KHWS01PMT2 KitchenAid Washer - Instructions

I followed your repair video explicitly, simple fix. However, one should
be careful when disconnecting the two prong electrical connector from
the heat sensor. the two black wires can pull free easily. In that case, the
rear of the female plastic wired connector must be extracted to allow the two black wires to be "pushed" into the narrow slot which displaces the
wire insulation and allows for a good electrical connection. If a punch tool is not available a pair of needle nose pliers works. Also, observe
the orientation slots on both the male andfemale connectors - they
connect one way only! I set the washer on it's face while effecting this
repair to better see what I was doing (eyesight not as good as it used to be). Thanks for the timely support!

Followed internet instructions

I purchased a new bellows from this site I followed their instructions. Just tricky getting the inner clamp on aligned and tightened.

Unplugged power cord, turned off both water valves on the wall, Disconnected the water hoses o the back where they are attached to the water inlet valve. Note: there will likely be some water left in the hoses. Then removed top lid of washer (this is a front load washer) by removing the 3 nut screws on the back of the lid and sliding it to the back and lifting off.. Disconnected the small hose that is attached to the water inlet valve by squeezing the hose clamp and sliding the hose off. Removed the 4 wires connected to the water inlet valve (marked each one with a number in order) then removed the Phillips head screw on the back of the machine holding the water inlet valve, sliding the valve to the right, . Removed valve, and replaced with new one, and re-installed by reversing order of removal.

Inputs on your web site of other people who had replaced this valve assembly helped.
Remove top cover from washer - three socket head screws on rear of machine, (need to move washer forward for access)
Turn off both hot and cold manual shutoff vales on wall. Run washer to take water pressure off from hoses (turn on for water to turn on , and then turn washer off).
Remove both hoses (mark/remember which side is hot/cold, as valve assembly has no markings), from valve assembly, had to use channel locks/adjustable wrench to remove nuts as they were really tight. Check to see if gaskets were OK, would have been nice, if these gaskets are supplied with new valve assembly. Remove screw which holds valve assembly to washer. Slide valve assembly slightly side ways to free it from bulkhead panel. Remove last hose assembly inside washer, attached to valve; remove four wires from solenoids. Keep track of wires (which solenoid).
Replace valve, reconnect internal hoses and wires; install valve assemble on bulkhead panel; attach screw; reconnect hoses; turn on manual valves; check for leaks; briefly turn on washer, check for internal leaks; install cover; push back washer in place.

Repair was described as a simple 5 minute job following the enclosed directions. There were no directions included. Customer service replied they could not provide any instructions. I located a technical manual online and determined the steps necessary to replace the baffles. While some may just click them in, a proper repair requires the control pannel and machine housing to be removed. Then the tub assembly must be removed and the plastic tub separated from the basket. Three screws (one for each baffle must be installed. (I recommend using blue loctite to keep the screws from backing out). The entire process must then be reversed. This is a slightly complicated (note the pencil is to mark the locations of clips for ease of reinstallation. I am an Engineer and this process took over 2 hours and required a significant amount of space to lay out the parts as the machine was totally disassembled. This assembly is best accomplished with 2 people and an entire afternoon without interruption. It can be done by anyone with some mechanical skills, but find the consumer services technical manual first and be prepared to keep track of a lot of small and large parts. This is not the simple 5 minute job described by others (unless you just want to snap the baffles on the basket and not lock them down). In that case go ahead and order a few more sets as the clips will break and the baffles will slide off and you will be replacing them about every 6 months.

I had units stacked so I had to take the dryer off, pull 3 screws from back, slide cover back and the water valve is right there, easy to change. I have not had the problem since then.

First I removed the retainer ring that holds the outside bellows on the frame of the front washer.
I then pushed the bellows inside of the drum of the washing machine in-order to get to the clamp that holds the bellows on the inside of the drum. To pull the clump I had to use a stubby screwdriver and socket drive to loosen the clamp. Once the clamp is loosen I was able to pull the bellows off, of the drum and out of the washing machine. Installation was the reverse of removal.

2 clamps and its off, problem is if you have average size hands you will struggle in getting the back clamp on and off.

The baffle just slipped on with no tools required. The best thing was that we received our parts the next day after ordering them, and we just paid for regular shipping!

Removed hot/cold water hoses from back of washer at water inlet valve. Pulled off top of washer by removing 3 screws at back of panel. Noted that water inlet valve had been damaged in move from storage. Pulled off 4 wires, 2 for hot and 2 for cold. Removed 1 screw holding inlet valve assembly to frame. Used pliers to release retainer ring on hose. Removed hose from valve outlet. Reversed process to install new valve.

disconect wayer inlet hoses.remove screws that hold the top cover. This will expose the water inlet valve. remove the defective valve and any other associated clamps,hose etc. test run for leaks.

The design of the baffle assembly must be a little off. Seems that the baffles must come loose at the screw and it tends to cause the attachment nubs to wear. The parts were delivered in no time, had the screws to replace the old screws (which was cool) all in all, the install went without a hitch. Plus, the site is great, easy to identify parts and the order process is a piece of cake. Maybe your folks could come over and redesign our parts site!

Remove top 3 screws.
Remove 1 screw that holds inlet valve.
slide valve to the right.
Mark and remove 4 connector wires.

Reverse order to install.

Easiest repair on 2003 front loading washer. This unit cleverly uses star tool machine screws with a hex head so you can pick your favorite tool. Turn off the water supply. Remove the hot and cold hoses at the inlet valve, draining any water into a small bucket. Have a towel for dribbles. *This is a good time to examine the hoses and replace them if they are anything other than perfect. Burst or leaking hoses is the #1 cause of water damage in homes.* Three screws releases the top cover which slides 1/2 inch back and lifts off easily. Remove one screw securing the inlet valve (same size screw as the others). Pull the old inlet valve away from the rear panel for easier access. Remove the 4 wires from the solenoids (they pull straight off but maybe need a little finesse), and re-attach to the new inlet valve. Using pliers, release the hose clamp on the old valve sliding it down a couple of inches, then move the hose to the new valve and reposition the hose clamp. Toss the old inlet valve in the trash, screw the new one in place, replace the top panel, reattach and hand-tighten your hoses, turn on the water, look for any leaks, and go have a three martini lunch with the money and time you saved.