KUDI24SEBL1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

The repair was simple except for removing the thread portion of the old retainer nut from the lower housing. I had to remove the lower housing and separate the male threads of the old plastic nut from the female threads in the lower housing. That took 25 minutes since I did not want to ruin the female threads. Once removed, the new parts went into place easily.

You'll have to excuse me, but I'm a women and don't know the exact names for the parts.
Since my nut broke off in two parts, I had to remove the screws on top of the drain screen to get the other half. I just used a philips screwdriver and removed the 7 screws. Took out the broken part, and that was it. Put back the screws, put on the spinning water arm and put in my new part to keep it in place. Thank you. This saved alot of money for a repair person.

Removed the screw that held the mount in place. Snapped the new mount place (no screws required).

Fast & easy.

I removed the bottom spray arm and replaced the worn part. Now the arm turned freely and was performing as it was designed to do. I appreciate parts select for having the part available since the manufacturer no longer supported the model.

We unscrewed the old mount, and installed new mount, inserted screw and tightened. Waa-lah, that was all that needed to be done.

No Water supply to Dishwasher. Turned off main Supply valve under sink.First took off old Diswasher supply valve and repaired it by cleaning it and it worked for two weeks. I ordered the part, but then cancelled it and Partselect service was great and cancelled it immediately. After it went down after 2 weeks I re-ordered it and it came in 4 days.
To Take this part off I removed mounting scews with nut driver, disconeected electronic plug connector, removed the compression fitting from the water supply and removed the outlet hose..reversed all of the above to install.

repair was very easy did need to go to the hardware store for and adapter for the hose to water inlet valve as mine had a smaller diameter connector. Otherwise followed both videos. Needed a shopvac to remove water in the bottom of the dishwasher

Note orientation of the old gasket before removing it, so you can put the new one in right. Pull the old one out, which is a snap. Mark the center of the new one and push the center into the channel with your thumb nail at the top middle of the machine. Continue pushing it in on both sides, from top to bottom, in a steady, fluid motion; don't stretch it. If there is a bit extra at the ends, cut it off with a scissors, being conservative so you don't cut it too short. The new gasket will make the door a bit harder to close, but that's what you want.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg

Partselect provided me with tracking information for my order, they also provided an installation video. So when I replaced the door seal it was a few minutes to remove the old seal and about five minutes to put in the new one and it was all done.Thanks to Parts select it was a piece a cake

Uncscrewed the lower washer arm retaining nut and replaced it along wint the 2 washers. Cleans like new.

Unscrewed the front panal from behind. Removed the inside vent covering. Unscrewed the handle screws and removed the handle. Replaced the handle and screws but not before gouging the back of my hand ( I had a needle and thread) and then reattached the panal and vent cavering. The blow-up diagrams you all have are a great reference. Thanks

I screwed the rack mount to the spindle using
the extra screw I ordered. I removed the upper dishrack's front stops and slid the rack
out. I clamped the mount to the dishrack. I screwed the rotor to the spindle with the screw that came with the rotor kit. I slipped the feed tube mount over the end of the tube and clamped it on the dishrack. I replaced the rack in the slides and replaced the front stops.

I had a hard time driving the screws. The slots are crossed but do not seem to be standard Phillips. The screws were hard to drive into the holes in the hard plastic. Before I could drive the mount screw all the way, the slot was too stripped to use.

First I replaced the lower door seal then I replaced the door gasket. The instructions were clear so both were pretty easy. Unfortunately neither fixed the leak. After further research I discovered that the screws on the pump had become loose. I used a torx driver to tighten the screws. Time will tell, but I am pretty confident that this has fixed the problem.

I bought the kit because it had other parts that I thought I needed.