JGD8130ADS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

I took a jewelers screwdriver and completely cleaned out what was left of the old pads. Then applied a small amount of heat resistant rtv sealant to each hole, slid in the new pads and wiped off the excess. I let everything set overnight. The next day everything was solid. Job was complete. Note I've done this before and did not get the results I did this time. I believe it was the instruction that came with the pads and the tip-off to use the rtv. Thank you PartSelect T.Garr

This is the second burner head I have replaced. It was easier than the first time but the burner head I received did not have the screw holes to reattach the gas tube to the burner head. I was able to drill my own without too much trouble using a standard bit and electric drill. I used the old burner head to determine what size drill bit to use. Even so, it was still an easy fix.

undid about 7 screws to get access to underside of burner, unscrewed 4 screws that held on gas feed pipe and ignitor. twisted out old burner and gently removed ignitor from burner. cleanded up area where burner was and installed new one. took a little bit of tweeking to reinsert ignitor but did slide in nicely. reattached gas pipe and all screws. slide burner case back into position. turned on and worked nicely.

Take your time and remove items carefully and replace with new items. Very easy but you definately cant rush and possibly need new screws to make it even easier.

Old filter allowed too much air flow causing exhaust fan to go off....installed new filter in exhaust chamber...release clip on old filter and install new filter (at an angle) in the exhaust box....clamp down clip on edge of filter and job is complete

Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

Used strap wrench to turn out. Rust build up under the burner. Used flat screwdriver to loosen under burner and strap wrench to turn out. Then replaceing the igniter was very easy.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!