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Ice maker auger motor runs but wouldn't dispense ice
My Kitchenaid side by side freezer has an ice dispenser on the door that would not dispense ice. The electronic door opened and the motor would come on with a repeated clicking noise. The Auger would turn with a few ice cubes in the bin, but not under load. After ruling out a clogged chute, I figured that the motor was stripped. The rod that turns the auger is a hexagon shaped piece, much like a screw driver you would use with your drill. After years of breaking down ice, it stripped the hexagon key in the motor, and would just spin under load. Now, PAY ATTENTION TO THIS PART. I looked online for a repair and saw a very similar motor repair that involved taking off the front panel and electronics. I did this, and ran into a solid piece of plastic with no way to get to the motor. I then looked at the inside of the freezer door more carefully. About 2/3 down I saw a small panel held in place by four 1/4 inch hex nuts. What was a 15 minute job, cost me over an hour removing and replacing the front of the freezer. Anyway, the replacement motor fixed the problem without a hitch, and now we have ice. Of note, this is the second repair of this ice maker system, after first having to replace the ice maker itself. And, this the second Kitchenaid built in refrigerator of this model as our first had ice maker issues and was returned as a recall. It is only 5 years old.
removed screws that held the ice maker in place, then removed the cover (popped off) The drive element was easy to remove, three screws and it was out. I put in the new part and reinstalled the icemaker with the three screws that hold it in place. I never call Sears for any repair. They use contract help and I have heard horror stories about those guys!
ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,
I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.
i took the cover plate off the inside of the freezer under the ice bin[two screws] then I disconnected the wiring harness, then removed the four screws to remove the motor and then put the new motor in and the ice dispenser dispensed ice. Less than 1/2 hour with only needing a nut driver,and a flashlight.
Remove the unit cover by unsnapping from the bottom. Remove the face plate on the switches. The ice door simply snaps off the closing mechanism. The problem I have is that the original door included a heat trace element (keeps the back of the door warm to limit condensation). The new part was simply a new seal. I clipped the leads to the het trace (turn off the fridge before you do that) and put in the new door. When the heat ids on in the house there is no problem with condensation but on warmer days its pretty bad. I cannot find a replacement part with the heating element and have contacted Whirpool. THey haven't responded as of yet.
Our unit is a built-in unit so first had to remove the decorative cover panel to expose the internal on/off switch. Turned off the circuit breaker. Disconnected the wires (simple pull-off/push-on). Removed the old switch which meant clipping the plastic tabs holding the switch in position. Inserted the new switch by simply pushing it through the opening being sure to have it in the same alignment ('off' to the back of the unit.) Reconnected the wires making sure to have a white ground wires on the left and the black 'hot' wires on the right. Turned the circuit breaker back on. Turned the switch on. Now it runs.
Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one. But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.
After receiving the replacement emitter and receiver boards from PartSelect.com, I following the troubleshooting paperwork that came with my order to ensure the parts I ordered where the problem. After which, it was very straight forward: unplug the frig, unscrew the 3 screws on the covers for each board, unplug the push-pin connection, remove the board screw, set the new board in, and plug back into the connection. It took approximately 20min.
Ordered the parts from Parts Select and had them within two days (lightning fast shipment--and with just standard shipping). Disconnected the power to refrigerator, removed three screws from each cover panel, pulled the panels loose from the freezer wall, disconnected the wiring harness on each, removed the screws holding the two boards, replaced the boards with the new ones, attached boards to cover panel with screw, reconnected wiring harnesses, replaced the three screws on each side, restored power, and made ice! Whole job took about 15 minutes.
I unplugged the refrigerator Opened the freezer door Opened the ice maker door so that I could easily get to the emitter and receiver I used a phillips head screw driver to remove 3 screws from the emitter plate and 3 screws from the receiver plate I unplugged the faulty circuit boards--this took some tugging I firmly plugged in the new circuit boards and replaced the screws I waited about 30 minutes and the ice maker began making ice again
Unscrew the three phillips screws holding the flipper and electric eye unit, pull it out a bit to unplug the connector. Take the assembly over to a flat surface, and use pliers and or crew driver to pry/pull off the press-on retainer on the hinge pin. Pull out hinge pin, remove the broken flipper. Put new flipper in place making sure spring is behind the flipper (holding it open). Reinsert hinge pin, and then reuse the press-on retainer to hold in in place. Then take the repaired assembly back to the freezer, re-plug the plug, and then reinstall the unit using the 3 phillips screws. Easy Peasy.
Light was blinking on the Electronic Control Boards. Ordered replacement (emitter and receiver)and installed, and now it's working. Some note: 1 year ago, the board started to blinks (meaning it's bad) but it was still making ice. This gave me a false error when it really failed, took the risk and ordered the replacement parts and all is well now.
One more thing to pay attention to , and it may only be on my model of refrigerator, but the wires harness that connect to the receiver board (big board) have large and stiff wire. With limited space where the board and the wire are seat at, it put lots of pressure on the pressure on the board's connector. This pressure, over time, will cause the right angle connector's solders to crack and may be a contributor to the failure. If you're installing the new board, try to re-inforce the connector with some rubber heat glue and also relieve pressure from the connector's end, which I hope will prolong your board.
