KSRG22FKWH18 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

The control bracket is made of plastic and holds two microswitches that activate the ice dispenser and the water dispenser. The plastic clips that held the switches on the control bracket broke so that the switches no longer operated when the ice dispenser lever was operated.

Two screws held the external dispenser bezel, and two screws held the control bracket in place. The wiring and switches were transferred to the new bracket and the new bracket screwed into place. Then the bezel was replaced.

Total repair time was less than 5 minutes. The control bracket was $16.50 with shipping and arrived two days after I placed the order.

The PartSelect website had a clear diagram of the control bracket so I was comfortable with the order.

The door is very easy to remove. There is one nut for the cap on the top of the soor hinge. Once the cap is removed, you need to remove the 3 nuts holding the hinge in place. Simply lift the door off the lower hinge and rest it on the dining room table. I set towels down to protect the stainless finish. The closing cam will be visible on the bottom of the door. I choose to replace the lower cam and the upper cam at the same time. I did not know what the problem cam was. The door works good as new. I put a small amount of vaseline where the two cams rub to provide a lubricant.

Well first of all, I was afraid that the compressor was shot and I'd need a whole new refrigerator (ack $1000!!!). After googling/reading, I figured out that the starter relay mounted on the compressor was burned out. (loud click as thermal cutout shuts down compressor.) So, I ordered a replacement part, overnight shipping. Unfortunately, this was on a Friday night, so I had to figure out how to keep the fridge cold all weekend (til Tuesday). I'd already moved frozen stuff to a chest freezer, but the inside of the fridge compartment was now nearly warm at this point, so I got 10 lb of dry ice. That got things cooled down initially. Well, turns out that with a short piece of wire, you can momentarily jump across the terminals of the relay and kick start the compressor. It then runs until either the defrost cycle stops it or the thermostat kicks it off. Anyway, all weekend, every six hours or so, I turned off the fridge for a minute to cool down the overheated, stalled compressor, then turned it on and jumped the terminals to start it up. Kind of a pain, but saved lots of food. Overall, the $30+$30 (shipping) for the part saved me from having to get a new refrigerator, so I'm quite pleased. I've used Part Select many times now. Very fast service and shipping, great website/database. I shop around and every time end up buying from them again.

If you've ever replaced a computer hard drive - you can do this too. I didn't even unload the freezer. It really is about 10-15 minutes of work. I ordered the recommended replacement part - which was a newer part#. It's best to remove the shelf barrier under the ice dispenser assembly (pops off) for ease of access - the motor hatch is a bit awkwardly placed. Removing 2 x 1/4" screw nuts pops off the lower hatch on the underside of the ice dispenser assembly.
Inside, remove the wire connector + 4 x 1/4 nut driver screws and the whole motor is released, while the hex drive shaft remains attached to the dispenser assembly. No sweat so far. The new motor pops in the same way the old one came out - you might need to give the top of the hex drive shaft a twist to align. A powered nut-driver is recommended to do all of this yoga 2 feet off the floor with only 2 hands. Secure the 4 nut screws and reconnect the wire connector and you're almost done. But wait - read the directions and you notice that there's a rubber washer that has been introduced to prevent water leeching into the motor. @$%^ - didn't see that little thing in the shipping box - ok so I get to do this twice... don't make the same mistake. Attach that rubber washer to the hex shaft. Then, reattach the panel with 2 more nut screws and you really are done. Now dispense some fresh ice into that rum & coke. Ahhh.

1) At bottom of ice maker trim there are two small slots at right and left ; use screw driver to pry away from door; lift trim upward away from door 2)using 1/4" nutdriver remove screws from 4 corners, 3) remove 2 screws from control panel 4) disconnect all wires/cables and set exterior panel aside. 5) locate 2" pin that runs through door spring and use needle nose pliers to remove round clip on left end of pin don't lose this clip 6) while pushing ice maker lever (where you would push with your glass) use needle nose to pull the long pin out to the right 7) Remove all remaining parts by hand (i.e. the pin, the dash pot and white lever and the ice door) 8)slide new control lever into slots on exterior side of the new door 9) -tricky part- using needle nose, push pin back through the right hinge point, the new lever, the new door, the new spring and the left hinge point (note the new door has no electric wire connector) 10) using the needle nose, carefully replace the little round clip on the left end of the metal pin. 11) reconnect all the wires (don't worry about the wire that had been connected to the door wire, just fold it aside) 12) replace two screws screws in control panel and four screws at corners of exterior panel 13) snap outer trim panel back in place.

I removed the ice maker which required removing 3 screws and then disconnecting the electrical plug. Once the ice maker was out, I removed the 3 screws that held the motor assembly to the unit.
I removed the motor, replacing it with the new one.
Plugged the power supply cord back in, replaced the unit with the 3 screws and within a few minutes the unit was receiving water and by the next day I had ICE. This saved me $50. for the service call, then another $25.00 installation fee when the part came in (had to be ordered) plus the markup on the motor (approx. $25.00) So I saved approx. $100. and only took about 30 min.

1. turn off power.
2. pop off ice maker cover to access motor assembly.
3. remove three screws to assembly.
4. pull off assembly.
5. attach new assembly making sure metal arm and plastic
ice tray rod align with assembly.
6. screw assembly onto unit.
7. replace cover.
8. plug in refrigerator.
9. enjoy ice again with no leakage into freezer.

While looking for parts I read the advice on you web site under the ice maker parts. I also had problems reading the LED codes. They would change each time I unplugged the refrig and powered up. I took the other guys advice, ordered the emittered and receiver and the next morning I had ice. GREAT service guys, thanks. Also the part was on my door step in 1.5 days. Sure beat an expensive service charge.

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

First I removed the bolt that holds the cover on the top hinge bracket. Then I removed all items from the shelves inside the door by lifting the shelves out and placing them on the counter. Next I removed the 3 screws holding the hinge bracket on, this disconnects the top of the door from the cabinet. Then I lifted the door off the lower cam, removed the screws that held the cam in place on the door and the lower bracket on the cabinet and replaced the cams. I smeared some Vaselene on the cams and placed the door back on the lower cam, reconnected the upper hinge and replaced the hinge cover. All done and it works great!

We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.

It was simply a matter of removing the old filter housing unit by unscrewing 3 screws and unplugging the two water tubes. After re-insterting the water tubing and securing the housing unit "VOILA" good as new..It really was easy..

The first step was to go to PartSelect.com to find where the filter is located because that is not revealed in Whirlpool's Guide. This refrigerator came with the home I had just puchased so Iwas unfamiliar with the filter replacement. Th filter is on the grill at the bottom of the refrigerator. I followed the instructions helpfully printed on the replacement cartridge box which arrived in less than the 3-5 days acknowledged on my order.

Turn the filter handle 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Don't be timid. It was very tight (probably had not been replaced ever). Remove the filter from the handle that protrudes through the grill at the bottom of the front of the refrigerator.

Insert the new cartridge into the filter handle insert snugly until it goes no further and turn 1/4 clockwise.

The instructions on the replacement cartridge tell you to run the water for 5 minutes to remove air and sediment from the system. DO NOT skip this step. I was. I discovered a large amount of sediment after even three minutes of flushing. A 5-gallon pale will help. And don't forget to turn off the ice maker while you are flushing. Otherwise you will end up with ice cubes everywhere as you try to position the bucket under the water dispenser.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

First I unplugged the frig, and turned offed the water and ice dispenser using the on/off panel switch. I removed the panel by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver at the bottom of the panel where the plastic studs locked the panel in place. By inserting a little upward pressure, the panel popped right ouff. The Micro Switch was very easy to remove and replace. Just make sure that the plunger on the ice dispenser makes solid contact with the switch when depressed.