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Getter level with cabinet and use stud finder to make it easy.
I measured. I leveled. I mounted hanging bracket and here's where it got tricky because you need two people to raise the microwave into position. I'd stack 2x4's In the back by the wall. I'd stackem in the front on the cabinet top then raise the back and add more. You get it front back front back until it's high enough to snag the bracket. Holes pre drilled raise it on up tighten bolts and poof you're done!! I did loosen the screws that pull the cabinets together and the bottom screw that holes the cabinet on one side. It didn't seem like it needed it the way it slipped in but maybe it slipped in because I did it. Only takes a minute. Use a minute here save an hour there. Go do it! Times a wastin!!
Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.
Microwave turntable broke. We had to order a replacement
I used the microwave model number to order a replacement turntable. We received the item and it did not fit. Not even close. I will have to send it back. Very disappointed
I first unplugged the microwave. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the top grill. I had to be careful because the grill was cracked close to each screw. It was a little tricky to remove the grill. Had to tilt it down as I removed it, and make sure the microwave door was opened as wide as possible. Filters were placed as the old ones, with the metal part up I believe. A little tricky to get one of the filters to fit. Grill was replaced with care so as not to further Crack it. Kind of maneuvered grill back in place, getting right side in place first. I noticed there were several tabs on the grill that needed to be placed inside of the microwave body while reinstalling the grill. Once the grill was in place, the 2 screws were put in to hold the grill in place.
Removed panel and installed upper and lower switches. I did this because it did not do it all the time. When I removed the switches I used a ohms meter to check continuity but they all checked out at first then I started playing around with the buttons on each switch by pushing in on them and letting off and found one when you pushed in and out three or four times that one switch would jump back and forth by ohms meter that was the bad switch. If any one else has that problem the switch might show continuity when you first test but click the switch button a few times to see if you get a different reading. Microwave up running. Thanks Partselect.
Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.
Loosened but did not remove screws that held up microwave over range,removed grill on top by loosening screws that held grill in place.removed small mesh grill on right side of microwave, this gave me access to capacitor ,diode is connected from one lead of capacitor to a metal plate ground,Disccarged capacitor to ground by shorting terminals to ground using a thick insulated screwdriver.Since the diode was screwed to the top of the metal plate I cut it out with a pair of side cutters .I then connected the new diode to the capacitor with my long nose pliers and groonded the other end to a more accessible part of the metal grounding plate.I then replaced all parts in reverse order.Works like a charm.
On top front of the microwave are two Philip's head screws holding the rail on. Remove these screws and the rail snap out the old filter (noting the dark side down) then snapping the new filter in. Replace rail. 10 to 15 minute task.
After removing the over-the-range unit (no small feat!) I had to figure out how to open the case (good puzzle!). Capacitor had already discharged, so it was very easy to reach in, pop the old fuse and install the new one! As per your advice, I found out I was a "28%-er"! Upon re-installation, the microwave "sprang to life"!! Thanks, "Part Select"!! I was already shopping around for a new machine! (Now if you could only tell me an easier way to re-mount this heavy beast over the stove!!!)
I had a cabinet person install new kitchen cabinets and counter top. After the demolition of the the old cabinets, I had to buy new parts for the new instal
I had the help of a handyman, I'm 75 years young but not handy with tools
Removed the face plate above the door (2 Phillips screws.) Removed existing filter and replaced with the new one purchased. Reinstalled the face plate.