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JMP28BA1WH Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the JMP28BA1WH
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The upper element for broiling went kaput!
The two dollar socket set from Xmas 20 years ago had the right size socket..

Long arms are advisable.

The lower element still plugged in while the upper wires were just hanging there surrounded with fluffy white insulation fuzz, I wondered, " Could I bake a potato for my yearning and hungry family?"

When I explained the situation to my retired father in Arizona he said simply, "I wouldn't."

The new element popped in. It got really red, and, kinda like watching my toaster toast, the show was pretty much over after it heated up.

Shalom and Merry Christmas Folks!
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V Single Heating Element Support Clip
  • Gerald from Redondo Beach, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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26 year old oven, lower element burned into two pieces.
I first removed the broken element by removing the two hexhead screws on either side of the element bracket. Then I gently pulled the wires through the opening and removed two more screws that attached the wiring to the element. I then compared the new and old elements and found a few differences.

First, the screw holes where the wires connect to the element were tiny in the new element, about a third the size of the holes in the old one. Secondly, the mounting bracket was not as long as the original, and the holes to mount it to the back of the oven are located at the top of the bracket, instead of the sides.

Since this was the only element that I have found, that comes close to the original, I decided to make it work.

I took my drill and a small bit and bored out the screw holes, just enough to get a self taping screw to fit and reconnected the wires.

Now I'm not sure that I would recomment the next step to anyone, but I did this: I held the new bracket against the back of the oven and drilled new holes to match the new bracket, and again used self tapping screws. The reason that I don't encourage this is that the new bracket fits just inside of the old opening, but the insulation cannot be seen as long as the element does not get moved. I then plugged the original bracket holes with the original hex head screws.

It took a little more time and effort than I had expected, but well worth it, after eight months without the use of my oven.
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • marsha from oklahoma city, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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old enc caps cracked; one broken off the oven door
Removed oven door from oven. Removed the inner oven door portion from the outer part to gain access to inner screws attaching end caps to front of stove door. Removed those screws and the old end caps & broken off pieces. Pressed oven door handle bar into new end caps. Reattached oven door handle assembly to front of oven door. Reinstalled inner oven door which included long screws that also went into the new end caps. Reinstalled oven door on oven. Job was easy. Price was certainly right for the end caps at $10.01/each.
Parts Used:
Door Handle End Cap
  • Randy from Olympia, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Single Heating Element Support Clip was needed to hold up the heating element in the oven. Old single heating element support clip broke and came out of the hole.
Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D
Parts Used:
Single Heating Element Support Clip
  • Marion from METHUEN, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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element burned out
It's so simple most people could mannage the repair. Turn oven off. Remove oven door and shelves. Use a nut driver to remove mounting screws. Pliers to pull quick connect terminated wires off element terminals. Use pliers to push connectors onto new element,wires may connect to either terminal. Nut driver for screws to mechanically mount new element. Replace shelves and door. First time element gets hot it will burn off oils and dirt, not a problem but do it now not later.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • John from Durham, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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The oven door handle snapped off one day, no extra force was applied to it, it just snapped off!
First I unscrewed the end of the oven door and realized I could replaced the parts easily that hold the handle on the door. Then I held the sharp, broken plastic ends with a towel and used my drill with a thingy that fits on a small hex nut and unscrewed the broken handle parts and removed them. All I had to do after that is screw on the new handle holders with the handle bar fit snuggly between them, presto, new handle bar installed. Great service from partselect. com. Would use them again.!
Parts Used:
Door Handle End Cap
  • Carla from Cotuit, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Control on one burner would heat on high only, not lower heat level
Bought new version of control element (parts no longer available for the old one) and luckily had a sheet with the oven describing how to disassemble the cook top from the range to get to the old control. After removing the top and installing the new control element, followed the instructions backwards and reassembled the range. Total job took about 4 hours. A real serviceman could probably have done it in 2 Hrs.
Parts Used:
Surface Element Switch
  • William from Hammondsport, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
11 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door handle snapped
I read the previous repair stories and figured it couldn't be that tough. Mine actually had a slight deviation and I'm sure based on model...
To remove the oven door handle, I had to remove 3 screws (phillips) on the top of the hinged door. This allowed the face plate to easily pull away from the inside of the door. The existing handles were held in place by a single hex head screw each.
Voila, in 2 minutes the entire handle was off.
This is where things had a slight deviation.
The door end caps I bought had 2 alignment prongs that extended beyond the actual surface. My door did not have holes for them to go into. No big deal, I took some wire snippers and clipped the little plastic prongs off so it was flush like my old ones. That took about 3 minutes because I had to go back into the garage to get the tool :-)
My metal door handle bar did not want to go all the way in very easily into the end caps. I went back into the garage and got some WD40 and sprayed into all pieces and wiggled things back and forth for a few minutes, placing it against the oven a couple of times to ensure I had the bar was seated enough where the holes lined up with the oven.
I would recommend putting the end caps on the bar PRIOR to attaching one side to the oven. I originally did not do this and when it was difficult to get the bar on, I had to take it off so I could perform the procedure I just mentioned.
Honestly, the entire "job" took 10 minutes.
Parts Used:
Door Handle End Cap
  • MICHAEL from CORINTH, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Baking element quit
Removed burned out element and discovered replacement element had a different back plate and different hole pattern. Also, the electical connecttion from power wires to ends of element were a TOTALLY different size, both in hole size and size of material that hole was placed. This tood a lot of slow increasing the size of the hole time. Also, the backplate was a different size with a two hole pattern at the top of the plate, as oppossed to the original plate with holes centered at the sides of the plate. Had to drill holes in back oven wall higher than I wanted, as the oven wall had a depression in the back wall and I could not drill at that point. By drilling holes that were higher than previous holes, there was now a 1/2" opening at the bottom of this plate. Used a hack saw and cut off a piece of the old plate to slip underneath, then screwed in the new plate, thus filling the remaining opening, and securing the additional hand made additional plate. This was a lot more than I had bargain for, and when I turned on the oven, it did not work! I re-checked the connection of the power wires to the grid element and found one of the connections to be disconnected. Reconnected this wire and everything is just ducky now.
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Richard from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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The old single heating element support clips came loose over time.
I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.
Parts Used:
Single Heating Element Support Clip
  • David from SALISBURY, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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I had to replace my drip pans as well as the heating elements on all four burners
Very simple to replace, pull off the old element and push in the new one. Not only was it super easy, part select was so easy to work with. I had placed the order wrong, and immediately called customer service. They cancelled my order and placed the new one, refunding my money within 2 business days for the wrong order. Courteous, friendly and prompt. I would highly recommend them! Oh, I forgot to mention that the parts actually fit perfectly, unlike drip pans bought elsewhere. Thank you, Sincerely, Cindy
Parts Used:
Drip Bowl - 8 Inch Drip Bowl - 6 Inch Surface Element - 8 Inch - 2350W Surface Element - 6 Inch - 240V
  • Cindy from Moreno Valley, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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TOP OVEN BROILER ELEMENT BURNED OUT & BROKE
1) TURNED OFF THE POWER TO THE OVEN. 2) REMOVED THE TOP DOOR AND RACKS. 3) REMOVED THE 2- 1/4 HEAD HEX NUTS AND PULLED THE ELEMENT FORWARD ENOUGH TO EXPOSE THE ELECTRICAL CLIPS TO THE ELEMENT. REMOVED THE CLIPS WITH A PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE AS ADDED GRIP. 4) PUT THE WIRE CLIPS ON THE NEW ELEMENT AND REVERSED THE ABOVE PROCEDURES.
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • HIDDEN HILLS from TONASKET, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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heating element clap broke off
All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.
Parts Used:
Single Heating Element Support Clip
  • James from Hedgesville, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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unit burnt out no broiler
took old unit and measured it part select made it easy for me ordered new unit and installed easily and quick thanks to quick service and shipping
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • Becky from Piedmont, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
7 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burnt Smell
Unplugged the Range and removed the two screws holding down the cook top. You do not need to remove the vent chamber at the rear of the range since the top lifts up about 4 inches. This should be enough room to get your hand onto the plug going to the door switch. Pull off the plug and remove the swich. Pop in the new one, put on the plug, reinstall the two screws and you are done!

Read the thread on "burnt smell" and DO NOT assume it is a burned out element. Follow your nose!!
Parts Used:
SWITCH SPDT HIGH AMP
  • Eugene from Hilton Head, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
8 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the JMP28BA1WH
31 - 45 of 240