If that doesn't work, then I don't have any idea what will. I might try taking the belt I have to Auto Zone & seeing if they have one slightly smaller...beyond that, I don't know. If either the tub belt or pump belt is too tight, then one may cancel out the effectiveness of the other...very precarious. Hope this might help someone else.

Siphon break conneclor kit very easy. Watch video first and had not problems. The glide and spring kit was more involved and I had no instructions. I figured it out myself. I removed the two belts. Removed the front panel. Removed the 3 screws that secured the motor base mount assy to the base. Removed the belt pulley from the motor removed the 4 nuts that secured the motor to the plate. Removed the 2 springs. Replaced the sliders and applied the grease supplied Put the parts back together. Everything took care of my problems.

I removed the agitator, retainer nut, inner bin, old seal, and outer tub. To me it was important to clean all perts thoroughly for which I used an SOS pad and scraper which probably took me a little longer than average but I thought it was worth it to prevent doing this job all over again. Then I reversed the process.I do not have the special spanner wrench so I used a hammer and punch tool to loosen and tighten the seal and retainer nut. I also bypassed the injector valve since it was leaking as well and my washer is working fine.

disconnected and replaced switch. I ordered the switch one day and Fed Ex delivered it the next morning. Iam amazed at the quick service from this appliance supply store.

Got ipad and follow direccions on utube.

I'm not a professional repair person, so diagnosis was more difficult than this repair was. A little research online and some smart investigation(and by smart I mean unplugging the washer before taking the access panel off); resulted in a less than $30 repair - compared to what would have been close to a $150 technicians visit and repair! Simply unplug the washer, unscrew the access panel, unscrew the lid check switch, screw in the new switch, put the panel back on, plug the washer in, and start the wash cycle. Seriously, less than 15 minutes!