LAT3500AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

I shut off the water feeds and unplugged the washing machine.

I removed the two screws on the bottom panel and lifted it off.

I then lifted the bottom corners of the front plate, pulling out and raising it at about a 45 degree angle, releasing the spring clips which held the top of the front plate to the top of the washing machine and set it aside.

I then located and removed the screws located underneath the top, one in each, of the undersides, of the front corners.

I used duct tape to tape the washing machine lid to the top so that it would not flop open and get damaged as I lifted the top on it's hinges.

I saw, at this point that I needed to open the control panel.

I set the top back down.

On top of the control panel cabinet there are four screws, two on each side. I removed the inner screw from each side and lifted out the control panel and set it down with all it's wires intact.

You will see a hex head screw that is holding the funnel of the water injector in place, I removed it with a nut driver and then reassembled the control panel so that nothing would get damaged as I, once again lifted the top and let it rest open on it's hinges.

I used a long needle nose pliers to squeeze open the hose clamp and loosen and remove the hose so that the complete water injector assembly was free and set it aside.

At this point, I connected the hose of the new unit to it's connector and set the clamp, lowered the top, re-opened the control panel and holding the water injector funnel in place by reaching through the lid I screwed it back into place. From there it was only reversing the steps to reassemble the cabinet.

I was concerned about reinstalling the front panel on it's spring clips but found it to be no problem. I held the front panel at the angle it was in when it popped loose, with the clips resting against the lip of the top and lowered the bottom into place, it just snapped back into place.

The job went fast an well

First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

Replaced lid switch assembly. Unplug washer. The console on this washer can be removed without sliding the washer from the wall. Just lean over the drum. Three phillips screws along the top, two machine screws removable using a small socket. Move the console forward to view the lid switch in the middle. Disconnect switch plug. Pop lid switch and plunger out. (Both part of lid switch assembly.) Replace. Connect plug to switch. (Could plug washer in and test at this point. Unplug.) Reassemble.

Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

Found a very stretched, loose pump belt. Was able to pull it off pump pulley and motor pulley easily. Pushed motor assembly toward transmission pulley and removed wider drive belt. Wiped all pulleys clean. There's a double on the motor- one for drive belt, one for pump belt. Removed two hoses from pump using nutdriver. Removed pump. New pump installed. Installed two hoses on new pump. Installed drive new drive belt. Installed pump belt last. Slid pump to near farthest spot in slots. Tested for correct tension by pinching pump belt. Should be able to pinch center so two pump belt sides come within 1/4" of each other just as the spring tensioned motor mount starts to move. Pused washer back into place after external hoses connected. All new hose washers and filters on both hot and cold. Ran, checked for leaks - none! Absolutely perfect. Put front panel back on. No weird noises and drum empties perfectly every time. My wife is so pleased she's doing more loads.

Cleaned up a wet utility room floor!

Unplugged power cord to the machine and turned off hot and cold water at the stop valves.
Removed the top machine screw that holds the metal panel with the valve attached (on the rear of the machine where hoses attach), removed it from the machine with valve and hoses attached.
Disconnected both water hoses at the old valve, together with the 1/2" hose to the machine. Mark hot and cold positions.
Moved the electrical contacts one-by-one to the new valve.
Changed the old valve for the new valve (one screw attaches to plate).
Connected the inlet hoses and 1/2" hose to the new valve, making sure hot/cold on correct positions.
Replaced plate in the machine and secured with the machine screw.

*** NO MORE WADING SINCE REPAIR *****

I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST!
a) Remove the front panel (use a putty knife to release clips)
b) Fashion a small hook-end out of a coat hanger
c) Install an additional glide spring (2 + 1 = 3) to get extra retraction of vee-belt around drive pulley as follows.
d) Hook end of of the new spring onto rear (back) hole of moving motor mount (observe orientation of existing springs to be sure that you're hooking up spring into hole correctly).
e) Lie on your right side, hold the spring in place with your left hand (go around back of the motor with your left hand).
f) Have someone hold the flashlight as you take a coat hanger and fish for the front end of the spring under the motor glide.
g) With front - end of spring held by coat hanger hook, pull spring towards you and slip spring into front hole of stationary motor mount.
h) Lightly spray in and around glide area with Teflon non-stick dry lube (DuPont or Liquid Wrench dri-lube product line).
Machine agitates like-new now.
Bleach Tube:
a) Remove hose clamps at both ends using a screwdriver.
b) Remove and discard old tube.
c) Slip on the hose clamps and slicker-up the ends of new tube with palmolive liquid detergent and slip onto tub and bleach dispenser.
d)Tighten clamps.

Make sure to release the springs and pulleys before you try to tackle the bolts that hold the motor base to the bottom of the washer. Mine were a bit rusty and took some force to break loose. Also it's a good idea to take pictures of how everything sits before you disassemble as the pictures in the repair kit are not very clear. Other than that it was pretty straight forward. Wiring was a breeze. . . . Good luck

Unplugged washer, turned off water supply,Removed the screws in back of console. removed. back plate, unplugged lid switch from console. removed screws holding console to frame of machine. Removed lid by prying the bottom corners out freeing the hinge ball on either side. unscrewed the lid switch from the frame of machine. installed the new plunger screwed into place aligned with lid switch snapped new switch in place, plugged in to console. put screws back into console and put back plate back on turn water supply on plugged in washer started washer which is now working . and the repair guy who never showed up wanted to charge me 50. diagnostic fee when I told him itwas the switch. it cost me less than 50 for all the parts. if you can read you can do

Unfortunately, I couldn't find instructions for removing the top for exactly this model. First step was to remove the front panel by removing the two lower screws, grabbing the bottom of the panel, and lifting up until the clips on top of the panel let go. Next was removing from underneath the two screws towards the front that held the top of the washer on. This gives you easy access to the Fill Injector, but if working alone you'll need something to prop up the front of the top lid while you work on it. There is one screw that hold on the Fill Injector assembly (top and bottom). This screw is removed from the top, via the control panel. To get inside the control panel you need to remove the back of the control panel (very easy), just unscrew the 5 screws on the back of it. Then remove the one screw that holds the Fill Injector assembly in place. From under the front panel, use your pliers to remove the hose clamp and then remove the Fill Injector from the hose. ONE IMPORTANT ITEM, YOU'LL DEFINITELY NEED A REPLACEMENT HOSE CLAMP. The one you remove to take off the old, broken fill injector cannot be put back on. Put the new clamp loosely on the hose, then connect the hose to the new Fill Injector Assembly. Put the Fill Injector Assembly in place and use a piece of duct tape to hold it there. Then reinstall the screw that holds it in place from the top, inside the control panel. Reinstall everything in reverse, give it a test and then have a beer. You've just "given it to the man" and saved yourself $100+ on a repair bill.

Drum on the Maytag washer was not spinning is a true rotational pattern. Adjust or replace the centering springs.

How-to-description
I had to hack saw off the centering springs eye bolts since they were rusty and not adjustable. If you have to cut the old eye bolts as I had to, be careful... the spring will jump up an inch or two very quickly and you want to keep your hands clear. It makes a load noise and my wife asked "what happened". Not a big deal, just be aware of the spring returning to a normal state.
Place the new eye bolts in position and tighten the nut with 4 turns. With duck tape I held the eye bolts in place from under the machine. Had my son push the drum towards the replaced spring to shorten the length of the end of the spring to the eye bolt. Stretch the new springs with a long screw driver, one end against the washer body, and the other end near the handle. Pulled down on the scrw driver until the spring can hook onto the eye bolt. Before cutting the old eye bolts I measured the length of the eye bolt from the spring to the frame. Adjust the new eye bolts to the same length after the spring is stretch onto the eye bolt. Overall a simple project, cost $40 for me and the best advice is using the long screw driver to pull down on the springs.

Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.