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Old Drip bowls and Rings
Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
First turned off the circuit breaker. The two screws holding the element in place were removed. Next the element was pulled out about 3 inches. Wires were disconnected. Old element was removed. Wires were then attached to the new replacement element. The element was then re-attached to back of oven, using the two screws. Circuit breaker turned to on. About 5 minutes. Took longer to change the flashlight batteries!
First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.
Moved stove from wall, unplug the stove from the wall outlet, remove the oven racks, unscrew the plate against the oven wall supporting the element with a small adjustable wrench, pull out the element slowly without tearing the insulation & stretching the two wires, unscrew with a phillips screwdriver each wire with care, as a precautionary measurement: do not make contact with the other wire and any other part of the stove, even though it was still unpluged. Install the new element in reverse procedure...turn on Bake Element on low temperature..when it glows when hot..ready to go.
So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!
Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.
Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,
Broiler element finally burnt out after many years of cooking.
(1) Turned off power source. (2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up. (3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections. (4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation. (5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.
this repair is simple. Just unscrew the existing connection and attach the new heating element. You may have to break the existing ceramic element, but a new one comes with the new heat element.
I'm a pharmacist and no handyman but this was extremely simple. Don't let a burned out element lead to a $1,000 purchase of a new oven. I removed 2 screws in the plate using a nut driver inside the oven where bake element exits the oven (keep sheet metal screws). Removed duct work from rear of oven to expose insulation where wires are attached to element using standard screw driver. Cleaned inside of unkown chemicals spewed out during fire. Inserted new bake element, screwed wires onto element from back (2 hot wires go on one side since it's 220). I tried to use the screws that came with the element but they didn't work so I was able to use the old sheet metal screws to secure the element to the inside of the oven. Replaced duct work on back. Done.
Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]
Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.
shut off electricity to the range, removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out as far as it would go, removed the screws holding the wires in place, tossed the old element, attached the wires to the new element, pushed the element back into place and reattached the screws holding the element in place. Turned the electricity back on and the oven heated right up.
Also, the part arrived the day after I ordered it. Great Price & Great Service.
