Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
ice maker quit
For this repair, the following YouTube video was most helpful in showing how to remove the ice maker from the refrigerator model that I have: for some reason this site has deleted my video cite but it is the YouTube video cite that ends in 7HHH03SFdCA Next, because the electrical wiring harness part has changed since production, and the new ice maker part comes with two different harness' (you have to determine which one is most similar to the harness that you remove), take a lot of pictures of the old wiring harness before removing it. There are a lot of different wires that need to be reconnected. There was a prior post by "Greg from Aliso Viejo, CA" that I printed out and followed--that post was also very helpful.
Control noisy when opening and closing removed damper housing
Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.
Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.
watched diagnosis and repair videos online, assessed problem, order part and replaced ice maker. was not expecting to replace wiring harness but got it done and icemaker is working just fine.
Took a putty knife and Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place
FROST, ICE buildup along and inside the bottom of freezer and door
Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.
Pulled the whole assembly out and unscrewed the Ice maker and old wire harness loose. pulled one wire at a time loose and put the new one in place one wire at a time so not to get them wrong. Then the ground wire I cut and stripped and used a wire nut to connect the two green wires together. Otherwise you would have to take more things off to get to the 1/4 nut on the ground wire. Then put the three screws back in the ice maker bottom.Slid it back in place and plugged in the new wire harness. And put the plastic cover back in place to cover the wires. You can also look on U-Tube to see how it is done. They just do not show the new harness I was sent. I guess the ice maker I got fit other models.
you tube video was most helpful. after getting new part and disassembling old ice maker, you have to change out the wiring harness. Reinstall ice maker, don't worry about the timing of the unit as it will do this itself, may take 10 hours to produce ice, mine took about 2 hours to go through its' cycles and give me ice. It is running great
Fresh Food Compartment occasionally going down to 28-30 degrees F
Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)
Seal would not stay on, letting cold air out of ice maker - did not make ice.
The old plactic ring can be removed with flat bladed screw driver, starting on the right side prying it up worked best for me. The new seal snaps in only one way take your time to get it wright.