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Oven wouldn't sensor reheat & error code on display
I looked at the exploded pic on your web site to find the location of the sensor. Next I removed the cover by unscrewing 15 screws then swaped the sensor and re assembled! Works great! Fixing it my self I saved at least 150$ and did not have to wait all day for a repair man who probaly would not have the part on the first visit.
Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.
Microwave door would not shut completely and would not activate switches
After checking all three switches for continuity I determined that the plastic door lever had warped or gone out of wack. After shutting off power at the breaker box I removed the door, the inside trim piece around the inside of the glass. Removed the black two prong door lever, reattached the new door lever and then reinstalled the trim piece and all screws. Works fine now. Easy fix just make sure your switches are all ok then replace the door lever.
I was preheating this oven when it suddenly shut down and had no power. After checking breakers and finding that there was power to the outlet, I purchased a ceramic fuse and replaced that. It didn't help. Then I ordered part #PS2339856 THERMOSTAT(PLATE) and we replaced that (the old one tested bad), but the oven still would not power on. Those were the quick and easy potential fixes that only involved removing a couple of front panels.
My husband is a retired electrician, so I trusted him to work on this. After doing quite a bit of research, we learned that there is yet another thermostat deep in the bowels of the machine that apparently prevents the oven from overheating. That seemed to fit the situation, because the oven was very hot when it shut down.
We took the oven down (mounted over the range and very heavy!) and opened it up. Using PartSelect's very helpful diagrams (In this case "Interior Parts 2") we located and removed the part labeled "27," which is #PS1016683 THERMOSTAT. The old one tested bad, so I ordered a new one.
Lo and behold, it worked! This is a very expensive oven -- in the range of $600 -- so I'm very pleased that this $20 part and several hours of research and work were able to repair it.
Unplugged the microwave. I opened the door. I used a butter knife to pop the bezel off the inside of the door. I pushed the locker up and to the left and used the butter knife to pry it loose. Disconnected the locker from the spring, and reversed for the installation.
It was complicated taking this microwave apart to install the new part.
My husband and did this work together however the new part did not fix the problem. There something still wrong with the microwave that we could not determine. This made me sad as I love this microwave.
Turn table motor malfunctioning, noisy and intermittent.
My oven is installed above the counter making it a bit difficult to reach the screws closest to the wall. Instructions should note that both harnesses need to be disconnected and that there are two screws, not one holding the motor. This one issue made it frustrating since that screw is located towards the back away from your vision. This is when the flash light and a bit of contortions were required.
The power was on but the Microwave would not start.
This is an above the range microwave, use 2 people to remove it. I set it on a table and removed the outer cabinet. I then used jumper leads to discharge the capacitor. I removed the control panel (taking a picture to ensure proper wiring on assembly), then I removed the latch board. Once I had the latch board out I removed the monitor switch (which is the middle switch) and tested it for continuity. This is a normally closed switch. I tested the other two switches as well and found these (normally open) switches for continuity to be good and the monitor switch to have a short. This switch should show continuity when the door is open and should show no resistance when the door is closed. (Take care removing the switches) After I received the parts I installed them in the new Locker Holder and installed the latch board (ensure to follow the latch board adjustment steps located in the control board). I then attached the wiring to the control board and then plugged in the unit. I tested the unit to ensure it functioned correctly. I then installed the outer cabinet, and then installed the unit above the range (Use 2 people for this process). Overall an easy fix you just need to ensure you follow safety procedures (especially when dealing with capacitors. Take a lot of pictures of the wiring and of the components and take care with the latch board or you'll have to buy a new one when all you really needed is a monitor switch.
Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin. Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF" Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one. Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug) Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON" Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Using a phillips screwdriver I opened the panel in which the two lamps are located and easily removed the lamps. I ordered them through the internet and was pleasantly surprised when I received them the next day.
Micro Wave no heat all else fine. Also at times door would not shut properly.
Replace (after testing w/ohm meter) diode and locker holder. My door often would not close properly. Microwave let know by saying not shut properly. When disassembled found the top screw mount was hollowed out resulting in it moving on occasion when you close door. First remove casing (special safety torx head) needed for rear screws. Onc e removed all parts available to view or work on. Diode is on the capacitor so caution is needed when removing. Serious shock hazard if touched. Use insulated pliers to remove from capacitor and a phillips on the ground. Test with ohm meter Should have resistance on way and non the opposite. Replaced mine bad. Next the holder 2 phillips screws and its yours. Unplug each switch and remove. Take note to what wires go to what switch and what switch mounts where. Mine had 3 switches. Removed from old holder and put in new. Screwed holder back in place and left scrws loose till re wired. Once wired set the holder by lightly tighting the screws. Try the door till it seats properly ensuring that all 3 switches are working properly. If so thighten screws. If all seems to work as advertised, safely plug in and test unit if heats up un plug and put cover back on micro. Your all set. Happy heating.
