Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
I was missing a temperature knob.
We had been missing it for years. Perhaps it melted, maybe the dog. Anyway, Home Depot didnt have the match. I order the exact knob, received it in a very timely manner. Took it out of the package, and without any tool, placed it it it rightful spot. My wife is happy now. Thanks for helping me.
I searched Whirlpool, Sears and random appliance stores and Part Select was the only company to have the lens available. All other manufacturers said the lens was no longer manufactured as a stand alone piece and I would have to buy the entire light assembly. Thank you Parts Select!!!!!
Removed rear panel (6 screws) and disconnected the four connectors on the Broil element. Then removed the 4 screws holding the the element to the top of the oven cavity. Inserted new element and connected the 4 screws to secure it. Connected the four connectors and re-installed the rear panel.
This is a built-in oven, so the biggest problem was figuring out how to remove it from the cabinet. The solution turned out to be removing the cooktop above it and unscrewing two screws that connected the oven to the inside of the cabinet. The other problem was removing BOTH metal backs from the oven. The first one was easy. The second one wasn't. The old socket was recessed behind the second back, making it virtually impossible to access the metal "wings" that hold it in place, so I ended up pulling out the socket assembly from inside the oven with pliers.
Inner door glass broke from contact with cooler liquid.
I followed the instructions submitted by other users which were helpful. Two notes that might help someone. 1. To loosen the screws holding the inner door glass, use channel lock type pliers to slightly twist the square bracket the screw is holding. The screw comes out easily then. 2. Note that the flange on the side rails go UNDER the glass door front. I spent quite a bit of time trying to get screw holes lined up with the flanges on top - DUH!
I Broke The Inner Glass On My Oven Door With A Pizza Stone
I did the repair myself while my husband was at work. I lacked the brute strength to remove the door, so I ended up taking in apart while it was in place. Unfortunately, I only now noticed that instructions for installation were provided on your website. I did it without instruction, just making sure to note where screws had been removed so I'd be able to reassemble the works when I was finished. The worst part was loosening a couple of the innermost screws--even after a long soak in wd40, they were really hard to crack loose. Once I managed that, though, it went smoothly. Don't be intimidated; you can do this stuff yourself without calling--and paying--a repairman.
That should have been an easy repair according to previous responders that replaced this part.
The first issue is the Phillips head screw that fastens the sensor to the back of the oven was frozen and I had to drill it out.
The second issue was I could not pull the connector through the hole where the sensor wires pass. I decided to cut the sensor wires and use wire connectors to attach the sensor as instructed in the sheet provided with the sensor.
NOTE: You MUST use third party "gray" colored wire connectors that you can purchase in a hardware store. - the connectors provided DO NOT have a metal insert and even after several attempts would not grab the wires.
Another caution is you should use a self-tapping sheet metal screw to fasten the sensor to the oven wall if you encounter the same frozen screw that I did!
After I installed the sensor I tested the oven but found that this DID NOT solve the problem! I needed to order the "hidden" bake element that is mounted under the bottom oven wall and also the broil/bake element that is mounted inside of the oven on the top. See my comments for the Bake Element (bottom)
In my situation I thought that I needed an Oven Temperature Sensor so I started by replacing the Oven Temperature Sensor PS388521 -
PLEASE NOTE: You CANNOT reliably do a continuity check on the bake element described here until you have completed te first four steps!!
PLEASE NOTE: Access to the lower bake element is via the RIGHT SIDE PANEL!
To replace the lower heating element (aka the bake or hidden element). These instructions are specific for the KESC307xxxx:
1. Disconnect power to the oven.
2. Move oven from it's location to gain access to the right side panel.
3. Remove the oven drawer (if any).
3. Remove three screws holding the right side panel in place and remove panel. Two of the screws are on the rear of the range. The third is accessed via the cavity where the oven drawer is mounted.
4. CAREFULLY disconnect both wires connected to the element terminals.
5. Remove one screw (not shown) from Shield-HT (item 8 in http://bit.ly/O52AP2) and remove the shield.
6. Carefully pull back fiberglass insulation to reveal cover-access panel.
7. Remove two screws that hold the element to the cover-access panel (item 3 in http://bit.ly/NjvzOi).
8. Remove one screw holding the cover-access panel in place.
9. Remove both element and cover-access panel. NOTE: Observe the orientation of the brackets that support the element so you can install the new element correctly!
10. Installation is the reverse of these steps but make sure you replace the fiberglass insulation correctly or you will experience problems with heat transfer and a possible hot-spot on the side of the oven.
I got the new wheel and screwed it in by hand. It took like 4 minutes total between taking out the drawer, screwing the new wheel on, and putting the drawer back in
Ceramic cooktop: Turn off power to the unit. remove long "locking" screws from underside of the unit; remove clips (may take a little effort if they are "frozen" in place) From underneath unit lift it up and out of the counter - do not try to lift from ceramic top- remove 4 control knobsun - remove 12 screws (3 per side) attaching ceramic top to the unit - carefully work ceramic top off the bottom frame; its a friction fit - do not force it. Place ceramic top in a safe, flat space. Note the orientation of the burner - you will need to replace the new one in the exact same orientation - also note the connections on the existing unit and match them to where they will go on the new unit. (note: my old unit had a black wire that was replaced by a solid metal strip) work the wire clips off the existing unit, flip it ove and note the number on the "clock face" where the spring clips attach. You may need to drill a small pilot hole from the top side. remove the spring clips from the old unit and place them on the new unit. These clips align the unit in the proper location and provide proper contact with the bottom of the ceramic top. Replace the top gentley working it onto the base and replace the 12 screws. Place the unit back in the countertop being careful to lift up to reposition so you don't disturb the foam tape along the edge of the opening. Replace the clips in the side of the unit, replace the mounting screws, replace the control knobs, turn power back on. You should be done. Takes about 30 minutes.
