KGST307HBS4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Simple. But beware changing just the bulb when the gasket is not secure.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

took the door off, removed the screws, removed the back of the door, took the broken glass out, put new glass in, reassemble door, put door back on.

Removed door parts & cleaned each, till the glass was reached. Replaced glass and reinstalled parts in order removed.

Put the new pad in and it was done. Very easy.

The first time I took the door apart to see what part to order it was difficult. The second time I knew what I was in for and was more prepared. Replacing the hinges were no problem. It was taking apart the door that was more difficult.

I have KitchenAid convection oven that is about ten years old . The hinge on the left hand side broke so I had to replace it. It took me about 2 hours to get the job done because I cleaned the door as I went . The change out while fairly strait forward did take some time . A lot longer the some of the people said .

This worked very well, thanks to the advice posted from other users. The only part that was a bit unclear was removing the door. There are small, slotted metal pieces screwed into the sides of the oven to hold the door hinges in the slots. After removing those, I had to hold the door and push it up and down, and a little bit side to side, to get the hinges to start sliding out, but they did. There are no other screws or brackets holding them in place. The hinges are on springs, so they do snap up when they come out of the slots in the sides of the oven. But they only snap to a 90 degree angle, so they won't cut your fingers off. You'd have to hold your fingers right on them to even get pinched. After that, I just kept taking screws out of the door until I got through to the back panel, replaced it, and put it all back together.

I unscrewed the igniter from the top of the oven, and removed the back panel of the stove. I had a friend in the back while I jiggled the two wires to see which ones they where. Then I had to use two pliers to pull the connectors apart. I tied a string to the two wires and pulled them out through the oven and left the string and tied the new wires to the string and pulled the new wires through the back of the stove, and replaced the back and screws.

I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy

The nylon roller was very easy to install. Although rather pricey for what the part was, it was shipped immediately and got the job done. Took all of 5 minutes to do. I wish all my repair jobs were that easy.

It was alittle difficult at 1st to remove the clips that held in the socket. But once out everything went smoothly.

Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.

My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.

The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.

I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.

Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564

I slid the range out about 8 inches from the wall, and having unplugged the range and looked at the diagram from the Parts Select site, I used a mirror and screwdriver to remove the screws holding the small rear cover. From there I removed the one screw holding the spark module and that way I was able to hold the old and new one side by side to move the wires. Reversed the process, easy peasy.

Removed the old and installed the new.