KUDC01TMBL1 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed mushroom shaped float cover by simply pulling up. Cover simply slide down into switch which is mounted through the floor of the tub. Using an adjustable wrench loosened and removed plastic fastening nut allowing removal of switch assembly from below. Disconnected two wires from switch and attached replacement assembly, reinserted in mounting hole, reattached nut from top, reinserted float cap and job done! The only tricky part is that the switch needs to be mounted inside assembly, wires connected and snapped shut before reinserting. Not difficult once you figure it out, Also need to make sure rubber washer is inserted on the overflow tube before reinstalling. Keep track as you remove and simply reverse the order. Tried to obtain part locally and was told it would be 6-10 days before delivery. Order from Part select arrived in 2 days.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!

First I checked the power supply and noticed the breaker was not tripped. Confirmed the unit was getting power. I then downloaded a parts breakdown from the Kitchen Aid website and noticed there was a fuse mounted in the control section. Using my digital multimeter I confirmed there was no continuity through the fuse. I then ordered the part, installed it and washed a load of dishes:-)

Didn't have to remove any screws, etc. Just had to pull the old gasket out of a grove in the top and sides of the frame, clean up the particles caused by the deterioration of the old gasket, and install the new gasket. Have to be careful to start at the top center of the frame exactly in the midpoint of the gasket and carefully push the gasket into the grove with your hands. Try not to stretch the gasket. There will be about 2 inches of extra gasket laying on the bottom on each side of the dishwasher, and that is OK.

Switched circuit breaker off.
Removed kick panel.
Removed the dishwasher from counter.
Disconnected drain hose from the pee trap.
Disconnected drain hose from pump.
Installed new drain hose.
Reinstalled dishwasher in counter.
Connected hose at the pee trap.
Turned power back on. test for leaks by running a cycle.
Reinstalled kick panel.

First let me tell you I am not a "handyman". I am a 50 year old housewife who was determined not to shell out $$$ if I could help it. I researched on the internet what could be the problem...it was more than likely the chopper assembly. I found a youtube video that showed how to get to the chopper assembly. So I removed the racks by dislodging the end clips. Next I took the bottom tub sprayer off by holding the middle with my fingers and turning the blade counter clockwise. Next, I unscrewed the line that ran in the back and up to the top sprayer (I only removed the one screw so I could slide it to the right slightly so I could remove it from the connector at the bottom and it revealed four screws that needed to come out of the mesh cover. After removing that there is one more screw that comes out of the shroud that covers the chopper assembly. I cleaned the area removed the chopper assembly (totally gunked up) and replaced it with the new one I purchased here...(lightening fast shipping btw!!...Yea! for PartsSelect.com....you guys rock!) I checked for gunk in the rubber valve assembly, super easy to remove/replace. Vacuumed standing water with my shop vac to get any errant noodles and food bits and reassembled all of the housing and lines in reverse order. Before I ran my dishwasher I put some clean water in the bottom...just poured about 32 oz in. Whether you need to or not....I don't know but figured it wouldn't hurt. IT WORKED LIKE A CHAMP! Super clean dishes again!! I felt so empowered and the whole thing cost me less than 20 bucks! Listen ladies....and men....this is super easy....If I can do it....any one can!

first I noticed that the dishwasher wasn't making any noise. Then I saw that there were no lights on the control panel. I opened the door and found water dripping off everything... I closed the door and tried hitting every button I could see, nothing happened. I checked the breaker, it was ok, and since I did all the wiring myself, I knew that was ok too. So I pulled off the upper panel of the front door and got out the electrical schematic that came with the washer.
first stop, the TCO, the thermal cutoff, it's like an inline fuse. I got 120 volts going in and nothing coming out. Did an ohm check and it was open.
Found it locally and replaced it. Now I've power to the control panel but the washer still doesn't work
because the micro switch in the handle is broken and that turns out to be the original problem...
the stupid plastic handle broke the micro-switch which shorted the TCO...

First, I brought in my electric screwdriver and torx bit set. The screws holding the door are torx type. I removed the screws holding the door cover allowing access to the (6) hex head screws holding the dispenser in place. Raising the plastic flap covering the dispenser I removed the (2) electrical plugs from the solenoid. Using my elec/screwdriver and a 3/16" socket I quickly removed the old dispenser.
I cleaned the gasket area with some 409 and a paper towel and slid the new dispenser into place. I used a 3/16" nutdriver to tighten the screws. I tightened the screws in a cross pattern in (3) stages so as not to squeeze the gasket out of position. Screw slowly and the screws will bottom out when the proper gasket tension has been achieved, don’t over tighten.
I closed the door and ran the dishwasher in rinse cycle checking for leaks. After a couple of minutes and no leaks I pushed the cancel and drain button. I folded the plastic cover back down over the dispenser and reinstalled the outer door cover tightening all screws with my electric screwdriver and torx bit. I opened the door and filled the rinse dispenser.
We've used the dishwasher several times since the repair and the dispenser has worked fine.

My dishwasher motor was getting very noisy lately and finally died altogether. (the fwd bearing and seals had worn out. There was a small pile of what looked like white sand under the motor from the wear) I removed the dishwasher from the counter after turning off the power at the breaker box. I then turned the dishwasher on its side. The pump motor is removed by first removing the electrical connector, then loosening the retaining bolt and twisting the motor counterclockwise about a quarter turn. The gasket required a little force to become unseated from the housing but not to bad. Wiggle and pull! Be sure to take a look at the alignment at this point to facilitate reinstallation.To install the new motor, align the mark on the impeller(small delta) with the mark on the motor. Insert Motor into housing and turn clockwise one quarter turn till retaining bolt hole is aligned. Install retaining bolt. Be sure to note the position of the stainless steel screen where you insert the motor. Place it back in position before installing the pump if it is disturbed. I lubed the oring with vaseline prior to install also. The new oring was diffrent and did not feel very tight when i installed , but there were no leaks and the dishwasher is running like new. Partselect had the part at my door the next day with no upgrade in shipping charges and I will use them in the future. This forum helped me choose them and made the task easier to do. Hope this helps you as well.

Replacing the heating element was very easy. Simply required 1) disconnecting water and power, 2) unfastening the dishwasher from the cabinet, 3) removing the big, white plastic bolts from the back, underside of the dishwasher, 4) disconnecting the electrical leads, 5) dropping in the new element from the inside of the washing chamber, 6) reconnecting the bolts and leads.

Replacing the electronic control unit was more difficult. The first challenge was figuring out where the old box was installed. There are no instructions to indicate that it is in the front door assembly. The replacement required 1) removing the 8 (or 10) torx screws from the door 2) removing the 2 torx screws that attached the front door cover 3) disconnecting the 5+ connections to the electrical control box, 4) removing the electrical control box, 5) replacing everything in reverse.

Some of the electrical connections were a little challenging to disconnect (a small set of needle nose pliers helped here). Removing the electrical control box was also a little tricky to do without damaging the plastic tabs.

In all, the electrical control box replacement took me about 60 minutes because I had to figure it out from scratch.

i hope this helps others because, in all, I am very happy that I chose to do this repair myself instead of paying for the service call.

After unscrewing the dishwasher, I pulled out the washer, I saw that the springs were attached just by strings that were broken... I just used the strings from an old lanyard, retied everything, and did not need the springs! works well!

I removed the 6 torx screws that hold the control panel on the top part of the door, from the inside, removed the large plastic cover from the control board, removed the 2 big wires that go to the thermal fuse...tested for continuity and foung the fuse faulty...ordered a new fuse kit, reversed the procedure and it works like new.

Checked grinder and cleaned it several times, adjusted blades. Dishes would be clean for approx. 6 cycles, then would not clean. Placed dishwasher on its front and removed the motor. Removed grinder and impeller which I found to be worn so that the blades would not turn on the grinder which caused it to collect food particles. The impeller locks in easily.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Replacing the actual part was easy. Getting to it was the slightly difficult part. Here's how it went:
Remove the torex type screws surrounding the inner door - this was the easiest part. The screws came right out, but be careful. Removing the screws near the top (was controls) part will release the seaparate top part. Once you do that, it's only held by wiring, and you don't want that to break, so treat this part with care.
Remove the bolt screws holding the outer door to the inner door - so the inner white door containing the dispenser to be replaced, and the outer door separate, but are held together by these bolt screws. You need to remove these to separate the doors further giving you easier access to the dispenser. Some of these bolt screws were in challenging positions to reach.
Disconnect dispenser wiring and replace part - Remember where the wires go, so mark them before removing them. The part is held in by 6 bolt screws. Once removed, the part easily came out. Pop the new one in, screw the bolts in, plug the wiring back up.
Put all parts mentioned previously back together.

Now even though we gave the correct model # of our unit, the part sent did not match 100% what we replaced. There was an extra wire plugged to ours. The connector to plug it to does not exist on the new part. My assumption is this wire is for detection of rinse agent (illuminates a ligth on the front panel if empty) - so we just left this unplugged. The new part has a manual, visual gauge on it anyway which I prefer, so this was not a big deal. This is just warning for others that do this kind of thing.

All in all, it was a well worth it repair. $50 as opposed to $500 for a new unit and installation. We will definitely be looking to this site again for items we feel can be repaired. THANK YOU!