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leaking water onto floor
replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.
The frost free drain behind the freezer compartment clogged and water collected in the bottom of the freezer and eventually came out the door on the right front of the refrigerator.
The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.
Unlug refrig or turn off refrig from its control panel On/OFF switch. For ease of work remove freezer shelve directly below the ice maker. Remove four screws from the bottom of the ice maker assembly, three that secure the ice maker and the other that holds a plastice shroud in place over the ice maker's power plug. The ice maker is now ready to be removed; it will slide forward by pushing up on left and right side of the ice maker's mounting slide rails. Once the ice maker is moved forward it is easier to disconnect its power plug (depress a locking tab on the side of the connector and pull connector apart and remove ice maker assembly. Remove and replace motor module by removing three screws and and replace with new unit. Reverse ice maker removal proceure for installation. Once installation is completed turn on Power to Refrig, Ice making should begin after a few hours.
The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings: 1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator. 2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track. 3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker. 4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module. 5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut. 6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.
The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.
First, make sure you have the correct part. I had trouble with mine, at first, until I realized that I had received the wrong part... it was same shape but larger. To begin, remove both fruit/vegetable drawers. Remove deli drawer. Remove deli drawer glass panel with both supports. Remove 3, 1/4" hex screws that attach end-cap. Disengage temp control slide and arm from end-cap by carefully moving parts in the direction where they will disengage. Remove temp control slide from end-cap. Now that end-cap is out, remove 2 screws that hold metal drawer slide to end-cap. Attach drawer slide to new end-cap. Attach temp contol slide and connect the plastic arm. Attach end-cap to refrigerator. Replace glass shelf, supports and drawers. Done.
Once I realized the High voltage Board was bad I ordered the new High voltage board from Parts Select, the part was in stock and was delivered to my house in two days, I opened the box, and the instructions were very clear how to install the new high voltage board and program the board with the code for my refrigerator. There are also videos on You Tube on how to program the code on the refrigerator in case you have difficulty. In all, the problem was fixed and the refrigerator was up and running. Thank You Parts Select.
The peg on the door broke off the left end cap. This seems to be a bad design on the part of amana. It's happened twice now. Very fragile. The repair was so easy that my wife tackled it while I was at work because I was too busy to do it. She said the only problem was removing all the trays, shelves, and drawers out of the fridge and putting that back together which is a bit cumbersome and tricky. The actual part removal and replacement is straight forward once the other stuff is removed to get to the screws that are holding the end cap on. When I did it for the right end cap it was a bit more challenging because there were more parts that had to come off and go back on. I am happy that this can be easily repaired, but not happy with amana that the sliding drawer and door are so susceptible to breakage at the two pegs. This is a flaw in the design.
a small tip from the to of the cover broke off where it opens
we removed all the lower stuff,so we could get to the part. unscrewed all pieces 3 screws than removed it all in order.. than the hard part came ,when we had to figure out how to remove all the moving parts.from the back ..after a little wiggling we figured it all out and got a part...the new piece in and all back together...my husband and i did it in about 45 minutes,,,also gave us a chance to get those really hard places in the back to clean...thanks for all your help in helping me id the part.. thanks linda landsdowne
Plastic axle piece breaks off on left side of door to slide out drawer under crispers
Remove crispers & bottom drawer. Removed glass piece. Unscrewed piece( small nuts not screw heads) There is also a nubbie at front. You must remove by sliding out & lifting back of part. Reuse screws to replace piece & drawer runner. It took 15 to 20 minutes. I am all thumbs. If I can do anyone can do!
It is as easy as is shown in the self-help video. (1) Disconnect the power, (2) Roll the appliance out so you can get to the back, (3) Using a nut driver remove all the screws from the lower back panel then remove the panel, (4) Remove the tensioner wire, (5) unplug the electrical connection to the capacitor, (6) gently but firmly remove the capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (7) preassemble your new capacitor and starter relay as one unit, (8) now simply reverse your steps for installing and you are done! These two parts saved me the cost of a new refrigerator. Almost as easy as changing a light bulb. PS: while you have the panel removed you can do a thorough cleaning with a soft brush and vacuum.
1. Remove all drawers {3}, shelves {glass 1}, shelf support {1}. 2. Remove two {2} screws from End Cap. 3. Carefully remove End Cap and drawer temperature control part on the back wall keeping them aligned as installed. The part on the back wall swings out so that the tab on the left end of the piece may be withdrawn from the securing slot (hole). The two parts should be carefully removed while keeping the two parts at a right angle the way they are installed. The reason for this caution follows. 4. On the back side of both parts are plastic pieces that, I believe, can be easily broken if you are not aware. The pieces are connected together at the right angle. They are the control arms for the temperature control -- on right side End Cap only -- the left side doesn't have them or the rear part on the back wall. 5. The pieces must be disconnected and removed. You must examine and ponder how they are held in place and hooked together in order to disconnect and remove them without damaging them. The same advice is applicable to reinstalling the pieces in the new part -- End Cap. 6. After reassembled and keeping the two parts at a right angle, insert the tab on the left end of the back wall part into the slot (hole) and swing the two parts back into position. 7. Replace the screws. 8. Done, reinstall the shelf, shelf support, and the drawers. NOTE: I ordered the two screws but they were not needed.
