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One control knob igniter switch not working.
First take picture of cooktop. Go below cooktop and unplug electrical and turn off gas valve. Set burner greats aside along with bummer caps. Pull control knobs straight up and off, and set aside. Use 15 torque driver and remove two torque screws from each burner bases. Pull each white igniter up while holding the burner base in place. There is a wire attached to each igniter, separate the wire from the igniter and set aside. Once all igniters are removed, carefully remove all burner bases and set aside. Now lift top cover off. As you’re lifting the cover careful of the igniter wires. Now take another picture to refer to when installing new igniter harness. Notice where the harness plugs in and use pliers to remove the two plug connections from the igniter module. Then remove the rest of the harness from the top of the gas valves. Vacuum debris and clean up tray. Your last photo will be handy, refer to when installing igniter harness. Orient. All burner igniter switches the same on each gas valve. Check for wire clearance on wire harness. Reinstall top, guide igniter wires up through top, relocate burner bases in correct locations. Start all torque screws, leave loose until all igniters are reconnected and placed back down in there holes. Then tighten all torque screws. Reinstall burner caps, control knobs, and greats. Go underneath and plug in power cord and turn gas valve on. Check all burners for correct operation.
We bought a new G.E. Stainless cooktop from Home Depot on Clearance with the Head Burner D missing.
As soon as we got home we looked up your website to order a new Head Burner D.
The new cooktop was going to be used on a center Island and I could not figure out a way to vent the cooktop, so I took it back to Home Depot for a refund, and I returned the head burner D back to you.
I do appreciate your service very much, and I am sure that we will have the opportunity to do business again.
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
Got ignitor and it did not have wire attached as shown in the picture of parts. However, all I did was take burner cap off, and gently life ignitor up and out, detach the wire, attach new ignitor to wire and reset.
Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.
Gas Cooktop would not stop sparking - also one burner would not ignite electrically.
Shut off the gas and electric. Remove all the burner grates, burner caps, and burner valve knobs. Unscrew the two star screws holding down each burner base (an electric driver makes this quick and easy, but final tightening should be done by hand on reassembly). Carefully pry with a flat screwdriver each burner base assembly off the maintop assembly, being careful not to damage the spark igniters or burner gaskets. Carefully remove the electrical leads from each spark igniter, using pliers if necessary, and place the burner bases aside. Once all the burner bases have been removed, the maintop assembly can be raised off of the bottom burn box and set aside. Remove the top sheet of foil backed insulation foam from the burn box. Remove the old switch and harness assembly and disconnect black and white electrical leads. Using the diagram provided in the replacement part bag, install the new switch and harness assembly (it is not the same as the one being replaced, so you will need to follow the instructions). Reverse the above steps to re-assemble.
Overall this was a very quick and easy fix for the problem of constant sparking, it took about 30 minutes, and now my cooktop works like new, saving lots of $$$$ avoiding a replacement.