KSRB25FHSS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Spent six hours melting the ice berg, twenty minutes cleaning things up and ten minutes replacing the ice maker. The video was great the only piece of information that was missing was a statement that it may that several hours for ice to be produced. Thanks for the prompt and courteous support during ordering, a good product and support video.

Exactly how the part select video described it. Threw a little curve ball figuring out which timer setting to set it to. But the instructions provided with defrost timer walked me right through it. No problem. After installing part nothing happened for about ten minutes, which had me second guessing each and every step. Then, like magic, cold air began blowing. What a relief. Thanks so much, love this site. Refrigerator works like new!

I order the suspect part before pulling out the ice tray and whole ice maker for inspection. As it turns out my ice tray was peeling and all gunked up and I needed a new one. I suggest in the case of ice maker issues that you pull the entire ice maker before ordering what appears to be the troubled part. I had to replace the whole ice maker which was not really that much more money than just the part.

I looked at the video that part select send. I did exactly what it said to do,and now my refrigerator is working just great. And the noise is gone. I thank you so much for your help. And I'm a 64 year old women thats how easy it was.

1. Remove the ice-maker/water dispenser cover plate located on the freezer door, by: inserting a putty knife blade at the bottom and freeing up the two retainer tabs; then pushing up. (note: be careful pulling the cover plate, there are many electrical connections on the back).

2. Note the electrical connections on the back of the cover plate and locate the connect close to the inside of the freezer door and disconnect it. (Note: this is much easier than pulling each wire off its connection point and then having to remember which color coded wire went where).

3. Carefully work the door hinge pin back out to the right and remove it and the hinge (Note: in my case the pin was already half way out so the old door couldn't close - and since this model door had a heater which came on because the door was misaligned there was constant flow of warm upwards causing ice to melt, run down and re freeze thus making the door difficult to open).

4. Unscrew the single her head screw holding the small metal piece to the right that retains the know upon which the outer door frame turns. Move the frame to the right to free it and work it out if the way. You now have access to the ice-maker door and hinge pin assy.

I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall, unplugged the electrical cord, and turned off the water going to the refrigerator. I then removed the cover on the bottom rear of the refrigerator by removing 7 or 8 small screws. Luckily the new and old valves were exactly the same except for some color coding. There were 2 screws to remove that attached the valve to the body of the fridge. There were 3 plastic tubes that connected to the valve and 2 wiring harnesses that plugged in. Before removing them, make sure to note which tubes and wires went where. The 3 tubes on the old valve were the push in type, just like the new one. I could not pull 2 of them out like the instructions said. I had to pry them out with a screw driver. In doing so I warped about 1 inch on the end of each tube which I then cut off with a razor blade. The electrical connections pulled out easily. I then pushed each tube back into the new valve which was very easy and pushed the electrical connections in. I attached the valve to the fridge with the 2 screws, turned the water on, plugged in the electrical cord, and checked for leaks. I put the back cover on and was back in business. It took me about 40 minutes but when I was younger could have done in in half the time.