KGST307HBS4 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

I removed the oven door by lifting it off with the hinges. Disassembled the door parts one at time making sure I remember where I removed the screws until I am able to get to the broken glass. The most difficult part is making sure that the insulation strip & the gasket stayed in place after I replaced the broken glass & doing the reverse process of installing the parts together. Relatively easy process as long as you remember where the parts go. When in doubt, I had to refer to the pictorial of the disassembled door shown on your website.

The only real issue was locating the proper adhesive to ensure that the new pads would not fall out. The small insert paper slip in the package noted that a RTV adhesive should be used. After much searching at the home improvement super store, I learned it would be found at an auto supply store. It is black, and is for high temp use. It is available in a small tube for around $2.00. The RTV is usually used to make gaskets for heat/oil exposure in auto repair. I did have trouble removing a broken stub from a pad that had broken off in the hole. I used an awl to get what I could and push the rest into the hole deeper, then insert a new pad with along with the adhesive.

Although the ignitors glowed brilliant yellow I learned from an expert there are 2 fail modes. 1. that they break and don't glow well enough to ignite the gas or 2. they get resistive over the years and do not pass enough current to open the valve. This is important to know because the current passes through the ignitor before it gets to the valve. If the ignitor resists too much then the valve never gets enough power to open. As evidence you get slow ignitions until one day it stops altogether.

There are 2 ignitors in this oven. one for the broiler and 1 for the oven. The broiler is exposed so easily removed. For the oven you need to remove the flame spreader cover and the flame spreader. Need a good screw driver for all the screws in the oven because they get corroded from the hostile environment and also the factory torques them in pretty good when new. It is hard to get leverage leaning into an oven without leaning on the oven door which could unhinge it. With a good screw driver and getting a good seat into the screw you can break it loose. Then some muscle power to get it out. 1 screw refused to come out all the way so I grabbed it with some pliers and pulled and twisted it out. A trick I learned from my days as a mechanic is to use valve lapping compound on the screw driver. The diamond dust bites into the screw for a grip on those really bad ones.

The last tricky part is you have to remove the back cover on the oven, unplug the wires and pull the ignitor out through the oven. When you see the wires in the back you will see insulation packing.
Hint: If your smart you will tie a string to the wires before you pull it though so it is easier to pull the new ignitor wires back the same way. Else you need to use a stick to feel your way through the insulation packing to find the wires.

Hardest part of this job is undoing the screws. The rest is easy.

First, layed tape across all broken glass to keep glass from shattering more and releasing more bits of glass. Pull up and out the oven door. Had table set aside covered with an old sheet to lay door on, After laying door on table, Removed outer screws. Needed phillips #2 & #3 tip widths and electric screwdriver, for inner screws that where difficult to remove. Making notes of what came off first! ( (rt & left, bottom,/top) when removing metal frame braces, and in what order they go in when reassembled . Did the same with screws & set them aside in groups. Then marked the groups of screws. Removed the metal door panel. Carefully removed the in between panel of glass. Set Outer glass aside along with metal "door"and inner door glass,and proped them up in a safe place. Carefully removed the broken & shattered inside glass wearing rubber gloves. Had a garbage can next to the table to with news paper to wrap glass. Cleaned area. Replaced glass taking care not to tighted screws so much as to break the glass. Put added insulation.(Whcih was not the same as in diagram), around the edge. put back the inner glass panel, care not to leave prints, tighten screw ( care not to break glass) Cleaned the door sides and bottom, all had alot of grease buildup.
Put back the metal door portion. Cleaned the outer glass door front and back. Being careful not to break it (or leave prints inside). Replaced the side and bottom metal frames. Wiped it down and put door back on stove.

My analysis was flawed. The $100 gas valve was acting erraticaly, so I replaced it. On a hunch, I took the top front off the stove and immediately saw a row of mini relays mounted on the $300 control board. The one labeled "bake" was black!
It is just too small for years of gas on / gas off high current. (The gas valve is indestructable. I took the old one apart. It's only a heater wire wrapped around a bimetalllic arm that lifts a soft pad off of the valve orfice.)
I removed the control board and desoldered the "bake" relay and the "light" relay. I cleaned up the bad "bake" relay contacts and swapped the two relays. Works fine. Better $100 mistake than a $300 control board. (Could have been $0, though.)

Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Open top oven door and remove the 2 front screws which hold the burners and controls to the frame. DO NOT lift the burners more than an inch or so to look inside. You WILL bend the gas lines in the back if you do. Pull out stove from the wall, shut off gas supply and disconnect hose if needed to have room to work. Remove top back panel and remove the 3 wires connecting the top burner assembly and also remove the 2 gas lines. Now you will be able to remove the burner assembly safely. Flip it over and try to unscrew the screw holding the igniter. When you fail, drill it out and get a small metal screw to replace it. The metal is soft and the screw is hard, so drill carefully. The rest is easy, put in the new igniter and screw. and put it back together.

The easy part is removing the oven door and reinserting the oven door. Disassembly of the door was straight forward enough by removing the screws from the attached bottom plates. Separating the inner door from the out door was quite the pain. Once accomplished I was surprised to learn that the outer glass pane was not attached but free floating inside the door frame. Also the outside aluminum frame that the outer glass pane laid over was also unattached and free sliding in betwwen the inner and oute door. Getting this back into place then laying the free floating glass pane and keeping it positioned prior to re assembly of the inner and outter door was a tad nightmarish. The actual removal of the brackets to remove the inner broken glass plane was very easy. This is where a good drill or power screw driver comes in handy. Once the brackets holding the glass were removed, you take the broken glass out, put the new in, then reattach that glass pane with the brackets.Hat's off to those who did this whole project in 1/2 hr or less. It was a solid 2.5 hrs of time for me and my wife and I can't say that we drew closer together on this project. Actually a wall of separation started to develop between us until with God's help we finally got the whole door back together and in the oven. Be strong in the Lord and in the power of His might when you start to take on this project. Amen

Having no manual nor finding any instructions online, I spent a while trying to figure out how to safely get to the ignitor mounting screw under the range top. I popped the snap clips on either side of the stove to loosen the top and pulled the top up a few inches to see why it was being difficult to raise. It turns out that the gas piping was solidly attached from the controls to the burners and I was slightly bending the tubes as the top was raised. The tubes have angles and curves to "accept" the bending pressure I was applying, so it looked like I was doing the right thing. In case I was not doing the right thing, however, I raised the top only enough to get access to the ignitor base and mounting screw. Then the fun began as the screw would not loosen. After several attempts using liquid wrench, tapping on it, etc., the screw head finally just broke off. Uh-ohhhh. Not to worry, however, as there was an empty mounting hole right next to the old one that appeared to be able to work. The mounting screw for the new ignitor was backordered, so I tried a couple dozen different screws I had in my toolkit and finally found one that would fit width-wise, but I had to nip off some of the length to get it to seat properly. The replacement ignitor also had a different width blade connector than the original so I had to grind away some of its width to reattach it to the lead wire. If I had a different sized blade receiver, I would have instead replaced the receiver on the end of the lead wire. It took about 90 minutes in all.

After reading all who did a simular repair, I was better prepaired for what to expect before my wife and I bagan to take apart the oven door. It may help or hinder if you had extra help. At least two people and no wittnesses for intertainment.
Consider paying to have it done if your not willing to attempt to repair the oven door glass from this poorly designed door and its componets.

I wish we had a video camera to record the repair due to all the steps involved.
For the most part, all internal parts float together and only the most inside sheet of glass is screwed down.
You will need a work table to place the door on, scewdrivers, penatrent spray, cleaning solution and rags or towels.
After removing the door from the stove, just by opening the door slightly and lifting upward evenly, the door will come off the stove with its hinges attached.
With the door front facing up, and handle off the work table so door lays flat, we removed the screws along the bottom of the door.
With the screws removed, the bottom strip comes off. A strip on each side may now drop off.
This will allow you to lift the bottom end of the panel just enough to detach it from the clips that hold it on the top end. Theres one on each side.
The 2 fixed clips go inside slots of the door panel.
It may take a little tugging back and forth, up and down to remove the panel.
There are side strips by now will come off now too.
Once this panel is out of the way, you can remove each piece. Remember the order and record if you can.
The glass that was broke is secured by screws that may require some spray penatrant to loosen.

Make sure you use a perfectly fitting screwdriver as to not strip out the screw heads.

Carefully remove all broken pieces of glass than vacuum the surrounding area.
Clean all glass panels with glass cleaner and paper towels or newspaper.

With the heat gasket in its proper place, install trim with a new glass panel and return each piece in the order you removed them.

Make sure everything is returned to its proper position before you re attach the inside door panel. It may require a little effort to align everything together to accomplish this.

Return the door to the oven by inserting the door hindges into the door slots and you are done!

Sit down, have a cocktail and ask yourself if it was worth the trouble. I thought it was.

Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

repair was easy except one part drove me nuts... when putting every thing bacck together i found out that the front glass panel sits on top of the side covers of the door ...looking at the side covers you would think they fit over the top of the front glass...not so the glass edges show and are not covered ... hope this helps someone else

Take the door off the oven by sliding out the old hinges that hold the door on to the oven. Put the door up on a protected table so that the hinges can hang down and free of the table. This step will make the job go much more simple. Proceed by removing all visable screws. Make a mental note on how the old hinges are held in and how the door comes apart. Take your time this is not a hard task! I am a homemaker, was taking care of my grandson that day and still accomplished the task in under an hour. The repair people wanted $145.00 labor only to install this part!